MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => Project Logs => Topic started by: Chuck in E. TN on April 24, 2010, 04:36:06 PM
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I'm going to build a rotary table as documented here: http://www.deansphotographica.com/machining/projects/mill/rotary/rotary1.html.
I am still digging up materials. I've got a worm and gear from a treadmill incline motor, but it's helical. The drive screw from the incline setup would make a worm if I can find a gear to use with it. I have the plate fr the top and base, no square tube yet. Plan on using a cast iron flywheel from a treadmill as the table bit, but its only 1" thick. Might work.
This will be a budget project. I plan to even make a t-slot cutter as per the site above. Someware, put away for safe keeping (read I can't find it!), I have the transmission from a self-propelled lawn mower that had a heardy worm and worm gear, that might serve me better.
Chuck in E. TN
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Looking forward to seeing the build log Chuck. I have been thinking about disassembling my cheapo RT and building one along the lines of Deans' table. I am not to happy with mine, but the gears and stuff may be put to good use.
Make sure you take lots of pictures!
Eric
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Have fun with it, Chuck.
The table on the original unit is only 3/4" thick, so your 1" piece should do fine. Being cast iron, it will surely be easier to cut the T-slots in than the HRS I used on mine.
I would suggest that when you make your T-slot cutters, you make the bottom surface of them slightly dish shaped. Will be a lot easier on the cutter. Try to choose your worm and gear so it will give you easy divisions, if possible.
Good luck,
Dean
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What a great project looking forward to following it, you'll have a real handy bit of kit when its finished.
Have fun
Stew
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Being a rank amateur at machining, I am going to attack this build from that perspective. I could probably save up a few bucks, and purchase a rotary table from HF, or E-Bay, that would meet my needs, but where’s the fun in that? Or, I could buy all the parts and materials, and throw it together, but I doubt there would be any cost savings over buying a HF unit, and a lot less satisfaction.
I will use the build write-up from Dean Williams’ site as a reference and giude.
I went out to the shop this morning to start gathering materials. The first worm/gear set I mentioned are not suitable, as they are at the wrong angle. The second worm gear set has possibilities, but will require some work to be functional.
The incline screw from the treadmill could be the donor for the worm gear, by cutting off a piece, boring through it and adding a set screw to mount it on a smaller shaft. This has the benefit of being the same thread pitch as the change wheels on my mini lathe.
I have ¼” plate in aluminum and steel, and 3/8” in steel. The trick will be to find 4” square tube of sufficient wall thickness, or a suitable substitute.
For the rotating part, the treadmill motor flywheels will not work as they are dished with fins, and not solid 1” thick rounds. The thickest part on one is only ¼ “. So I’m back to finding a 4” round of something 1-1 ½” thick.
I include all these thoughts and decisions to show other armatures the process I’m going through.
As with any posting on this board, I welcome suggestions and comments.
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I'll be up in Oak Ridge next weekend. Anywhere near you?
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Chuck, a few suggestions;
Do you have usable welding skills? If so, you could weld up two pieces of angle iron or four pieces of flat iron to make the base. Then square and true it on the mill. If welding is not an option, you could screw these pieces together. The 1/4" wall square tubing I used is a standard structural size. You may be able to get a scrap piece at a welding fab shop for a couple bucks.
You can sometimes find worm and gear sets on ebay at a fair price.
I mentioned it in the article, but it's worth repeating. Try to find round stock to use for the table. I used a piece of flame cut HRS flat plate, and it was a chore to bring to size. Lots of tool sharpening exercise getting rid of the flame cut.
The large bearing is pretty cheap at NAPA. About $9 for bearing and race.
Hopefully a few other guys will chime in with material suggestions. Getting everything gathered and scrounged up is half the battle!
What size is your lathe?
Dean
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KVOM, I'm in E. TN, near Kingsport.
Dean, I didn't realize you were on this list! Great article on the rotary table. I have a 7x14 Micromark Lathe and an HF X2 mill. I spent yesterday working on the cross slide travel mod for the lathe. Had the materials for that at hand and figured I'd need the extra travel to work the table.
Got the cross slide milled out, and the spacer made, but messed up on the lead screw extention. My crap-o-cad working drawing confused me... I'll have a new start on the screw extention tonight.
It's o'dark early here, the dog has a possum cornered in the back yard and won't leave it be. Got to go intervene...
Chuck in E. TN
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Got the 4" square tube, 4" round stopc, and 3/8" plate. Only problem, I didnt pay attention to the dimentions. Got a lot of facing/milling to get to size!
Chuck in E. TN
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You'll get it, Chuck. Just more practice making chips!
Dean
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If I may make a few suggestions on the subject of materials for a rotary table:-
For the rotary bit look for a lathe face plate with T slots. I used one to make a rotatable vice mount on my shaper.
