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Our Shop / Re: Fire In The Foundry
« Last post by awemawson on March 30, 2023, 11:44:58 AM »
Then it was a case of squirting fireproof expanding foam into all the joints. I hate applying this stuff! One of the main problems is that the can has to be inverted when spraying, and if you are filling the roof / wall joint this is neigh on impossible. For the first can I added a pipe extension but up in that tight space, on a ladder and reaching round the RSJ it was never going to go smoothly !

First can did about 3/4 of the job, and I had intended to trim the surplus foam back and make good missing bits with the second can. Despite claims as to 'time to trim' on the can they weren't realised so I carried on as best I could after a few hours filling in the missing bits.

As always in this situation far too much ends up on the floor - and as it finally all expands and set much will have to be trimmed back for tidiness - I guess somewhat less than the volume of one can will actually remain in the joints !

So apart from trimming the foam, I still have to re-fix the electrics and scrape mounds of set foam off the floor then I think it's 'job done'.

. . . did I tell you that I hate expanding foam !
Our Shop / Re: Fire In The Foundry
« Last post by awemawson on March 30, 2023, 11:30:59 AM »
So after what seems a ridiculous amount of time I eventually got the rest of the original timber shiplap cladding cut back and was able to start boxing in the exposed inner wall that has my workshop on the other side.

So what to use to box it in ? I happened to have two sheets of Knauf Aquapanel that is intended as a tile backer board. Knauf claim it to be fire resistant as well as suitable for damp conditions. A quick test with a propane torch showed that indeed it was fireproof, and as this corner is the one with the irritation of occasional  roof leak it seemed be the stuff to use!

The placing of the original batons wasn't the ideal spacing but the wall construction didn't allow of change so they were re-used. Firstly running a 2" border round the periphery I then cut the lower panel to size (9" diamond saw and loads of dust!

The second panel wasn't so simple having the slope of the roof and some odd cut outs so I first made a plywood template before slicing up the remaining sheet of Aqualpanel.

The complex construction of this corner offered a few challenges - the welding shop next door has a 100 mm block cavity wall spaced off a similar shiplap wall that I'd had built years ago to prevent fires, but this cavity was exposed to the foundry where the RSJ's had been welded and bolted to form the new foundry building. Very little to fix cladding to here and I resorted to bending up a metal box structure to make the necessary seals.
Member Videos / Re: My week this week, my workshop videos!
« Last post by hermetic on March 26, 2023, 09:56:41 AM »
I started the week with a couple of days of small repairs in the workshop, then went up to the field, and continued with our big clearance in readiness for the new fencing. Fixed a hydraulic leak on the tractor tip pipe. I also ordered the PTO clutch for the tractor, and on sunday, went to Catwick to buy a very reasonably priced machine lamp which is the exact one for the Harrison milling machine, but more of that next week!
Phil in windy, rainy but definitely springlike East Yorkshire
Our Shop / Re: Fire In The Foundry
« Last post by awemawson on March 25, 2023, 08:02:29 AM »
This morning I started stripping off the left hand side of the timber cladding. It's a very awkward corner, and if I wasn't left handed would be pretty well impossible - luckily I am !

The bulk is now removed and the finessing begins - all those plank ends need trimming in situ back to the wall which should be possible with the Fein Multi-tool but it only just gets in the space behind that RSJ.

Up at roof level the construction gets complicated to say the least - this is where three buildings and their roofs come together having been built at different times, and not surprisingly is where I have had an ongoing persistent leak when the wind is in the wrong direction.

I'm not as flexible as I'd like at the moment so enough for just now - but at least it's a bit of progress. The blue vapour barrier was fixed to the unclad original barn that forms my workshop, and once clad with shiplap had foam insulation sprayed from the inside. That foam, though not particularly inflammable, is not fireproof but it's not really feasible to remove it - I will probable over clad it with fire rated fibre cement sheeting, and seal the edges with fire rated expanded foam.
Oooops! / Re: Spot the mistake
« Last post by Dell on March 24, 2023, 04:01:21 PM »
Yes AdeV
That was my thinking as extended pointers are freely available, although I could make one.
Oooops! / Re: Spot the mistake
« Last post by AdeV on March 24, 2023, 12:51:34 PM »
Could you make an extension for the DI plunger? Might be the easiest fix...
Oooops! / Re: Spot the mistake
« Last post by awemawson on March 24, 2023, 10:42:40 AM »
He who's never made a mistake has never made anything !

. . . . it's all a learning exercise  :thumbup:
Oooops! / Spot the mistake
« Last post by Dell on March 24, 2023, 10:28:50 AM »
I have been getting used to using my new to me lathe , I had already made a mount so I can use the graver, and I thought next I would make a carriage stop but it needed to be a stop and a mount for the dial gauge well I was chuffed that what I had made was going to do the job until I fitted the dti  :doh: the carriage hits the mount before the full travel of the dti , so a slight modification is needed.
How do I?? / Re: Dial for old scales
« Last post by RussellT on March 24, 2023, 06:54:47 AM »
Phil, John - SALTER got left behind while I was moving it all to the middle of the page - thanks for pointing it out - I'd have been annoyed if I hadn't noticed it before I'd finished.

Phil, I could do something like yours - but I'm trying to make it fancy.  I have thought about doing a metric dial on the back of the imperial one.  Interestingly I found a picture of an original metric scale which was calibrated to 15 kilos (about 33 pounds) - I think they would just have adjusted the bar that goes through the spring to make the spring shorter.

Russ, the original was white paint on tin plate, with the design printed or stencilled on.

Andrew, that is a very good idea.  I had actually thought of that but dismissed it because I thought it would be difficult to get a printout without pinholes in the large white areas, but you prompted me to look again, and I discovered negative photoresist.  I've never done circuit boards like that - I generally use press'n'peel.  I will investigate further.

How do I?? / Re: Dial for old scales
« Last post by SwarfnStuff on March 24, 2023, 01:46:49 AM »
Hi Russ,
     Perhaps you simply missed the brand "SALTER" on the original brass face you put a scan of in you post?
John B
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