MadModder
The Shop => Tools => Topic started by: raynerd on May 20, 2009, 12:58:22 PM
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I went out for lunch a few days ago with the guys from work and I was chatting about my machining - a guy comes up to me at the end and says I have a lathe sat at the back of my garage, it was his brothers and has lots of tooling with it. He said, if I wanted it, it was mine - he would be glad to get it out of the way. Anyway, I want to visit yesterday and it turns out it a Box-ford Model "A" lathe - looks in great shape for the age. I have taken home all the tooling (I`ll post a message later to show what came with it) and I am picking the lathe up on Friday night. The timing couldn`t have been better after stomping out of the workshop in a temper a few nights ago after blowing 5 uses on my clarke cl300m stalling it trying to screw cut 12TPI in mild steel! This bigger lathe should really help me along - and the little n` is just primed for CNC`ing :)
I`ll keep you posted with some pics later on - just needed to get the excitement off my chest!!
Chris
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Nice, i wouldn't say no to one of those either....good score :thumbup:
http://www.lathes.co.uk/boxford/page2.html
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stalling it trying to screw cut 12TPI in mild steel
If you remember Chris, I said that really those lower TPI's would be pushing your lathe to the limits. You are lucky to get away with fuses, it could have been a lot worse.
Congrats on the Boxford, they are nearly bombproof, even for you.
John
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Boxfords rock :headbang:
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b28/CrewCab53/Metalwork/boxfordall.jpg)
:beer:
and as Bogsie says, virtually bombproof :thumbup:
CC
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Chris, timing is everything, :D right time right place. :ddb: :D :ddb: :ddb: Congrats.
Cliff :beer:
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Nice find Chris Boxfords are the bis :thumbup:
Stew
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John, yes your correct and understand how the hand turning will reduce the pressure on the gearing.
Can`t wait to get the boxford at home - seems in good condition as well for the age.
Crew-Cabin - mine looks similar to that but the gearing box is switched around, so the A,B,C, D select is on the left and the table with the screw TPI is on the right.
Anyway - found a few minutes to open up all the boxes that contained the tooling with this lathe - I don`t know what half of it is, so if anyone would like to enlighten me, I would be very grateful!!
This picture shows the accessories that came with the lathe - why is such a wide range of jaws needed? Also what is the part to the bottom left with the gear on one end and a dial on the other? I guess the long flat one is a tool rest?
(http://www.raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/boxford1.jpg)
This is all the tooling:
(http://www.raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/boxford10.jpg)
Are these just drills? the one on the left is massive!!
(http://www.raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/boxford3.jpg)
end mills?
(http://www.raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/boxford4.jpg)
Taps and dies - now all the other bits look clean and like new but these are really rusty - can they be cleaned up, they feel sharp just have surface rust, or are they only fit for the bin?
(http://www.raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/boxford5.jpg)
Reamers and a few end-mills?
(http://www.raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/boxford6.jpg)
Top box is full of watch makers small tools - reamers, drills, tiny collets. Bottom box is full of what looks like tiny cutters for the lathe - I am unsure how they would be used?
(http://www.raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/boxford7.jpg)
???
(http://www.raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/boxford8.jpg)
The rest of the bits that also came - spanners, allan keys ...and also many unidentified tools
(http://www.raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/boxford9.jpg)
Sorry, lots of pics but if you can identify or give advice then it would be appreciated. Also, please tell me if this is too old and fit for the bin - does tooling wear? Te majority is properly stamped and marked made in England so guess it is good quality.
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Chris, I hate to be the one to break it to you but I think you have had a load of old rubbish unloaded on you, probably the best thing you could do would be to pack it all up and send it over (down?) to me for safe disposal! :med:
The thingio with the dial and the little gear is thread cutting indexer, it fits on the lathe carriage and allows you to return the carriage and to accurately regain you starting point when taking a second cut on a thread. Rather a mystery that apparently all lathe users master one day.
The chuch with two sets of jaws has one set for outside holding of small pieces and one set of inside holding of bigger bits, wheels for example.
I guess the tool rest would be for turning wood or soft materials with hand held tools.
I think those rusy bits will be OK, maybe not a 'nice' as shiny ones but serviceable all the same.
Congrats. Everyone is green with envy! :thumbup:
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Chris thats all good stuff :thumbup:
All tools have the potential to be useful sometime to someone just store it away, if you can't use it you can pass it onto to someone who can. :nrocks:
Stew
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Thanks John for the info regarding the screw cutting gear.
""I hate to be the one to break it to you but I think you have had a load of old rubbish unloaded on you" - I take it that was a joke or is it really junk?? :(
A few thoughts, I wonder what he was using the end mills for as apparently he didn`t have any more machinary when his garage was cleared! Can you get a mill post or vertical slide for these laths?
In the first image, what is at the top - it looks like a tail stock but the lathe definately has a tail stock already there.
Chris
PS EDIT: you know the picture "Reamers and a few end-mills?" is that correct, are they reamers and end-mills? Only the ones on the left are huge - 25-30cm - I should have put a rule next to them. This guy must have been doing some heavy drilling!!
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""I hate to be the one to break it to you but I think you have had a load of old rubbish unloaded on you" - I take it that was a joke or is it really junk?? :(
It was a joke.... :thumbup:
You have done really, really, really well, that little lot would have cost a small fortune to get together separately...
Too many pic's in one hit, try putting one at a time with your questions and then allowing some time before putting another pic up........that way we can all take a breath between explanations :)
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Chris, that's just a brilliant result, and to be fair on the open market worth quite a bit ........... however that's :offtopic:
I suspect your machine is imperial, the gear selector was reversed for the metric machine's (like mine) and generally, only imperial machine's have a tdi (thread dial indicator) .......... well the metric one's have 2 or 3 gears on the bottom and are about as common as "Rocking Horse Droppings" (btw if you ever "drop" on one at a fair price ......... it's mine :whip: )AFAIK mine was built around 1971, I have a list somewhere and I'll try dig it out, if you have a scrabble around the tailstock end of the bed you should find a serial number, and from that we can probably date it, not that it's important but just because we can :clap:
The "Haul" you've got with it is probably worth as much as the lathe, so take your time and sort it carefully ............... most of all ........... enjoy :beer:
as for the unidentifiable bits n' bobs, ............ just wait for Bogs and JS to pop in ........... that'll sort it :bow:
atb
CC
PS: Boxford Lathe's are a brilliant bit of kit :headbang:
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lol - thanks for the info!
Perhaps I should remove the photos :D but hey ho...I thought :worthless: and just posted the whole lot!
I look forward to picking up the lathe on Friday but I am going to step back from it, clean and set it up. Take my time and learn to use it properly - things are moving a little fast!
Chris
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Sorry Chris, that's not what I meant,
I was just thinking that if you were to re-submit one picture at a time it might be easier for everyone to try to describe what is in it and for us all to be taking about the same items instead of becoming confused.
It was just a thought.... :med:
Still think you have done very well.... :clap:
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Thanks John for the info regarding the screw cutting gear.
""I hate to be the one to break it to you but I think you have had a load of old rubbish unloaded on you" - I take it that was a joke or is it really junk?? :(
Ooops! Yes I was joking! I would love to have such a handy range of bits and of course the lathe looks great too!
A few thoughts, I wonder what he was using the end mills for as apparently he didn`t have any more machinary when his garage was cleared! Can you get a mill post or vertical slide for these laths?
Maybe they were just bits that came his way and being a bone fide home machinist he put them into safe keeping until someone could use them. I am sure you can get something or other to use for milling in the lathe, I am currently considering a few options myself while at the same time saving for a real mill.
In the first image, what is at the top - it looks like a tail stock but the lathe definately has a tail stock already there.
Sure looks like a tail stock to me, maybe it was just another 'something' he came upon and put in a safe place!
John
a.k.a. The Artful Bodger
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Chris this site may be of use
http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/BOXFORD_LATHE_USERS_NEW1.html
Stew
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Stew - thanks for the link - v useful.
Well I picked up the lathe this evening and boy was it hard work to shift - this cast iron isn`t light stuff :bugeye: I have to go back for the boxford bench later next week.
The serial number as shown on the plaque under the boxford logo is: 2473 A 423
The serial number as shown on the bed is: DEH 3656/A423/247
If anyone can confirm the date or exact model using those serials do let me know - I`m interested to know more about the lathes history.
(http://www.caliken.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/boxy1.JPG)
(http://www.caliken.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/boxy2.JPG)
(http://www.caliken.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/boxy3.JPG)
(http://www.caliken.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/boxy4.JPG)
Much to my delight, he revealed this little beauty to me as well - apparently he forgot to give it me last night when I picked up the tools:
(http://www.caliken.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/boxy5.JPG)
.....a vertical slide - i.e milling attachment, right?
I`m so excited to use it, seems to be in great condition and as of yet I haven`t come across anything obvious that seems not be in the right place or missing, well anything except:
(http://www.caliken.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/boxy6.JPG)
Yup - the wiring is, as they say, "buggered". I would appreciate any advice - motors and power supplys are not my strong point! I have taken a few pictures to help - obviously that three core wire has come lose from the plug socket but starting from the motor, there seems to be three wires:
(http://www.caliken.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/boxy7.JPG)
these three wires go up to the switch located at the front of the machine:
(http://www.caliken.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/boxy8.JPG)
And then from there, these two bare wires are left exposed!! The picture shows the three wires go up to the switch and then a further two "bare" wires coming down back from the switch:
(http://www.caliken.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/boxy9.JPG)
Anyone any idea about how this could be wired or how I sort this all out? Even if the two bare wires were for the plug - where does the earth go? I keep saying I`m taking my time and safety first etc etc... but I must admit, I`m itching to get this running and just see how it runs!
Hope you like my setup, not bad for a freebie! It is all the little extra`s that have just blown me away - all the tooling, the chucks, face plates and then to top it off, a vertical slide! Christmas has most definately come early - infact it feels like the next 10 rolled into one!!! :ddb: :ddb:
Chris
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The serial numbers suggest it dates from around 1951/52 and looking at the pictures that's probably about right ............ nice looking machine :headbang:
as for the wiring ........... if you are not 110% competent to wire it up then please leave it alone and call in a professional, there are some times in life when being economical can severely affect your health, and electrickery takes no prisoners if you get it wrong.
The vertical slide is one heck of a bonus btw :beer: .............. considering your recent luck would you be so good as to PM me a suggestion for the lottery numbers for tomorrow ::)
atb :thumbup:
CC
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CC - thanks for your info!
Regarding the wiring - my problem would be that I wouldn`t know who to take it to - I mean even if I could strip off the motor, which itself is big job due to its weight, it is the fact that the switch is located on the the lathe front, so couldn`t be taken to someone complete anyway. Even if I called someone in, I doubt they would be willing to crawl in through a hatch and work in a 4" high space (i`m under the kitchen while the basement/workshop is being built!!) I totally agree though, I guess it should be done by a pro but I don`t know who?!
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Is it 240v or three phase .......... your picture of a 13amp plug suggest 240v, but, are all the wires within the machine the same colour :scratch:
Taking off the motor is pretty straightforward to be fair, but ........ I'm assuming it's an UnderDrive model :med:
Dave
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Hey CC - someone has been very organised and stuck a sticker on the plug which says "LATHE" - so that clarifies that it has been used to run the lathe at some point. The two bare wires from the switch are not colour coded! :S any other ideas - and if there are only two wires coming from the switch - where does the third, presumably earth connect to?
Chris
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The wiring looks very dodgy to me and personally I would strip it all out and start again with some quality/safe wiring.
I don't believe anyone should/could tell you how to do it, mainly because from here it's almost impossible to tell how it's been wired.
BUT, from what I can see, it's single phase with a two way switch for reverse. Pretty simple to wire up.
Please do get rid of that old wire and put some proper stuff in. Looks like lamp wire, or worse bell wire.
That vertical slide is a cheap and very nasty cross slide, bin it, it's no good to man nor beast unless you are going to tame the dog by throwing it at him.
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A 3PH motor would have 4 wires. Is there a plate on the motor? Since there is a F/R switch it seems to be a reversable motor.
Assuming single phase the 3 wires are 2 power and 1 ground. In the US the colors would be white, black, and green for the ground. I assume UK has different standards. It seems likely that the motor is grounded to the frame within the switch, but not extended to the power cable, hence only two wires out of the switch. You could verify this with a voltmeter (see if there is conductivity).