Cast iron exercise weights from the local fitness store are an easy source of material although for a rotary table you might have to somehow sandwich a couple together. Incidently, if you are using these for anything it is a good idea to use a cold chisel to knock the lettering off before mounting in the lathe to true it up.
It is not very difficult to make a worm and wheel especially if you are satified with a aluminium wheel. I wrote a topic on this at http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=1773.0 (http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=1773.0)
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Being a rank amateur at machining, I am going to attack this build from that perspective. I could probably save up a few bucks, and purchase a rotary table from HF, or E-Bay, that would meet my needs, but where’s the fun in that? Or, I could buy all the parts and materials, and throw it together, but I doubt there would be any cost savings over buying a HF unit, and a lot less satisfaction.
I will use the build write-up from Dean Williams’ site as a reference and giude.
I went out to the shop this morning to start gathering materials. The first worm/gear set I mentioned are not suitable, as they are at the wrong angle. The second worm gear set has possibilities, but will require some work to be functional.
The incline screw from the treadmill could be the donor for the worm gear, by cutting off a piece, boring through it and adding a set screw to mount it on a smaller shaft. This has the benefit of being the same thread pitch as the change wheels on my mini lathe.
I have ¼” plate in aluminum and steel, and 3/8” in steel. The trick will be to find 4” square tube of sufficient wall thickness, or a suitable substitute.
For the rotating part, the treadmill motor flywheels will not work as they are dished with fins, and not solid 1” thick rounds. The thickest part on one is only ¼ “. So I’m back to finding a 4” round of something 1-1 ½” thick.
I include all these thoughts and decisions to show other armatures the process I’m going through.
As with any posting on this board, I welcome suggestions and comments.
A long time ago, I made a very simple rotary table out of half inch plate steel, milling two half inch slots half way through one round plate, crossing in the middle, and milling two one inch slots across the other plate, crossing in the middle, using dowel pins and countersunk screws to hold the two plates together, with the in slots parked right over the half inch slots, and facing down, and milling half inch slots through to the inch slots, finishing the T slots without a cutter, and without a machine heavy enough to cut T-slots, using only a drill press and x-y table to mill it with. You can use an ordinary 14&1/2 degree spur gear and an acme thread cut to match the pitch diameter, if you don't mind the shaft being at the helix angle of the acme thread. for what it's worth, mad jack
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I actually went to a machine/fab shop and got 4" round, 4" square tube, and 3/8" plate cut. I messed up and ordered the 4" round at 2" thick. I may take it back and see if they can slice it in half...( can they?)
I have given thought to the reply from John Hill and I think I will duplicate the nose of my minilathe spindle as the mounting hub to make mounting the lathe face plate, and chucks a snap. Thanks for the inspiration, John.
I'm tied up in s few other interuptions at the moment, my lawn tractor deck tore up last night, and more stuff came in for the DRO-550 today.
Plus, I just finished the minilathe cross slide travel mod in preparation for turning 4" stock.
I also have to make the T-slot cutter per Deans build. Never done anything like that before.
Sorry for the slow progress folks. But I will get 'er done!
Chuck in E. TN
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I pass a small machine shop daily on the ride to work. I stopped in Friday and had them slice my 4" round in half. Now I have 2ea, 1" thick pieces of 4" round.
Got my DRO-550 up and running today, that will help with the table.
I'm still thinking on duplicating the nose of my lathe spindle.
Chuck in E. TN
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I'm proceeding with a plan to duplicate my lathe spindle from a cast iron flywheel from a treadmill. I have it chucked on the lathe and am trying turn off the fins. I am not having much trouble, but the hhs tool contacting the fins is making a ringing noise. How aggressive should I get turning the fins off? I know its an interrupted cut, and I think I should be using the carriage lock.
Any other ideas?
Chuck in E. TN
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Only thing I can come up with is to use an angle grinder and grind the fins down to where you won't have much of an interupted cut. Might be a bit messy but should work.
Bernd
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If the fins are cast iron it might be easy to take them off with a cold chisel.
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I cut the fins off with a hack saw. After resharpening the tool bit, it cleaned up nicely. Pics tomorrow.
Chuck in E. TN
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I cut the fins off with a hack saw. After resharpening the tool bit, it cleaned up nicely. Pics tomorrow.
Chuck in E. TN
All right, great. :thumbup:
Bernd
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Time I got back to work on the rotary table. Here's the materials I have gathered to date.
4" x 4" x 3/8" crs plate
4" x 2" square tube
4" x 1" round steel
3 1/2" x 1 1/2" round steel
bearing from treadmill roller
worm from treadmill incline
I turned a bolt to be a sliding fit to the bearing for an axle. Today I was looking over the parts wondering which worm set up to use. I placed the 80 tooth change gear from my lathe next to the worm screw and wohoo! It fit! Next, I tried the fit of the gear on the axil, WOHOO! Twice in a row, it fit! Is that beginners luck or what!
