MadModder

The Shop => Our Shop => Topic started by: BK on November 07, 2010, 04:51:31 PM

Title: Mill
Post by: BK on November 07, 2010, 04:51:31 PM
I just bought myself a mill, it's a Hafco HM 30 (ya China) 3 yrs old and done little work.

(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t184/oldcranker/100_3595.jpg)

It came with a LOT of extras like a 12" rotary table.

(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t184/oldcranker/100_3596.jpg)

5" HD swivel vice

(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t184/oldcranker/100_3597.jpg)

3 1/2" tilting vice

(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t184/oldcranker/100_3598.jpg)

2 sets of holddowns.


(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t184/oldcranker/100_3600.jpg)

A set of collets and end mills plus a 70mm flycutter

(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t184/oldcranker/100_3601.jpg)

Plus a box of Alum billets

(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t184/oldcranker/100_3599.jpg)

I'm happy with my "haul" to buy the extras new would cost more then I paid for the whole lot.  :D
Title: Re: Mill
Post by: BillTodd on November 07, 2010, 05:12:10 PM
Nice haul :)

They're actually very useful machines - my one is a Taiwanese NuTool version. It was knackered when I got it so have been modifying it at every opportunity (see http://billtodd.dyndns.org/drillmill)

Bill
Title: Re: Mill
Post by: Brass_Machine on November 07, 2010, 05:33:54 PM
Nice haul!

Eric
Title: Re: Mill
Post by: Jonny on November 07, 2010, 08:46:26 PM
Good buy i thinks thats known as the RF30 over here, i have the equivalent of the RF25 doing very little.
Leadscrew nuts are a bit naff mine broke within two years so did the motor mid job.
The only thing that spoils them is the round column.
Title: Re: Mill
Post by: Stilldrillin on November 08, 2010, 02:26:59 AM
Bernie.
That's a great starter pack. Yer off to a flier there!   :clap:

BIG learning curve ahead........ Enjoy!  :thumbup:

David D
Title: Re: Mill
Post by: BK on November 08, 2010, 03:53:34 AM
Hi David, been 2 days setting it up but this arvo I made chips.  :)
It seems a very solid machine (very big too), just a matter of working out speeds, how to hold work down, how to, how to , how to, how to, :bugeye:  :jaw:  :lol:  :bang:
Title: Re: Mill
Post by: Stilldrillin on November 08, 2010, 04:06:21 AM
Bernie.
If yer don't already know.......

Find out what climb milling is, and DON'T DO IT!  :bugeye:

     :thumbup:

David D
Title: Re: Mill
Post by: Pete49 on November 08, 2010, 05:44:38 AM
nice haul though that ali is dangerous to your health so being old and caring send it to me and I will dispose of it for you
cheers
Pete
Title: Re: Mill
Post by: BK on November 08, 2010, 06:22:34 AM
Bernie.
If yer don't already know.......

Find out what climb milling is, and DON'T DO IT!  :bugeye:

     :thumbup:

David D

Yep, my younger brother has an old mill, been told thanks David.
Title: Re: Mill
Post by: BillTodd on November 08, 2010, 07:11:42 AM
Bernie.
If yer don't already know.......

Find out what climb milling is, and DON'T DO IT!  :bugeye:

     :thumbup:

David D

Actually, if you sort the nuts out and clamp the head tight, the machine is just about rigid enough to cope with light cuts.

As a quick fix, I cut the nuts across the split, faced the cut ends and reassembled thus...

Title: Re: Mill
Post by: Bogstandard on November 13, 2010, 10:58:56 AM
Be very careful with the quill on these machines. It WILL drop when you least expect it and take a gouge out of your job.

Make sure it is physically pushed DOWN before you tighten up the quill lock, and this needs to be done between cuts.

There are a few mods about to cure this problem, and they usually concern a weight and a pulley to counteract the weight of the quill, so effectively pulling it UP all the time.

Just be careful.


Bogs
Title: Re: Mill
Post by: Rob.Wilson on November 13, 2010, 02:20:37 PM
As Bogs has pointed out the quill dose drop on these machines ,giving a poor finish when boring and worse if you are doing an intermittent cut ,say cutting a radius on cylinder saddle using a boring head and down feeding the quill.
The cutter will move up as it comes in contact with the work and drop as it leaves  :bang:

So the quill needs to be loaded up so that it is always in contact with the quill feed pinion.
Mods done to my RF25 MILL/DRILL ,,,spring attached to collar  on quill ,fed up through the head casting and secured to the belt guard ..  Sorted .
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1020762.jpg)
(http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1020763.jpg)

Got rid of the two nuts that lock the head , fitted two levers ,,,Replaced the small lever that locks the belt tensioner with a T bar ,,, and fitted lever to motor mount plate to make belt tensioning easier.
 (http://www.nam-engineering.com/cm/albums/userpics/10002/normal_P1020761.jpg)


Rob
Title: Re: Mill
Post by: Bogstandard on November 13, 2010, 02:43:07 PM
I haven't seen it done that way Rob, nice one.

I forgot to mention in my last post, if you do such a mod as Rob has done, there is no need to do what I said in the first part, about making sure the quill was fully down.


Bogs
Title: Re: Mill
Post by: Jonny on November 13, 2010, 07:16:42 PM
Its been 6 years since ive used mine but i cannot honestly recall seeing the quill drop in over 4 years.
Reason i always put tension on with the quill lock when winding the Z feed. If a heavy cut i will tighten up the quill before putting a cut on.