Regardless, I would recommend that all the wiring be replaced from the motor connection box outward. The connection box will likely have the motor wires with label tabs, and those wire will be connected to the switch wires with wire nuts. For replacement wiring I'd go with 12ga wire.
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Chris, yes, please get rid of those wires! Get some new switches too. You may be able to get a forward/reverse on/off combined or the job could be done with two switches.
Assuming this is a single phase motor, which it surely would be if that appliance plug belongs to it.......
A single phase motor is usually reversed by reversing the connections to the start windings, some motors have those connections labelled, some dont, and some need a little modification if the motor was not originally intended for reversing. Whatever, it really is a job for someone who knows but it is not a difficult job for them.
If you want to save some money and get some joy from participation in the "project" you might like to make up a nice little switch box and mount the two switches, you need a single pole (for the on/off) and a "double pole, double throw" for the reverse. I suggest get the switches, which of course MUST be mains rated, make the box and show everything to your electrician friend, if he approves the choice of switch you could then mount them and he will make the connections and check it out for safety.
I see your photographs show a carriage stop with a rod going behind the switch! Could this be a home brewed limit switch? In which case you might like to get your electrician friend to judge if it is a function you can retain.
John
The Artful Bodger
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Very nice lathe you have now Chris, a real gem that will last you a lifetime, but as always, I come bearing bad tidings.
The vertical slide, isn't. That is just a very cheap cross slide vice, that you might be able to use on a drill press, but nothing else. I think we had a discussion about them a while back. They are a good source for raw materials.
Take everyones advice and get your new lathe rewired correctly and to the latest regulations by a professional. It might cost a few squid for the correct cableing, protective conduit plus switches, but at least you will know it is safe to use. :zap:
Unless you are up to professional standards, don't even consider doing it yourself. You have too much to lose, and that doesn't mean cash.
You only get one chance at this life, think of what would happen if you weren't here. Someone else would soon snatch your new found toy away for themselves.
John
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No one like that X,Y slide do they! :lol:
I have seen worse and I think I would gladly swap that one for mine which cruddy though it is its not too bad for its intended purpose on the table of the drill press. It is a pity they made the gibs from lids of sardine cans as I think some attention there would make it a much better device.
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Hi Guys
Thanks for the info - I totally agree that this should be done properly to avoid :zap: A lot of you talked about two switched and if you look in the poto there are two switches - a big silver switch and then a switch at the side labeled forward - reverse.
Unfortunately like I said earlier, I have friends in many professions but not in electrics :doh:
I really don`t think I can expect an electrician to squeeze under and work in the lathes current position - I`m going to have to try and detach the motor and remove the wiring and switch. Do you think this would be a sensible move - detaching the motor and switches and then I can take it to someone for a look rather than asking them to try and mess around in the current position.
Regarding the home made carriage stop - it does thread behind the switch but doesn`t intefer with it at all - it is just a small di. iron bar that can be clamped up at various positions to stop the carriage - it doesn`t effect the electronics.
Chris
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I think that is a good idea Chris, detach the motor, give it a clean if necessary and take it to someone, explain what it is for and maybe take a few pictures. He will know how to wire it to some sort of box which you can attach to the machine.
There will be switches that combine both the off/on and the reverse/forward but there is no technical reason I know of that would stop you/him (the electrician) using two switches of quite common types.
John
The Artful Bodger.
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An electrician might not want to know if you remove parts and take it to him...
It's all down to earth bonding and rcd/mcb regs, no electrician worth his salt would do half a job...
Sorry Chris but you may have to bite the bullet on this one.
When you think what you have had for free you can't really complain..... :)
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Darren, what do you mean by "Sorry Chris but you may have to bite the bullet on this one." ? Sorry, just not with you, do you mean get an electrician in or have to sort it out myself?
Chris
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Craynerd,
Darren probably meant that you need to have the electrician go to the machine and look it over. Then he can decide what needs to be done safely and correctly to rewire your machine. If it is not grounded correctly, you or whoever touches it will be the ground. That is not a pleasant experience, and one that you don't always survive. More people get killed in home electrical accidents every year than you would think.
I work closely with electricians all of the time in an industrial setting. Whenever I try to explain what I want to do at home, they get a glazed look in their eyes. Then they start giving an explanation after about 100 questions.
Be careful and enjoy that great find.
Regards,
Fred
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Ummmmmm, it is not the lathe that has to be grounded, it is the motor that has to be grounded and also the control box if it is of conductive material.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3385/3557874520_b4820e7ed7.jpg)
Show this diagram to an electrician and see what he says.
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And the Lathe is you want to do it by the regs John.
It's called earth bonding, been a requirement for decades :thumbup:
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Chris, I meant that you should find someone qualified. Electricity is not something to play with unless you have a good understanding of what is required to keep others around you safe.
You can kill yourself, but killing someone else will give you far more grief... :thumbup:
Electricians are easy to find, just pick up the book, ring one and get him round for a quote. Chances are he'll find it a little different to his normal work resulting in a bit of interest.
As they say, a change is as good as a rest... :ddb:
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And the Lathe is you want to do it by the regs John.
It's called earth bonding, been a requirement for decades :thumbup:
Same as an earth ground?
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I'm not familiar with the terminology or requirements in the US so it's difficult to comment.
In the UK, earth, ground and neutral are all the same thing, though used differently. That is don't go connecting them to the same point locally.
The reason you need to earth the lathe itself, and indeed the cabinet it sits on, is in case a live wire for the motor or switches breaks through its insulation and touches the lathe itself. Without an earth of some description you would provide a nice path when you next touched the machine.
Not nice :zap:
With the machine properly earthed the fuse would blow instantly.
So it it important to earth any equipment including any steel benches etc in you workshop.
It may just prevent you or somebody else from dying :med:
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I would like to point out that in the UK many areas of altering electrics in the home is now illegal by unqualified persons.
Some things you can do for yourself, but some you most certainly can't.
Be warned, get it wrong and the consequences can be quite frightening, even prison in some cases.
I don't really know where something such as a lathe fits in here, but you can bet your life if something should happen you'll have broken the law.
Just get someone qualified in, you'll also then get a cert of compliance to cover you and your house insurance.
But please, do not find a "mate" and twist his arm. The risk is just too great these days.
