MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => How do I?? => Topic started by: 75Plus on February 14, 2010, 01:01:27 PM
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Here is a part that I am making but with much difficulty. Cutting the grooves is my problem. The slot width is 0.035" and the depth is 0.030". Currently using a Dremel rotary cutter that I thin down from approximately 0.052" to the 0.035" needed. If I am lucky I can get half a dozen parts from each cutter. Any suggestions?
BTW the corners of the recessed area have a 1/2" radius.
(http://i944.photobucket.com/albums/ad289/AlveyJoe/Baseplate.jpg)
Joe
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Better saws. Dremel accessories aren't the best quality, and aren't really made for cutting stainless. Try MSC, Enco or such for the blades.
Coolant would probably help extend the life as well.
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Joe,
Roger has a good point with better saws from the manufactures he mentioned. ANother way would be a shaper action and tool ground to do that.
Bernd
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I forgot to mention that the over all inside width is only 0.875". I just looked at the Enco catalog and see that have a 3/4" dia. X 3/64" wide Woodruff cutter that I could thin to 0.035". I will have to give that a try. These parts could help fund my hobby if I can work out the production problems.
I do use coolant with the Dremel cutter. Otherwise they will only last for a couple of pieces.
Joe
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Just a note as to how this project is going, I purchased a 3/64" (1.2mm) keyway cutter made by a US company in business since 1957. I chucked it up and, using a tool post grinder, thinned it by 0.010" leaving it 0.037" wide. It worked fine for about an hour then the saw separated from the shank. This cutter was said to be made from one piece. Upon inspection I found a 0.021" deep counter bore in the saw which was on the SHANK side. This left only 0.016" of metal to drive the saw after I thinned it. There was only about 0.025" before my modification. My question to the manufacturer was, Why the counter bore and how was it done on the shank side of the saw which was a one piece unit? I am awaiting an answer.
(http://i944.photobucket.com/albums/ad289/AlveyJoe/100_2369.jpg)
This is what I have now.
(http://i944.photobucket.com/albums/ad289/AlveyJoe/CounterBore.jpg)
This is a close-up of the counter bored saw.
Whatcha think? :med: :med:
Joe
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Joe
Just throwing this out there for what it's worth. :doh:
What would happen if you used your grinder and ground .010 off the top and about .040 back. This would give you the shape you need for the groove and not have to weaken the cutter too much in the hub area. It might also be possible to grind some other shape of cutter to give the same results. :D :D
Cheers :beer:
Don
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What is the manufacturer's name on this cutter?
Thanks
Dean
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Don,
In hind sight that would have been the way to go but, who would think that there would a counter bore around the shank. The bottom was perfectly flat. Even without my reducing the width there was not much metal connecting the saw to the shank. I don't think I will buy another one due to that design.
Dean,
Bought it from Enco. It was made by Moon Cutters in Connecticut.
I intend to try brazing the saw back on by filling the counter bore (moat) with brazing rod.
Joe
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Thank you, Joe.
Dean
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The counterbore could have been there to give a square "joint", rather than a radius, where the shank meets the cutter.
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Had a nice chat with Chuck Moon, son of the founder of the company. He explained the reason for the counterbore, to allow for cutting a relief, on the shank side. We also discussed the exact application and he suggested that I would be better served using cobalt. He also suggested that I have them make a cutter with the needed face width. I am currently awaiting a quote. Hope my old ticker can stand it.
Joe
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75.
This is all depending ending on what this part does but.. Is there anyway to fabricate this part, make it in two then bond together.
By looking at your drawing it would be easy to mill the bottom plate with the ridges then affix the top plate on. There are very strong epoxy’s on the market to bond all types of materials.
All the best Anthony.
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The part discussed here is firearms related so I opened a thread in "Backyard Ballistics" for any further discussion. I hope and believe that this is the way Eric wants to handle this subject.
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=2816.0
Joe