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Project Logs / Re: induction heater
« Last post by shipto on November 12, 2021, 12:33:02 PM »
After a little thinking about I currently have the setup in the picture but I am now thinking I may modify it a little and make the power supply sit at a slight angle but I am out of aluminium for now so will have to look at it tomorrow.

I am still trying to decide if I should include some kind of timer and auto shut off, I guess I will have to see how it runs once piped up.
Project Logs / induction heater
« Last post by shipto on November 12, 2021, 11:13:10 AM »
I brought an induction heater which I have been using to oil blacken some diehead parts but as I didn't have any cooling I have been doing 4-5 then switching it off to allow it to cool. So now I am working on housing it properly (not on a brick  :lol:) and adding cooling.

As luck would have it my daughter replaced her "broken" CPU cooler which when I stripped it apart I found had somehow leaked all the fluid out and was just pumping air around the system, seems daft that they dont give you some way to fill it?

So to start with I swapped the coil on the induction heater from the top to the bottom of the board and cut some aluminium angle to mount to the radiator to get me started. The filler bottle will be fixed at an angle because I plan to be able to use it in two orientations.
Morray, I'm coming to the conclusion that they are simply individual wire cores in the harness from the starter motor to the fuse box rather than an individual component. Certainly there are seven yellow cores of varying gauge crimped into a big tag on the starter motor and disappearing into the 'cab harness' and there seem to be seven of these 'Fuse Links'

Later Edit: (oops - it seems that there are 9 'Fuse Links' ! )
I'd look for a black box near the battery...  follow the hot lead!

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Not a lot of progress as I'm 'waiting for things' but this morning I thought that I'd knuckle down and try and trace the wiring for the cab interior light, and the warning buzzer.

Warning buzzer was EASY - it isn't sounding as it isn't there  :lol: It's the same format as the plug in relays and I bet someone unplugged it when the oil pressure switch failed. Quite clever really, all the various pressure and temperature sensors feed into a multi-input diode logic OR gate the output of which brings up a big red warning triangle on the dash, and sounds the buzzer - well it would if it was there ! Replacement on order.

I totally failed to trace the Cab interior wiring issue. The light should have ground (battery -ve) on one side (it does), and a permanent live feed via fuse A7. Measuring at fuse A7 it has no live feed but in looking into how it is fed I find on the circuit diagram it is via "Fuse Link 7" . Now nowhere is there reference to fuse links as opposed to fuses, the fuses are designated A1 though A9, B1 though B9 and C1 through C9 and have a different circuit symbol to the Fuse Links (Which are drawn as a resistor zig-zag line)

Incidentally, the (not working) radio which is fused by 'A8' is ALSO fed from 'fuse link 7' so it probably IS the problem if I can only find it!)

Trying to trace it using a Tempo tone tracer the only place it turned up was on the steering column right hand stork that controls full or dipped headlights !

. . . .so it remains a mystery  :bang:
Project Logs / Re: 3d printer - Leapfrog creatr conversion
« Last post by BillTodd on November 11, 2021, 10:42:10 AM »
Yes thanks Sean,

The extruder is very much an experiment, it was intended to be made in aluminium.

I've had experience with resin parts and heat , they do odd things  like cracking apart at modest temperatures , while at the same time being almost immune to the soldering iron!

I might investigate some higher temperature resins.

In the meantime, I have rebuilt the extruder with a number of fixes which should hopefully  stop it jamming .

Project Logs / Re: 3d printer - Leapfrog creatr conversion
« Last post by MetalMagus on November 11, 2021, 07:08:39 AM »
Noticed you said you had used resin parts. On the Voron printer forum they advise against resin parts, especially if the print chamber is going to be heated. The reason given was that the resin parts are prone to "creep" over time so you begin to see fit and tolerance issues.

Just something to bear in mind if you start having any issues that are not easily identified.

The Water Cooler / Re: Thou shalt have a heat pump.
« Last post by mattinker on November 11, 2021, 06:34:50 AM »
One issue with heat pumps is when you want the heat at night where is the sun to give you the heat ?

It doesn't use the sun's heat! It's takes heat from the air!

I have one, air to water, it's been running about a year, I don't know how economical it is yet. First immediate benefit here in France is not having to pay the charge on the Gas meter!

It took some setting up, but there is no difference between my gas boiler and the heat pump!

Cheers, Matthew
The Water Cooler / Re: Thou shalt have a heat pump.
« Last post by chipenter on November 11, 2021, 02:48:18 AM »
One issue with heat pumps is when you want the heat at night where is the sun to give you the heat ?
The Water Cooler / Re: Thou shalt have a heat pump.
« Last post by WeldingRod on November 10, 2021, 07:30:48 PM »
One issue with ground loops is that if your heat and cooling load isn't balanced you start raising or lowering the ground temperature over time.  You accomodate this with more loop volume than is shown on the charts.
Or, you do what I was contemplating: bank cold!  When it's cold, circulate your fluid through a air heat exchanger to cool the ground.  Low energy activity...
Or, bank hotness if you are in Canada instead of Houston ;-)

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