MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => Gallery => Topic started by: Tweakie on October 08, 2012, 06:57:41 AM
-
A CO2 laser produced image on Obeche using the Mach3 Impact / Laser Engraving plugin with a step-over of 0.2mm and feed-rate of 3000mm/min.
Tweakie.
-
Do you have her phone number ?
-
She looks a bit expensive to run John so I gave that a miss.
Tweakie.
-
Wonder what it costs to rent ?
-
thats the wife
-
This little charmer is just about within my budget.
Tweakie.
-
I've had her, she wasn't that great.
-
Was that Ashley Olsen or Super Kitty ??
Tweakie.
-
Hi Tweaky,
Looking good! Have you tried it with lettering instead of an image?
How does that come out? I think it might be a bit more difficult to get it right for plain text.
Lykle
-
Hi Lykle,
Because lasers are essentially a 1 bit device (on / off) engraving text is probably the easiest task of them all.
Both vector and raster engraving are possible and this is just a basic example of some raster work.
Tweakie.
-
Oh wow Tweaky, that looks very good!
Next question, how does that look on Aluminium or Stainless Steel?
And of course, do you have a build log of the device? Because more and more I have a need for engraving, and this is much better than engraving. So I would love to make something like this.
Although stuck out here in the boondocks is not the best place to be to build something like this. But I can try.
Lykle
-
Won't work on alumium, very hard to mark without some stuff called Ceemark which is an aerosol that cost £100 a tin [ no typo ]
It contains a ceramic slurry made from ground up 3rd century Ming vases, hence the price.
The laser melts this and fuses it to the surface, it's suitable for most metals.
You can do stainless easily but spraying the surface with some dry moly lube [ £12 a tin from RS - better ] and then laser it into the surface
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/registered_user/screwcuttingchart4.jpg)
Screwcutting chart but had problems with distortion [ since fixed ] but this gives you an idea of what it can do.
Next step is to switch the air assist off and try fusing power coat powder onto alloy.
John S.
{edit} Sorry knackered the link up.
-
As John said, my CO2 laser will not mark aluminium without an additive.
However, it will ablate the dye layer in anodized aluminium as shown on this scrap piece of black anodized.
Tweakie.
-
Nice job John :thumbup:
Did the heat build up in the plate make the etching go darker (amusing it was etched top left to bottom right) in the bottom right corner ?
Rob
-
Rob,
No the job was crap but it proved the concept.
The reason it darker bottom right is the plate warped with the heat and curled up, this then altered the focal length of the beam so you get fatter letters which hold more black.
same at the top as it did all the lines and circles first, then went on to do the lettering. The last lettering to do was at the top and because of the curl it's missed the circles.
Best example is the middle of the plate except the two last lines as I tried to see if it would push down and moved the plate.
When I do them not I pin them to a big block of alloy and do the lettering in stages to allow the heat to dissipate.
Another way of doing these is to take a sheet of normal perspex, spray the back silver using a Willco rattle can, burn the image on the back in reverse, then rattle can it black.
This gives you a nice plate and smooth on the front so the lettering can't wear off.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/registered_user/screwcuttingchart3.jpg)
-
Makes scene John ,I suppose it would not take much for the beam to be out of focus .
The Perspex chart came out a treat . Did you scan the original chart or did you do it in CAD?
Rob
-
Did it in CAD using a couple of photo's and a sketch of the sizes.
The original was too far gone to scan.
-
John,
That perspex one is very nice :thumbup: :clap:
:beer:
DaveH
-
Tweakie.
That picture on the anodised alloy is fantastic.
I know it can be done and last week i picked a load of 1mm sheet offcuts that I want to send in to the anodisers to get done.
Can you give us a blow by blow of how it's done as not done any graphics on the laser yet ?
-
Is your laser engraver home made?
-
Can you give us a blow by blow of how it's done as not done any graphics on the laser yet ?
The images were produced using the Impact / Laser plugin with Mach3.
There are more details here; http://hobbymaro.puhasoft.hu/Tweakie/Engraving.pdf (http://hobbymaro.puhasoft.hu/Tweakie/Engraving.pdf)
The latest version of the plugin .dll is here; http://hobbymaro.puhasoft.hu/Tweakie/Engraving.dll (http://hobbymaro.puhasoft.hu/Tweakie/Engraving.dll)
Is your laser engraver home made?
My laser is homebuilt.
Tweakie.
-
Tweakie,
Thanks for that but not using mach3 and using the propitiatory software with the Chinese laser
-
Ahh…Looks like you (and Art) will have to make the best of what the Chinese laser operating software has to offer. :palm:
Tweakie.
-
Many will have already seen a Lithophane or perhaps made their own. It is an ancient art form dating back many centuries and was at it’s most popular, here in the UK, during Victorian times. They were often produced by hand engraving an image in wax on a glass (or similar) sheet then pouring over clay slip. Once dry the parts were separated and the slip incorporated and fired into a porcelain or china clay tile, plate, cup etc. The invention of photography was perhaps the cause of their demise and unfortunately, they eventually fell out of favour and all but disappeared.
The advent of CNC has slowly caused a revival and they are now starting to gain popularity once again. I have made many using spindle machining but wondered if it would be possible to achieve acceptable results using a laser and I was honestly surprised by the results.
I still have to make some improvements in the technique used but thought you may like to see the results so far.
Tweakie.
-
Hi Guys,
Thanks to suggestions from others I have been able to improve my technique and this is the latest Lithophane laser cut into Corian.
I was using a constant velocity of 4000mm / min for the X axis (excepting the acceleration and deceleration zones for each line scan). The final work does need backlighting (unlike opal Plexiglas) so it looks like I will be making a few LED / diffuser light frames when I get the chance.
Tweakie.
-
Sure looks good Tweakie,
I need to get back on my laser and try again to get it to do something except looking like wood burning I used to do in the Boy Scouts.
-
Could you post some pictures of the machine? I would love to see how you built it!
Thanks, Dale P.
-
Could you post some pictures of the machine? I would love to see how you built it!
Thanks, Dale P.
My CNC machine was constructed as a wood router although it now spends most of it's time doing spindle engraving work, the laser head was added as an additional tool and it only takes a few seconds to swap between spindle and laser work.
For those that are interested my constructional details are here http://www.cooperman.talktalk.net/
Tweakie.
-
Something I think I should mention here, for those that are considering Lasers, are some of the dangers involved (and this is, by no means an exhaustive list).
Whilst all machinery has it’s own particular set of dangers, with CNC in particular, the unexpected can always happen so chances should never be taken and nothing should ever be assumed or indeed taken for granted.
When using lasers there are added dangers…
Firstly and most importantly, protective eye-wear (rated for the wavelength of the laser used) must always be worn. Pets, children and visitors should always be kept well clear of the working environment. It can take only a fraction of the time it takes to blink to cause serious and perhaps permanent eye damage.
Many products worked with lasers are combustible and the fire risk is always present. An operating laser machine should never be left un-attended (even for a short period) and suitable fire extinguishers should always be close to hand and available for use if necessary.
Finally there is the unseen danger of toxic fumes and air-borne particles. Adequate fume extraction must be used at all times when a laser machine is in operation.
(Just as an example - PVC, when cut with a laser will give off copious amounts of Chlorine gas which will combine with the moisture in the air to create a form of Hydrochloric Acid. Not only is this extremely toxic for us to inhale it will also cause machine damage. Many other materials can also produce just as nasty by-products).
Personal safety is, in general, a matter of common sense but we must always remind ourselves of the old adage where familiarity breeds contempt.
The fact that we have done something 100 times without incident does not mean it is safe to do so please think ahead, live long and prosper.
Tweakie.
-
A bit more experimentation using printer toner for PCB creation.
There are a couple of difficulties to be overcome – firstly getting a thin and even layer of the toner powder onto the copper surface and secondly getting a low enough power level so as not to completely vaporize the toner. ( Note to self - don't forget to turn off air assist )
Once these challenges have been overcome – it is a breeze.
Tweakie.
IMPORTANT - It should be noted that it is unwise to experiment with fine powders in a confined space so for any that follow please observe the necessary safety precautions.
-
Toner powder have magnetic properties. Maybe you can use these properties to your advantage. Electrostatic charge to the copper clad could also help.
-
Hi Noitoen,
Thank you for the suggestion - that is something that I will try.
Another test with the dreaded Toner to get some idea of the possible resolution.
Tweakie.
-
Hey Tweakie,
I went to your website and really like what you are doing.
I have one question though, which steppers did you use?
I can't seem to find the specs anywhere.
Thanks
Lykle
-
Hi Lykle,
Thanks.
Here is a link to the steppers http://www.sonceboz.com/medias/produits/fiches-techniques/6600-30-v08.pdf
Tweakie.
-
A bit more experimentation using printer toner for PCB creation.
Could you not use the laser to cut track outlines in the copper, or would the heat be too much for the board substrate?
Then again, if your machine has interchangeable tools, you could switch to a mechanical engraver instead. "Right tool for the job" and all that.
-
Could you not use the laser to cut track outlines in the copper, or would the heat be too much for the board substrate?
My laser will not cut metals but I think it would be as you suggest - a big enough laser to cut copper would probably cut straight through the board as well. :)
Then again, if your machine has interchangeable tools, you could switch to a mechanical engraver instead. "Right tool for the job" and all that.
Quite right and exactly what I do. http://www.cooperman.talktalk.net/circuit5.wmv
Tweakie.
-
Quite right and exactly what I do. http://www.cooperman.talktalk.net/circuit5.wmv
Tweakie.
So I saw - I had a rummage on your site after I finished reading the forum. :thumbup:
-
Thanks Tweakie,
Back to the drawing board and start designing again.
Oh the joy of a good esign...
Lykle
-
Just out of curiosity, does your laser scour glass so that it can break, like you do with a regular diamond cutter? Tinted glass in this case.
-
Just out of curiosity, does your laser scour glass so that it can break, like you do with a regular diamond cutter? Tinted glass in this case.
Not successfully.
The laser engraves glass quite nicely but it does not really produce the necessary 'V' type of score that is required to achieve a nice clean break.
Tweakie.
-
Thanks for the information. I wasn't really looking for a clean cut. At work, we have a machine to help recycle old tv and computer screens, separating the front part of the CRT's glass from the cone part. This is done by scouring the glass with a carbide wheel and then applying heat with a resistive tape to help crack the glass. The system is so inefficient and I thought the laser could help.
-
We recently had some discussion (in another forum) where I doubted that laser produced lithophanes could actually produce a resolution equal to a spindle engraved litho but since getting hold of some genuine Corian to try - I now think that it is possible to get extremely close.
The big advantage is that the laser takes half an hour to produce a small, 0.1mm step-over, litho that may take half a day with spindle engraving.
This litho (created from a .jpg image of the Hungarian Parliament Building) is just 50mm square and I think is probably a good example of the resolution that is typically achievable using laser techniques.
Tweakie.