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Now it has been mentioned the hole (without the expected jiggle pin) does look large.  Without jiggle pin it will always pass water too - jiggle pin usually shuts flow off when engine is running.
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if you mean the second hole in the cast housing, it is blanked off by a flat face on the engine block.

(I imagine it's a part also used on bigger engines that use a pair of thermostats - my Dorman 110kva generator is like that with two stats to give adequate coolant flow)
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The bypass hole in the old thermostat looks huge, was the hole the same size in the new stat?  If that was bypassing too much coolant into the radiator that would keep the engine temp low.  I haven't changed THAT many thermostats, but I don't ever remember seeing one with a hole that bit.
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This really has me puzzled, I tested the old thermostat in a pan of boiling water - it resolutely stayed SHUT. So why was the engine over cooled and not overheating :scratch:

The over cooling was cured by installing a new thermostat so this defies logic - can anyone give me a logical explanation of what's happening here ?

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At long last I've got round to a job I've been putting off for months. The engine was being over cooled, the temperature guage only just came off the base line, and I strongly suspected that the thermostat had failed or maybe wasn't even fitted.

Well today has been a bit warmer and I had a free morning - so get on with it.

One part of this job I'd really not looked forward to was draining the coolant - drain plug isn't ideally placed - so I used a trick a plumber friend of mine showed me some time ago. Slacken a hose clip, ease open the joint slowly and use a Wet & Dry vac to suck the fluid as it comes out. Worked splendidly with barely a drop lost on the floor.

Once the top hose was off the thermostat housing there were six M8 bolts to undo - the usual five easy ones, and one who's flats had previously been rounded off. My Irwin bolt remover worked splendidly and the housing was mine to clean up. Scraped with a razor blade paint scraper, tickled with a rotary wire bush and the cast iron housing and flat on the block cleaned up nicely.

There WAS a stat in there, and it was closed so all very odd so why over cooling?

Anyway it all went back together - new stat, new gasket, smear of HiLoMar, and bolts torqued down. I've temporarily replaced the rounded off one with a standard hex head - originals are flange bolts. I'll order a new one when next I place an order but not worth doing as a one off as postage swamps the goods.

I was able to re-use the coolant - I had cleaned the bucket of the Wet & Dry vac carefully so I could do this as I coolant was changed when i got the machine and is beautifully clean.

 Machine set for a fast idle while I cleared up and then monitored it with the IR meter. Stat started to open at about 85 degrees and now for the first time in my ownership the temperature gauge shows sensible readings nicely at midle travel of the needle.

 . . job's a good 'un  :thumbup:
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Project Logs / Re: Centec 2A Rebuild
« Last post by Darrene on March 12, 2023, 11:16:36 AM »
I wanted to say a huge thanks to Paul for starting this post. Iím trying to strip a seized mk2 vertical head and there really is no other resource to help understand the innards, particularly now the Yahoo groups are gone.

Iím fairly sure the bearings on the shaft of mine are the cause of the seizure. Iíve removed both top and bottom caps and can see the bottom bearing as described.

I am going to need to drop the shaft out of the head, downwards as suggested.

My question is do I need to loosen the bevel gear thrust nut first at all? Should it all just press through the lower bearing shell? Best guess at the moment is that it needs pressing down until I can reach the thrust nut,undo the grub screw in it and unscrew it up the shaft as the shaft is pressed out, the nut will eventually come off inside the casing and the bevel gear can be slid off too, then the shaft pushed the rest of the way out..

Any advice would be gratefully received - Iím wary of trying to press the shaft out and causing damage but I donít see any other option

All the best
Darren
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Member Videos / Re: My week this week, my workshop videos!
« Last post by hermetic on March 11, 2023, 09:35:08 AM »
Sorry folks, no video this week, went to the workshop monday had a good tidy up and did a few little jobs, reached for the camera only to realise that the case was empty and the camera was back in Driffield on my desk! then the weather turned and was very cold and snowy and Langtoft was suddenly very far away!! Back with a vengance next week!
Phil
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Member Videos / Re: DIY adaptive soft jaws
« Last post by philf on March 10, 2023, 04:46:11 PM »
It's nice, but there seems to be a lot of vertical movement of the workpiece when the vice is tightened.  Is there a way to correct that?

It appears to be the whole moveable jaw is lifting. This design of vice is supposed to pull the moveable jaw downwards on tightening. The problem might be due to the much increased height compared with the standard vice.
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Member Videos / Re: DIY adaptive soft jaws
« Last post by efrench on March 10, 2023, 02:41:55 PM »
It's nice, but there seems to be a lot of vertical movement of the workpiece when the vice is tightened.  Is there a way to correct that?
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Member Videos / Re: DIY adaptive soft jaws
« Last post by philf on March 10, 2023, 01:36:43 PM »
I like it as well.

A pity the like button stopped working.
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