MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => Project Logs => Topic started by: John Hill on July 11, 2009, 04:00:34 AM
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My collet set has arrived along with milling cutters so it is time to test out a bit of milling in the lathe, but first I need a draw bar as the one I had made previously proved to be 10mm whereas the collet chuck requires 12mm thread!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3529/3708657845_430e943209.jpg)
Only the finest materials were used such as this skungy old piece of electrical conduit, circa 1930 I would think. In the lathe to turn the rust off!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2534/3709470752_2d247ea52b.jpg)
Never throw anything away! This is a flywheel from a old tape recorder which was reduced to its useful parts a decade or so ago. Nice alloy and easy to tap a 12mm thread into and to turn a shoulder to match the end of the lathe spindle.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3508/3709470664_dbc272e33f.jpg)
Once tapped I could mount it on a bolt and knurl the edge!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2446/3708657745_6c440ac1ff.jpg)
The knurled wheel meets the piece of conduit and it is all held in place with a precision pin which I found in the hardware store among others in the nail department!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3506/3708657691_a858e90c8a.jpg)
A bit of threaded steel and another nail at the other end and the drawbar is ready for testing! The rusty conduit looks OK I think! :coffee:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3422/3709470544_0318bc2bcc.jpg)
Here it is in position! The knob is not really very big but it seems big enough to pull the taper into place, I was careful to leave the locking nut on the outside so I can put a spanner on if it ever winds on too tight to loosen by gripping the knob. (no picture of the other end but it just looks like a collet chuck :med:)
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Very nice indeed, bodging at it's best.
And don't them nails precision pins make great shear pins and rivets.
John
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Nicely done there, man after my own heart with all that recycling..... :thumbup:
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Hi that what a lovely bit of Bodgery :clap:
We'll have to call you John Hill King of Bodgers
Have fun
Stew
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Hi that what a lovely bit of Bodgery :clap:
We'll have to call you John Hill King of Bodgers
Have fun
Stew
"The Artful Bodger", if you please! :med:
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Thanks for the nudge John! :thumbup:
I make a regular batch of 3/8" dia widgets which are very thin walled....... I really need a collet chuck to hold `em! :scratch:
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/p7010006.jpg)
But, realised I`ve got one, on my mill!!! ::)
Just add a 12mm drawbar! :thumbup:
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/p7130006.jpg)
Taper clunked into location, in usual mt fashion.
Drawbar screwed hand tight.
Spanner to loosen afterwards, if necessary.....
Works a treat!
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/p6250007.jpg)
Saved me £33, for an ER32 collet chuck..... :D
Thanks again! :thumbup:
David D
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David, I have an ER25 set I need to do the same with! Think it'd come in very handy for the little components, will stop the chuck jaws marking them too.
:thumbup:
The only advantage of buying the collet chuck I can see is that you could get a length of stock right throuh, but I rarely do that and would need another back plate as don't want to keep taking the 3 jaw off with the bolts.
Nick
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David, I have an ER25 set I need to do the same with! Think it'd come in very handy for the little components, will stop the chuck jaws marking them too.
:thumbup:
The only advantage of buying the collet chuck I can see is that you could get a length of stock right throuh, but I rarely do that and would need another back plate as don't want to keep taking the 3 jaw off with the bolts.
Nick
Nick,
I think with the taper pushed home sensibly tight, we`d have no problem, with light machining. :wave:
I checked the available depth....... 5" with drawbar in place.......
Plenty long enough for my short bar work! :thumbup:
David D
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David,
That' be more than enough for me! Just recently fitted a new chuck and that's accurate enough for most other stuff, it's just really small stuff that's fiddley. I remember having big problems turning little bits of silver steel in my old chuck due to the run out and wear on jaws, with the collets it should be really good. Will be one of my first jobs when I get the garage cleared!
Cheers,
Nick
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Will be one of my first jobs when I get the garage cleared!
Cheers,
Nick
The best of good luck to you Mate! :thumbup:
I`ve been tidying for 5yrs now........ Only the bench top to clear...... Sometime! ::)
David D
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Rest assured, it won't take me that long! It's nudging it's way up on my "prioritiesed list of jobs" so even if there's a bit in the middle where a load of stuff is dumped, my workshop around the outside will be sorted! I should give myself a timescale, am off for 2 weeks at the end of this week though so no time like the present!
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Followed this idea and made me another drawbar...
(http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j35/jgleeds/WORKSHOP/th_DSCN6123.jpg) (http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j35/jgleeds/WORKSHOP/DSCN6123.jpg)
Two long M10 Bolts had their heads chopped off and were then welded together.
I made it a bit longer, so that I can use it on two machines.
Now, if you are already in my Photobucket album, you're free to look around...
http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j35/jgleeds/
Johannes
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Some nice pics in there Johannes! :thumbup:
David D
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David i assume that variable speed lathe works ok, i have one with US board and QR toolpost as well hidden away for 3 years with original grease still on, cant do anything with it except file radiuses. Might have a play with it when got some time and only bought it for late night work.
I can understand people if they already have the ER chuck and collets to use on other machines, but why on earth any one buys them in the first place is beyond me, same with the Clarkson.
Shame in a way i gave away a Pratt & Burnerd collet chuck, a few collets and hand wheeled drawbar as i didnt fancy forking out for collets i would use.
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i have just had to make 3 drawbars for my new mill!!
it came with M12 drawbar and you guessed, everything was either, 1/2 BSW, 3/8 BSW or M10!!!
just bought a length of 1/2 BSW threaded rod, loctited some nuts on and turned them down to fit the "self ejecter".
all i need to do is make sure i don't get them mixed up and mess up the threads :doh: