OT:
Andrew, your repair and problem solving skills are facinating to watch, thanks for documenting them.
Well the diagnosis was wrong :bang:It had to be the only other place possible! Well, it's hopefully the answer!
In fact (having had the block out and re- O ringed between slices) the leak is actually from the sliding spool itself - ie it's worn or the bore is worn or more likely both :(
Wasted a week with a red-herring where a breaker claimed to have a spare full block of all the spools (but he didn't - it was a different one!) so have ordered a spare spool "slice" from JCB (please pass the hat round) - should arrive tomorrow :med:
In this case it was three 5 month old Saddleback boars weighing in at 55, 54, and 49 kGs live weight that as I say should produce 100 kg of meat.Great news about the JCB It will be great to see her restored and not leaking :beer:
Thanks chaps, and yes you're all welcome to come round for a B&Q :beer:
Your getting to know this digger too well too soon!
Regards, Matthew
All these things are bodges though and I'm not too keen on bodges.
Andrew
Now you have a conundrum do you carry on useing the one you have on the machine and keep the gold plated one as a spare , but you may not need it :D
Stuart
I'm glad you found the puncture, but I was a bit disappointed about the clay pigeon thrower!
Cheers, Matthew.
I'm suprised the armature cleaned up so well.
Nice job..... :clap:
Are you going to re-upholster the seat? :dremel:
Could do with a new cover.... :coffee:
Funny that you should mention the seat -
Yet to find how it comes off, but I'm sure that it must somehow :scratch:
.... Now I did consider cutting out a stencil on the laser cutter to paint stencil the JCB logo back on to the seat, as this one doesn't have it .....
Almost all tracked vehicles use the same method of track tensioning. The idler sprocket slides in a track way, and is forced outwards by a grease filled cylinder the other end of which rests against a massive spring seated firmly against the chassis. The tension is applied by pumping grease into the cylinder.
So to remove the track you undo the grease fitting and let the piston in the cylinder move back releasing tension (and masses of grease!) With the tension released I had a devil of a job getting the first track off, levering, prying, cussing a bit. Eventually I decided to remove the bolts from the drive sprocket as I was changing it anyway, thus allowing the track to slide sideways. Eventually it came off :bang:
SNIP
Can't you reduce the led current a bit?
After all that work, don't tell me you're not going to de-rust & repaint it? Or will you leave it with that "rat look"?Yea I was just about to say the same LOL
Well it's a working tool. It needs to function and be reliable but doesn't need bling :ddb:
I am impressed by your skills, fearlessness and ingenuity to take on that wide variety of projects :clap: I always learn a thing or two for each thread I read.
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I am impressed by your skills, fearlessness and ingenuity to take on that wide variety of projects :clap: I always learn a thing or two for each thread I read.
IPA (not the beer) is Iso-Propyl Alcohol. Never heard it called Industrial Pure before - did you get the Chinese stuff? :lol:
If you get bored of the linear bar graph, Sparkfun do some rather cool radial ones: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11492
I bought a stack of LED products a while back, pretty sure I got some of the radial ones, you're welcome to one if you like.
I've a couple of hoses to replace, but they are only on the breaker attachment points to the quick release fittings (I don't have a breaker) and I've already crimped up the hoses, it's just a matter of getting round to it.
......No idea how the replacement works - it measures 'genuine ohms' on a meter as the plastic doughnut moves up and down the stainless rod - I assume that the doughnut is magnetic, but what the variable resistive element is, is a mystery to me :scratch: