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How do I?? / Re: Soldering copper
« Last post by Sea.dog on Today at 05:45:34 AM »
Since I've no idea of the intended use or size of the piece, I can't say whether or not a butt might work.
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It does John but fortunately everything is being kept in the same environment. It was surprisingly significant when I was grinding the taper gauge and measuring how far it penetrated  the female taper in the chuck. Seating tapers is a funny old business, a little goes a long way, and over shooting is only too easy!

I think the major issue is to get the taper to seat leaving just a nat's thing-a-me-bob of clearance between the chuck and it's flange, so when the bolts are torqued down the taper is pulled well home. The internal mating faces where the hydraulic ports join is marginally less critical due to the aforementioned O rings giving a bit of tolerance.

I'm pleased to say with the larger taper of the 'adaptor to lathe spindle interface', once bolted up, and then unbolted, it took a few persuasive blows from a large rubber dead blow hammer to unseat it  and it's that sort of fit I want to achieve with the 'adaptor to collet chuck interface'
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Andrew, with this high accuracy that you are working to does temperature of the mating items become important?
No doubt you have this in mind but I've not seen temperature mentioned in this discussion.

John
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How do I?? / Re: Soldering copper
« Last post by awemawson on Today at 02:38:03 AM »
Itís all about surface area of the joint.

Conventionally copper ware joints would be castellated like a box joint if laps or folds werenít possible.
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How do I?? / Re: Soldering copper
« Last post by Mike K on June 24, 2021, 06:37:20 PM »
Oh, I was just going to do 90* butt joints.  No good?  I don't have a sheet metal brake.
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New from Old / Re: The Sequel - Oh Blimey I bought a CNC Lathe (Beaver TC 20)
« Last post by awemawson on June 24, 2021, 04:47:48 PM »
I have to get three features to all come together at the same time. The male and female taper, the adaptor to spindle flange (with perhaps a few tens of microns gap to pull the taper firmly together ) and the inner face where the hydraulic ports are. Again these can have the odd tens of microns gap as there are O rings squashed here to seal the ports.
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New from Old / Re: The Sequel - Oh Blimey I bought a CNC Lathe (Beaver TC 20)
« Last post by nrml on June 24, 2021, 04:15:10 PM »
Ahh. I learnt something new there. I always believed that it was the taper that was the important bit and that the undercut was just relief to ensure it sits flush.
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New from Old / Re: The Sequel - Oh Blimey I bought a CNC Lathe (Beaver TC 20)
« Last post by awemawson on June 24, 2021, 04:10:44 PM »
Thanks for the suggestion.

The face where the under cut should be has to contact the relevant bit of the chuck absolutely and precisely when the tapers close together.

As the taper wont close without the under cut I cannot be sure the sizes are right, and dismounting it would be counter productive concentricity wise,

I had already thought that I could 'half machine' the taper, mount it on the manual lathe for undercutting, remount it on the CNC and finish the taper but it's fraught with introduced inaccuracies

 . . . .it's all a  blooming palaver !
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New from Old / Re: The Sequel - Oh Blimey I bought a CNC Lathe (Beaver TC 20)
« Last post by nrml on June 24, 2021, 03:17:27 PM »
Can't you do the undercut on the manual lathe at the end? It shouldn't affect the mating of the chuck to the adapter.
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How do I?? / Re: Soldering copper
« Last post by Sea.dog on June 24, 2021, 11:46:50 AM »
If that's all that you have, then use it. Soft solder will be fine and need a lot less heat. Make sure that you use lap joints or, if you've enough metal, folded lap joints.
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