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Chris
If you want to de-rust your taps dies etc. try this ..
http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoepp/electrolyticrust.html
I have used the same process in the past, if you want to reduce the current, put a 12V/21W car indicator lamp in series with the electrodes.
Works the same, just takes longer .. if it's fizzin' it's workin' ..
Leave as long as you like, it won't remove metal, unless you have it the wrong way round.
But it don't put metal back unfortunately
Dave
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Well I was speaking to the guy who I bought it off this morning because I need to go collect the cabinet and he asked how I was finding it. I told him I hadn`t had it running because of the wiring - when I collected the cabinet he came back with me to help me unload and then hooked it up. He connected the two wires up and then earthed to the motor with a wire I hadn`t noticed - he did all this through a shut off "stop" switch that he also failed to give me in the first instance. It runs very nice - you can`t compare it to my little 7x12!
I would have been happy with this but with everything that has been said in this post - I have unplugged it and promised my wife (who has already ready this thread) that I won`t use it until I get an electrician around this week. Can`t wait to get using it.
Chris
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Hey Bluechip - you posted at the same time as I was.
I`ll be certain to give that go - working in a lab, setting up an electrolysis cell will be no problem! I`ll post my results.
Chris
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Chris
Forgot to mention .. a cute way of attaching bits to the bus bars is to use these wotsits. Put a screw/washer thro' one handle loop to connect to bar , then clip the part in .. took ages to find out what they were called. NOT Bulldog clips apparently. Only pic I could find, but obtainable from Staples or similar I suppose.
I seem to remember one source of this set up has a 'woe betide' bit about dangling copper wire in the soln. Don't remember why !! If I ever knew ::)
http://www.rapidonline.com/Office-IT/Stationery/Stationery/Foldback-clips/80013
Dave
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Could anyone advise how I should lubricate this lathe?
There looks to be two grease nipples next to the Boxford badge as shown in this picture
(http://www.caliken.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/boxy3.JPG)
Are these grease nipples? Also what should I use to lube the gearing and finally the bed?
Any help appreciated.
Chris
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For the ways I use way oil (Mobil Vactra).
On my lathe I use Mobil Heavy Medium for the headstock and gearbox, and Mobil Medium Light for the spindles. I seriously doubt you want grease anywhere other than the motor.
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I`m slowly working my way through the collection of tooling that came with the lathe and for the last few weeks I`ve been playing with the small collection of collets that came with it. I would like to keep my eye out on ebay for a larger collection of collets for this machine but I am unsure what collet type it is.
I have been doing some research and I believe the collets associated with boxford are 3C due to the 3MT. Can anyone confirm that any 3C collets I can purchase will fit my Boxford.
Chris
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Chris,
3C Collet's fit a 3C chuck ..................... Like This (http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/5C-Fixtures/5C-Collet-Chuck), OK that's a 5C but the principle is the same .............
for a 3MT spindle, 3MT Collet's would be the best bet Click Here (http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/Morse-Taper-Collets/Morse-Taper-Collets---METRIC) plus you will need a Drawbar.
CC
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CC - thanks for that. A few collets came with the lathe, there is a small disk that is inserted into the headstock and then the collets tightened with a draw bar. There isn`t a chuck so they must be 3mt collets.
Will the thread on future collets I purchase match up for the draw bar I own or not necessarly?
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Will the thread on future collets I purchase match up for the draw bar I own
Should do AFAIK :thumbup:
CC
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I`m in the process of moving my workshop to the cellar - more space, more height ect and the boxford is due a good sorting out. I`m guilty of wading in and machining right away with shear excitement but now I need a little time looking at my machines. With my cellar near completion I`m thinking of a quick change toolpost as a treat. Does anyone have any recommendations ?
Chronos and RDG both offer what looks like the same holder @ just short of £100 inc. 5 tool posts: http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/cgi-local/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2echronos%2eltd%2euk%2f&WD=quick%20change&PN=CHRONOS_2007_XMAS_OFFERS%2ehtml%23aMX90_2e#aMX90_2e
I think that the model 200 is Arc Euro tool post that fits the boxford - looks 3" and the boxford bore needs to be 5/8" = 0.625" = 15.875mm and the bore on this one is 16mm so I guess this is good enough? Has anyone any experience with this toolpost holder. I have to say, out of pure asthetics I do like the look of this one better: http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Lathe-Accessories/Model-200-Quick-Change-Tool-Post-Set-Piston-Type
Gloster tooling seem to sell the same one as Arc Euro from what I can see in their catalogue at £105
So so so... before I just randomly pick one, has anyone got any suggestions or recommendations?
Chris
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Not sure how much shipping across the pond would be, but check out http://www.cdcotools.com/index.php They have theirs on sale for $78.
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That seems like a great price - I think it has a 9" swing so do you think that the "up to 12"" QCTP they offer for $78 will be substantial enough? I may also be hit on import duty as well as postage.... hummm :med: need to think.
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I have an AXA size holder on my lathe, which has a 12" swing. AXA seems to be equivalent to the model 100, whereas the model 200 seems to be equivalent to the BXA size. BXA might be overkill for a 9" swing lathe.
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I don`t know what it is but the USA QCTP seem much better quality and cheaper! I even ordered my little mini lathe QCTP from the USA but got stung with import tax and it also took a while to arrive. I`m a bit reluctant to do it again but why do no UK suppliers sell them for ~£55 equivelent to $78!!!
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Because they can't......lots of reasons...mostly pointing towards our capitol...
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Really frustrating - seeing good quality tooling at $80 over there and inferior products here at £100 !! Doesn`t make sense :doh:
Ahh well, guess I`ll have to live with it.
Emailed cdc in the states and postage is $41 - so total would be $119 = £73 and then there is the likely posibility of import tax (£15?) :med: :med: maybe it is still worth it. Perhaps I need to look into this in more detail but would I need to purchase additional tool holders from the US as well or would other "UK available" holders fit?
Anyone got any other suggestions available from this side of the pond?
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Make your own tool holders from scrap......you could make a whole bunch of them in one go.... :dremel:
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Yes, now that is a good suggestion! Hummm....may plunge for this imported one.
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3 months after recieving this lathe I have just discovered the saddle lock nut!!!! hurray :) :) :)
Why didn`t I see this earlier :bang: :bang: I have been locking the saddle on the half nuts but there is still play, with the locking nut it totally kills it dead - excellent.
