looking good stew :thumbup:
i have what might be a very dumb question but is there not fumes from melting the foam???
if so i hope you are wearing a mask or something to protect your lungs.
chuck :wave:
looking good stew :thumbup:
Hey Stew. I didn't know you were building a boat just like me. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Sorry Chuck I just couldn't resist. You know how many times I did that too! :bang:Quotei have what might be a very dumb question but is there not fumes from melting the foam???
if so i hope you are wearing a mask or something to protect your lungs.
chuck :wave:
The fumes are not that bad, I mean no big cloud. There are a few. A fan takes care of that.
Bernd
Don,
It's not as good as I would like it. I've found that the nichrome wire stretches when it gets hot. Looks like I'm going to have to modify the cutter a bit. Also want to try SS wire.
If it gets that cold I'm going for making an ice boat. :lol: Or I'll just stick with the steam engines and my model railroading and machine modds and ................ :D
Bernd
:scratch:
The real Stew or is there more than one
Thanks Stew,
Well, that's the idea, catch it between the hulls. But when the boat is out there several yards (meter's?) it isn't going to be easy. Will have to video some of that for a good laugh, right?
Bernd
Well, that's the idea, catch it between the hulls. But when the boat is out there several yards (meter's?) it isn't going to be easy. Will have to video some of that for a good laugh, right?
Bernd
Starting to look good. One thing that you may want to keep in mind is that sometimes these boats flip over so may not present the same profile to the rescue boat. :lol: :lol:
Cheers :beer:
Don
I already broke one wire after I shut the power off. :bang:Hi Bernd, I thought I'd see what you were up to, and I would weigh in with the pulley and weight, as it is even, and easily adjustable for exactness. I don't think you'll find anything that comes close to the reliability of the nichrome wire, I haven't worked with it in years, but decades ago there was nichrome, and then there were all the other wires that failed. All in all, sounds like a good idea, I've helped a few people rescue a "dead in the water" r/c boat, and it isn't always easy. :poke:
That's the one mod I'll need to make. Think I'll add a pulley and weight. More even tension that way.
Bernd
I don't think you'll find anything that comes close to the reliability of the nichrome wire, I haven't worked with it in years, but decades ago there was nichrome, and then there were all the other wires that failed.
All in all, sounds like a good idea, I've helped a few people rescue a "dead in the water" r/c boat, and it isn't always easy. :poke:
HS93,
...I tried to upload some picture but I was told it was FULL so no more uploads they where only 131KB...
This is the same problem I'm having.
I don't know if it is relevant but I'm using Firefox as my browser.
Can anyone help ?
Dave.
Interesting that there have been a lot of pictures posted after I started having the problem. And most of them seem to be via Photobucket.
I wonder if it is only the direct postings to madmodder.net that are effected.
Dave.
Hi Bernd, I just wanted to say, Mauser Electronics has some kits for pulse width modulator motor controllers that are easy to build and pretty cost effective. They used to be "Vellman Kits", but went the way of so many other kits. So far that "rescue boat" is coming right along, I'm looking forward to seeing how you do your rudders, both in the water and behind the props. I'm wondering if you've got enough battery power for the whole thing though. I'd hate to see you have to change over to steam or gas power :poke: mad jack. By the way, do you still have snow down there? :lol:
Hi Bernd
If your motor is drawing 20 Amps that's 240W (1/3rd Horsepower) which should make it get fairly warm :bugeye:. With two it should be very impressive.
For some reason I thought they were from a ride on kids toy :hammer:. PWM should work great for that.
Hi Bernd
Something doesn't sound quite right if they are those motors :scratch:, and the size you say sounds about right. 20 Amps is really too much for a motor of that type - I would think even 10 Amps is a lot for a single motor. Looking at the ride on car ads they seem to indicate motor powers of <40W which equates to <4 Amps. I am pretty sure the one my kids had was more than that (possibility of corrupt memory here) so I may be wrong.
Stupid question but - when you measured the current were the meter leads plugged into the high current sockets on the meter ? (forgive my impertinence for assuming that you wouldn't do it that way). The other question is do you know what the off load (no prop) motor current is ? My guess is it should be < 1 Amp.
Looking forward to seeing the project completed.
Best Regards
picclock
With 72 Watts in the motor under no load it sounds like the motor core is saturating (too many volts). With all due respect, I can't see a motor of that size lasting long under those conditions. The size and description of the motor sound the same as the one for my kids ride on Quad bike - I could ride on it and often both my kids and a neighbours child would all clamber on it and ride around the garden. A very good toy. However I'm pretty certain the motors on mine were 12V (2x17Ah 6v red batteries if I remember correctly - would run for about 1 1/2 hours in continuous use).
With a 35A fuse I'm guessing around 100 Watts per motor in original use. If you want them to last long enough to retrieve your boat run them off 6 volts and up gear the prop (and/or 3-4 blade big as you can get prop). If you can get the motor to use 10 - 15A at 6V with gearing/prop sizing this will allow the motor to run in its sweet spot allowing most of the battery power to be used for propulsive force, as opposed to heating and knackering the motor.
picclock