I think I need a manual, what else is on here that I don`t know about?? :med: :smart:
Chris
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Wanna list....... :lol:..............sorry couldn't resist......
I found something similar on my shaper tonight as well......still learning....of course....
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I found my lock nut on the harrison the other day too .. right on the top staring at me :lol:
It was after the post on parting that I looked for that.
Nick
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Me too. After owning my Chinese lathe for 2 years, I tried tightening up an oddly placed bolt on the saddle, which seemed to be loose, then found the saddle was immoveable :bugeye: an "undocumented feature", as the software people say when someone points out a bug in one of their programs.
I've made a new bolt with a more obvious lever handle, to remind me that it's there when needed.
Andy
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I`m glad it isn`t just me :lol: :lol:
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Hello, I`ve not spent much time tread cutting on this lathe as I tend to use my mini-lathe to do most of it. I did give it a go, I think 28TPI or something like, right when I got the lathe. Not much of a problem once I had figured it all out, worked very well.
Anyway, I tried to cut 8TPI for my current project and since the mini lathe only goes down to 12TPI I needed to use the Boxford. the project is for a Rotary table adapter to fit my boxford chuck - I needed 8TPI 1 1/2" whitworth.
I set it all up and as the stub is only a short distance I made a massive mistake, I took it too quickly and hit the end. It didn`t sound like a massive calamity, I managed to stop it almost immediately but when I took it back to take my next cut found that the gearing for the lead screw were not meshing. No, problem, I`ve obviously strained them with colliding and also on such a low thread. I unbolted the adjustable gear which can move up and down on the slot to allow correct alignment but I just can not get into a position where both mesh! I can have it meshing with the top and bottom but not together!!! :doh:
I`ve been looking at it for the last hour or so and really can`t see what else I can do. The top gear seems to be locked in position on the gear engage and forward/reverse select lever and the bottom gear is fixed in alignment with the lead screw so neither of these can be adjusted.
Any ideas or advice. I guess I must have done something else than force this gear out of position but I can`t work out what!
Any advice appreciated.
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Just to answer my own question for completion on the forum - there is also an allan nut, mine was hidden with grub, I had seen it earlier but presumed it to be holding the brack in place, it actualy allows you to swing the bracket around meshing the teeth together!
Solved....now on to cutting this thread!!
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Sorry Chris I did think of something like that but thought it was too obvious. You'll need to move this most times you change the gearing.
Pic of the thread please....
BTW, 12tpi is on the max limit for the 7x12, it wouldn't cope with an 8tpi or less as I discovered.
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Hi Darren - nothing is ever too obvious for me :lol:
Well I`ve had a go at cutting the thread and then my little one hurt herself so I had to come back indoors. It was looking OK as a thread but didn`t seem to want to engage with the chuck so overall, so far, useless!! I only have 60deg thread guages so can`t really check it, will have to work on it some more either tonight or tomorrow. I think maybe I`ve not got a big enough depth of cut but like I said, not finished yet! Certainly got a nice even thread pattern and the OD is 1.5" so can`t be too far off!! I will check the thread on my head stock spindle with the thread I`ve just cut and see if I can eyeball any differences.... anyway, will keep you posted!
Chris
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:worthless:
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Hi Nick, thanks for your interest, the thread was cut for the boxford adaptor found here:
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=2003.0
The bolt that I was looking for that allowed me to mesh my gears was this one here circled in red. It looks obvious in the photo but when I was looking at it, to me it looked as though it was holding the bracket together not allowing it to rotate :doh::
(http://www.raynerd.co.uk/images/geared.JPG)
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Chris,
:lol: Obvious to people that have seen it before!
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Another one...
My drive belt has starting screaming at me - I`m not 100% sure whether it is actually slipping just a fraction or not but it certainly is making a noise at times. It doesn`t do it with the motor just ticking over but when I put some pressure onto the tool and consquently onto the belts they really make a screetch!
Any useful tips to stop this? There is a leaver on the front of the lathe that tightens and slackens the belt for changing speeds and this is fully tight and it has only just started doing it. Could possibly be getting worse but again not had it long enough to tell properly. There is a lot of black sticky goo on the pully under the belt, should this be wiped away?
As usual, help greatly appreciated!
Chris
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Chris
Fullers Earth.
Whip the belt off, clean it with the stuff. At one time you could get it at chemists. Not any more. You could try tho. This is the first hit I got from Google.
Was universally used on leather belts on textile machines I think.
Gets all the black snot off oily belts.
http://www.fishingwithstyle.co.uk/fullersearth.htm#Buy
This is what it is ..
http://www.answers.com/topic/fuller-s-earth
Dave BC
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Bluechip - thanks for the info! I`ve also found it on fleabay so if I can`t get any from town centre today I`ll buy some online tonight. Thanks for the info and I`ll let you know how it goes!
Chris
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Chris
As far as I remember, they used to sprinkle the stuff on the belts, then leave 'em overnight.
Then just pull the belt thro' a bit of towelling or summat to get the crap off, and off you go.
You may have to do it again I suppose, if the belt is really infested.
Dave BC
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Dave, I couldn`t buy it at two local chemists so will order some online. I`ll let you know when it arrives!
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Try cat litter - you might have to pound it into a fine powder first, but it is good at absorbing oil. If begging some from a neighbour, be sure to specify "unused".
Andy
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Dave, I couldn`t buy it at two local chemists so will order some online. I`ll let you know when it arrives!
That doesn't surprise me. At one time it was used for 'nappy rash' or the likes. Probably now replaced by some wildly expensive preparation, clinically proven of course, which is bugger all else but Fullers Earth in a posh container ... ::)
Try Andy's idea. All you want is something ad(ab?) sorbent, which will clean off. Might be an idea to ensure the litter is 'cat free' before you wallop it tho.
:D
Dave BC
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Another method would be to use some "Oil Dry" or what ever it is called at your location. It is used to soak up the oil spots from concrete. Most auto supply shops stock it.
Joe
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I use sand for that :bugeye:
But maybe not for the machines eh .... :)
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Getting away from powdered remedies, a nailbrush and Swarfega or some other brand of cleaning gel for oily paws is often good for getting the gunge off. Aldi sells a gel in clear plastic pots which are useful for storing nuts, bolts etc. The top is wide enough to get your hand inside to pick the item you want .
Andy
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And I've been throwing the empty tubs away .... :doh:
Thanks for the tip :thumbup:
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I'Ve been using the lathe on and off for 6 months now in the poor state that it came but have now set aside some time to restore and fix it up. I'll post pics later but I've managed to strip it down and some things are full, and I mean full of black swarf ridden gunky greace. Big items like the saddle casting and tiny items. I feel they need a good scrub but don't want to spoil anything!! What is the best way to remove this thick gooey crud?
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Solvent and a stiff brush. White spirit, paraffin, diesel - anything that's not too aggressive. Petrol may work - but not in your basement :bugeye: (plus it might soften the paint).
Watch out for shims/washers and bits that are glued in place with the crap falling out, an exploded diagram is handy.
Whilst it's in bits check all the bits that run together for wear etc, now's a good time to make replacement bushes etc and fit new grub screws.
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Yea, I heard petrol would work but I`ll go with white spirits. Good idea regarding checking bits that are currently "stuck" in position so I know where they come from if they do fall out. Sadly I can`t find any exploded diagrams but I`m taking pictures for reference!!
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After 6 months now using the Boxford, I`ve decided along with advice of friends that I`m going to stick with this lathe and for that reason I`m investing the next few weeks in refurbishing it to a former glory. I`ve not much money to spend on it but all it should cost me is some paint and the rest is only a case of time and effot, maybe some materials that I`ll already have in stock for re-bushing and such.
Here is the lathe when I first got it and it is pretty much unchanged up to now:
(http://www.caliken.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/boxy1.JPG)
Here is saddle/ carriage removed and full of swarf filled black oil.... aka gunk!
(http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/boxford22.jpg)
Few more various bits removed as well as change wheels and motor bracket and motor.
(http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/boxford23.jpg)
Just the headstock left on the bed with the gearbox. It is hard work getting the head off. I`m going to need to make some sort of bent spanner to give me enough lever between the bed! The head has to come off to reveal the screws holding on the gear box.
(http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/boxford24.jpg)
Old motor is at the top with the newer blue Brook Crompton 3/4hp 3 phase motor that is a perfect replacement! I had a boxford shaper and this 3 phase motor came off it. Luckly I kept it as it is now going to be perfect to install with an inverter to give me variable speed! If you look back at the photos of the headstock you can see the crude on off switch and reverse fitted in a terrible position with bad wiring. This three phase motor will allow me to have vari speed and a neat control box for the unit.
(http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/boxford25.jpg)
New 3 phase motor detail plate.
(http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/boxford26.jpg)
So the headstock and gearbox off next once I sort out a suitable spanner!
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Very nice find friend!
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Thanks, I`ve just spent a good few hours last night cleaning up the saddle with paraffin. Looks great now.
I`m going to prep it ready for painting and then I`ll move onto the headstock.
Thanks for your comment.
Chris
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Just a quick update. Sadly I`ve no detailed photos of the saddle before I stripped it down but hopefully you can appreciate how dirty it was with 50 years and no clean I expect!
Parts in a bucket after just being cleaned in paraffin.
(http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/saddle2-1024x768.jpg)
Rebuilt - just to check I could remember!!
(http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/saddle1-1024x768.jpg)
And stripped again for sanding
(http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/saddle3-1024x768.jpg)
Then repainted light grey - does it look too like undercoat ?? Sorry, the pic isn`t too detailed with a little bit too much in the background but they were still wet to move and it was the only place dust free!
(http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/saddle4.jpg)
Any opinions on colour before I go any further? I`m not sure....does light grey look a little too like an undercoat and unfinished!?
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Light gray is a great colour for machine tools! It will only look like undercoat if it is matt texture.
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Nice one..thanks for that vote of confidence. I know what you mean about it matt and no this is gloss - just me being paranoid!
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As you can see, I`ve stripped off the old single phase motor and all that nasty painted buttons and bell wire hooking up the motor :zap: . Rather than rewire it, I`m going to replace it with a 3 phase motor and inverter to give me variable speed control and a fresh wiring for the lathe which needed doing anyway! Luckly I had a 3 phase motor from a Boxford shaper which is a direct replacement.
Much of the info I put on wiring up this motor has been in this thread: http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=3420.0
Considering this is now going back onto the Boxford, I`ve reverted back to here...maybe I should have kept it all in here?! :wack:
Anyway, I wired the motor to Delta and when the inverter arrived from Gavin off homeworkshop, I was chuffed with the condition of it but shocked when I found the pendant was just parts and you needed to put them together yourself. OK OK, maybe I`m being greedy but I was kind of expecting it to be built and although a simple circuit, I can imagine some could be a little confused by the build, let alone having the equipment. Anyway, enough on that. I connected it all up which took several hours...I know I know ...I didn`t want to blow it up! Oh and of course I had to go to maplin to get a nice green start button :ddb: :ddb:
Why the hell I choose to video this I don`t know...I think we have all seen a variable speed motor running but here you go! For your viewing pleasure, in HD and in 3D!! With extra loud volume!
The only thing I dislike is when you change from rev to fwd, when you make that selection the motor starts. You can then stop and start using the correct button but again when you stop the motor and go to change direction, it kicks the motor back up in the new direction.
Next I`m better get it installed on the lathe!
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Hi Craynerd ,
I have had a look at the jaguar vxs info , after watching your video ,( had been redirected from your 3 phase motor thread )
if you change the existing toggle swich with a three position swich wired to select both forward and reverse in the centre possition
would the motor still run when you change direction ???
I could not find the maximum current available from the controller
if you needed some extra control logic
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Hi John
Yes, I thought about this and I think your correct. The current wiring of the control is shown below:
(http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/img_0564.jpg)
I think that i I take the Brown P24 wire through one of the switches to give on/off and take the wire from this switch to the centre of a 3 way switch and connect the white(Fwd) and the orange (Rev) to the other two terminals. This will then apparently give me a separate on/off and fwd/rev control.
That is the advice I`ve been given, but I`m not 100% clear how to do this and what it means!?!?
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Hi Creynerd
you added your reply while i was adding another simpler mod ,I hope it helps
edit - just added an alternative jog circuit
edit 2 - one more circuit with some component values this time
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Fitting Thrust Bearings to the Boxford
The current state of the cross slide and compound slide:
(http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/img_0632.jpg)
Cross slide:
(http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/img_0634.jpg)
The gap/play in the cross slide. This closes if you pull it back but of course the play is there.
(http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/img_0636.jpg)
The first two pictures show the lead screw of the cross slide removed, and notice the gap. The whole section slides back and forth and as you can see, when you slide it the other way the gap appears on the other side - pics 1 and 2.
(http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/img_0640.jpg)
(http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/img_0641.jpg)
The graduated dial has a huge screw and locks directly onto the leadscrew, there is no collar that fits under the graduate dial - so this isn`t a friction type. The little collar you can see locks and holds everything (i.e whats in picture 1 and 2) in place. It is the position of this collar which is giving me this play as it this collar which is allowing the section shown in the 2 pictures above to move left and right (left towards the lead screw and then right, it gets stopped by the collar)
But you can`t push the collar up any further against the back of the graduated dial (left in the picture) to remove the slack. Infact, looking at the picture, you can see the shoulder on the back of the grad dial and the grub screw sticking up, you can`t get in there to tighten the grub screw with the collar upto that section. It must be right how it is as a wider collar wouldn`t allow the grad dial front and back to close on itself
(http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/img_0644.jpg)
(http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/img_0645.jpg)
After posting on the Boxford Yahoo groups I found that my lathe is likely to be an original first version Model A which never had provisions for thrust bearings. If I`m going to go to the trouble of getting rid of this play, I may as well fit the bearings.
So the two thrust surfaces will be here between the grad dials:
(http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/img_0642.jpg)
(http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/img_0643.jpg)
And here, between the fixed column and the lead screw :
(http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/rob1.jpg)
I was talking to Rob who had made his own thrust bearings and while trawling the internet, I came across these on ebay:
(http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/bisqlgbgkkgrhqyokjyesnwunfqblokvew7g_35.jpg)
10mm bore, 18mm OD and 5mm Width, £5 for 4 – they seemed perfect!
I put one directly onto the lead screw where it butts up with the column but needed to take the 5mm off the column for the lead screw to still align with the cross power feed gearings.
(http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/trust1.jpg)
(http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/thrust2.jpg)
I then slid one between the column and the moving face of the graduated dial. I got rid of the retaining ring/collar and machined the grad dial so there was a tiny gap between the two faces of the grad dial when the thrust bearings were between. I then machined a little off the end of the leadscrew and also added a washer so that the handle now locks everything tight on the leadscrew. The front grad dial can still move because of the slick motion of the thrust bearings so the collar is not needed.
Works a treat, super slick and very little play/movement, just the play in the nut (almost nothing) and I`m now 100% happy with the setup. I have two spare Thurst bearings but the compound slide feels just fine without and little play so I`m inclined to leave that axis for now unless I get time or feel inclined to do it in the future – it was only the cross slide that was annoying me and now fixed!.
(http://raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/thrust3.jpg)
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Looking good. I like the color - looks "industrial".
Now get some lube on those parts before you get any rust! I use white lithium, but I'm sure someone will chime in with other suggestions.
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Nice.
Having re-read much of the thread, I thought I'd answer one of your questions from the very beginning - the end mills:
I regularly make a part that requires an internal hole with a shoulder. I drill as far as I can with an ordinary drill bit, then rather than using a boring bar, I use an end mill of the correct size in a tail stock collet holder to finish-drill the flat-bottomed hole.
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I think I need a manual, what else is on here that I don`t know about?? :med: :smart:
Chris
Have you joined the Yahoo Boxford Forum ?
loads of help in the files section.
John s.
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Chris,
Have you sorted or resolved your inverter issues?
I've recently been messing with inverters quite a lot and from what you described above, it might be much simpler to change the green start switch to a momentary type, add a momentary Off button (preferably red and needs to be N/C contacts) and re-configure the inverter for what they describe as '3 wire control' (change just one parameter in the software) - it's presently set to '2 wire control'. Can't remember off hand which the parameter is, but it's in the I/O section.
That way, any Off signal will be treated as the equivalent of a no-volt release and the motor will not start again until the inverter gets another start signal (either For or Rev) and the machine will behave like a 'normal' machine. If you were to do that, you would not need any diodes or other additional electonics or logic gates etc.
Richard
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Richard - thanks for the advice but yes I have!
I had an issue tonight and was hoping someone could help. I had my lathe running for about 5 minutes and randomly touched the pully shaft bushes, the hole area around where the pully shaft was mounted was really hot - too hot to touch. Is this right?? I can`t say that I`ve ever felt it before so I wouldn`t know. I wonder perhaps if the pully from the motor to the speed pully is a little too tight. It is at the end of the motor screw bolts so I`d have to drill new holes to release some of the tension....could this be the reason or is it OK being hot?
Chris
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Shouldn't be that hot. Presumably you've checked they're not binding and have greased them? I'd imagine the belts would have to be pretty tight to get it to run that hot!
Presumably there are two belts? If so the tension should be 'balanced' between them, don't know about this case but usually you can slacken off the pulley and it'll 'sort itself out' before re-tightening it.
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Thanks for the reply Kwackers. They are moving freely and are not binding - if I remove the belts completely then they turn just fine. I have greased them but noticed last night the greace also went black very quickly. Yes - two belts and that is interesting what you said, I wouldn`t say they are balanced, the belt between the motor shaft and change pully is tighter than the one between the change pully and the lathe. The motor is bolted down as close to the change pully as possible which is making the belt very tight. I`ll put it off tonight and re-drill it so I can slacken off the belt and see how that runs. It is the only reason I can think of, but I wouldn`t have considered it overly tight.
Chris
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If the load isn't roughly equal on the idle pulley - i.e. one belt is pulling it harder than the other then you'll have problems. They don't need to be exact, usually I slacken off the idle pulley, run the motor for a second or so then tighten it up. On some machines the idle pulley floats to allow it to move around.
Another thing to check is that the pulley is a reasonable fit on the shaft. If there's too much lateral play (i.e it's worn) then it'll try to tilt which will produce lots of friction at a couple of points. If so then you'll need to sleeve the pulley and/or change the shaft.
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I had an issue tonight and was hoping someone could help. I had my lathe running for about 5 minutes and randomly touched the pully shaft bushes, the hole area around where the pully shaft was mounted was really hot - too hot to touch. Is this right??
Chris
If it's too hot to touch it's definitely not right. Personally I'd be inclined to try to get a slightly longer belt rather than drilling new holes, seems a bit of a shame. Secondly, you also comment about 'greasing' the bearings, are they plain bushes or ball bearings?
I have a S&B Sabel which, like yours, is a development of a Southbend and it uses a countershaft very similar to the original, fitted with bronze bushes. These are oil lubricated, not grease, despite the fact that they have what look like grease nipples. I can't imagine ball bearings could possibly get so hot so I assume you must have bushes; check the lubrication chart in the book, I'd expect oil, probably the ubiquitous ISO32 hydraulic. Mine get 'detectably warm' after half an hour or so.
Richard
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Hi, sorry, I never replied but I fixed the issue with the temperature of my pully shaft - the belts were too tight caused by the position of the new 3 phase motor. Was probably just a few mm lower than the original. I have slipped under a shim and bolted it down tight and that has taken off some of the tension and now all seems fine.
I have a question. I have a little money, infact I`d just put it aside for the ME show later in the month but I`m considering spending it on an ER32 adaptor for my Boxford.
RDG do one for £60
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RDGTOOLS-ER32-COLLET-CHUCK-BOXFORD-LATHE-/370424484694?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item563f051356
Chronos do one for £50
http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/cgi-local/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2echronos%2eltd%2euk%2f&WD=boxford&PN=Soba_ER_Spring_Collets_Systems_%2d_NEW__%2ehtml%23a288251#a288251
I`m not sure if they are identical or rebranded but have you any suggestions as to which would be of a better quality? I`m also guessing this is a subjective question but do you think this would be a useful addition to the lathe. I have a good selection of chucks but considering I have an ER32 collet set that I use on the X2 mill, I thought I`d get more use out of them and also would hold the work piece more securely using a collet set, especially for smaller stuff.
Any thoughts or opinions welcome before I spend my cash.
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Chris
If it's relevant, I have a SOBA ER25 collet chuck, Myford fitting, from Chronos, and it's fine.
With Vertex collets, get about .0005" ish runout, near the chuck. Some a couple of tenths better, some ditto worse. Worst about .0007" IIRC
Some times clocks more some 2" away, but I have no means of checking how straight bar stock is ! I don't believe it's perfect :scratch:
Dave BC
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Do you use yours a lot?
I`m just trying to work out if it will benefit me...I currently hold work in one of my chucks, do I need to spend £50 to hold it in a collet?
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Chris
Depends .. use it mainly for small bar up to 8mm or so. Bigger than that, it's the chuck , usually.
My main use is for threading stuff like M3 M4 M5, where the eccenticity of the chuck makes threads too deep.
Hard to say, sometimes it's on the Myford for days, never put the 3-jaw on .. then don't use it at all for weeks ..
Nice to have though, unless you have an impeccable SC chuck .. mine ain't :bang:
Dave BC
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Chris,
I have ER25 for my milling machine but I have on occasions used it in my lathe headstock for holding tiny stuff. Only problem is it sticks down quite far from the mill so sometimes I think using finger collets would be more rigid.
My 3 jaw is pretty good now but as Dave BC said I don't think it could do stuff like threads on small parts.
What do you currently use on the mill?
Nick
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Thanks for the reply guys. I use an ER32 collect set on my mill which is why I`m considering getting the chuck for the boxford so I can use it on that as well.
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Sorry Chris, I didn't read your post fully and click the links, I just used my milling chuck in the lathe but obviously you can't grip long lengths that way.
I've seen different types of collet chucks cheaper than that if you have a back plate, so you skim the back plate down in the usual way you do when mounthing a chuck and bolt it on.
Can't remember where though, possibly arc eurotrade - will have a look.
Nick
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Nick, yes I do have a backplate. Arc Euro sell their ER32 collet for backplate mounting for £35.
I`m quite embarassed to say that I`ve never used a backplate!!!! My boxford has a threaded spindle so all my chucks just screw on and off. That being said, my lathe did come with a backplate with Boxford thread so I do have one - wouldn`t know to " skim the back plate down in the usual way you do when mounthing a chuck "
as I`ve never mounted one. I was reading somewhere that this is more accurate way than using one of the RDG or Chronos Boxford threaded ER32 chucks, but I`m not sure why and can`t for the life of me find the thread again.
I have decided that I do like one but it is know which one to get!? A Boxford threaded or backplate mounting.
Chris
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As I understand it, most (presumably non-OEM) chucks come without any particular fitting; the idea is you buy a part-machined backplate (or make your own) which is simply a disc which fits to your lathe; you then skim & turn this such that the chuck "just" fits onto it, and I guess drill & tap to attach chuck to backplate.
At least - if I look at the back of the various chucks I have, the all have a separate piece which is the lathe fitting. e.g. the one I acquired most recently has some kind of threaded end - this can be removed from the back of the chuck & a new backplate made.
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I was reading somewhere that this is more accurate way than using one of the RDG or Chronos Boxford threaded ER32 chucks, but I`m not sure why and can`t for the life of me find the thread again.
I have decided that I do like one but it is know which one to get!? A Boxford threaded or backplate mounting.
Chris
Chris
I cannot see any reason why a backplate would be more accurate.
A backplate is located radially by the accuracy of the register on the backplate, as is a direct mounting collet chuck. Same mechanism.
Or is there some other reason? I know it's possible to tweak a SC chuck by undersizing the chuck register, and tapping the chuck to clock true before winding the bolts tight. But I don't think it's recommended.
Dave BC
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Chris,
Just because you're machining that register on the actual machine it's going to be used on, you're making the register with zero run out, where as the of the shelf jobbie has been machined on some other machine with its inherant run out, then when you put it on yours it will be compounded. To be honest, they should be fairly accurate but that would be the theory behind it. If you've got a backplate, you could save a few quid and get that one.
I made a thread of when I mounted my new 3 jaw chuck here:
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=1303.0
same principle.
Nick
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OK Cheers guys. Like AdeV suggested, I found the thread: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=636594
This assumes that your thread and register is also accurate on a worn machine.
If for some reason it doesn't fit the register snugly then it will throw the ER collet
bit off and unlike a backplate that you skim for accuracy on the host lathe you are stuck.
However further in the thread a few of them have both (why I don`t know!) and it seems that the run out on the threaded ones are good. Hummm...I`ll have a think.
Chris