Now to think about which gear to actually use in the RT. A 60 tooth gear would give me 6° resolution; an 80 tooth gear, 4.5°, right?
I'll ask for recommendations on the choice of gears, as long as it is a mini lathe change gear...
Now I feel confident this is doable for me!
I am going to turn the 3 1/2" round to be a duplicate of my minilathe spindle nose so I can easily use my 4" independant jaw chuck, 3" 3 jaw chuck, or faceplate.
So, today, I will work on the spindle nose and on cutting off a piece of the worm screw and making an axle for it..
I have a couple of skare bearings set aside for the worm screw axil, also. I have posted pictures here: http://s571.photobucket.com/albums/ss157/chucketn/Machining/Rotary%20Table/
By the way, how do you put pictures into posts?
And, forgot to add, I gave up on using the tradmill flywheel when I got the big disk sawn in half.
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Duh! Found the insert image button... But, can't make it work!
So far today, Ive made the worm, and it's axle, and trimmed up the square tube. I learned one thing, I won't be going back to the machine shop that first cut my materials... The square tube was way out of square on the cut...
Had fun experimenting with the clamping kit to secure the square tube on the table.
Pieces made today added to my photobucket site.
Chuck in E. TN
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Hi Chuck, lucky is right. Good luck with the rrest of her. My RT has a 90 to 1 ratio and I feel this is ok... however, its the only one ive ever owned so my experience is limited.
Get into them pictures man...
Cheers
Rob T
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Hi Chuck,
You are nearly there with the pics. Have one browser window open to compose your post, and another open and showing whichever Photobucket album your pics are in. Compose your post. When you get to the point where a pic is to go, click on the image button (under the I for Italic one) and {img][/img] will appear in your post, but with a square rather than a wriggly bracket at the front, and your cursor flashing in the middle. Now transfer to the Photobucket album and hover the cursor over the pic you want. Four boxes will appear below. Click on the text in the bottom IMG box, which will turn blue. Then right-click and choose the Copy option.
Return your browser to your message where the cursor is still flashing between the brackets, right-click on it and choose the Paste option. That will insert the code you copied into your message, between the img and the /img. Click Preview under your message, and scroll up to the preview pane, where you should see your photo in glorious Technicolor. Scroll back down to the message pane to continue your post.
It's a good idea to put a carriage return before the {img] and after the [/img].
Good Luck!
80T would be awkward on your rotary table. It would be better to choose 40, 60 or 60T, so that one turn will move things by a whole number of degrees. 80T and 4.5o might make it hard to keep track of your dial. The more teeth, the finer the resolution on the dial, but the longer it will take to crank the table round to the required position. Unless, that is, you make the worm disconnectable so you can grab the table and twist it round.
Andy
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Hi Chuck;
Looks like you've got most of the materials rounded up. Sometimes that's half the battle!
I have a 60t gear on mine, and since it's the only one I have, I'm very used to it. A 72t is probably the
easiest to use, since it gives 5° per turn of the hand wheel, but I do fine with the 60t, and wouldn't
hesitate to use it again.
If your photos are in Photobucket, you don't have to do anything but copy and past. You don't need to
use the IMG tags, as Pbucket puts them in automatically. Check it out:
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b159/deansofidaho/pbucketexample.jpg)
When you scroll over your pics, a drop down selection will appear under each one. Click on the one that
says "IMG code", then copy it, and simply paste it directly into your post. That's it.
From the example above, here's what you get by just pasting that bit in:
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b159/deansofidaho/diemark.jpg)
So, show us the pics! : )
Dean
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If your photos are in Photobucket, you don't have to do anything but copy and past. You don't need to
use the IMG tags, as Pbucket puts them in automatically. Check it out:
Thanks for the correction, Dean :thumbup: . I was getting mixed up with inserting pics in posts to Yahoo groups.
Chuck, I don't think a 72T gear is a standard mini-lathe part, but mini-lathe gears are metric Module 1, so you could get a 72T from a gear supplier.
Andy
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Hi Chuck, welcome and good luck. I've got a 72 tooth rotary table and I'm quite pleased with it, but you don't have to buy an expensive gear to make one. You can use the method of dropping verticals to set up a blank round piece for an index plate with seventy two holes, make a cutter for a flycutter, to cut the teeth, and make your own gear. Take a piece of light card stock such as a shirt box, make a strip which precisely fits around the outside of your blank, the larger the easier and more accurate spacing, lay this strip down on a flat work table you can put pin pricks in without causing a war with the wife, take a yard stick or longer measuring device that is longer than the strip, figure out which marks you can count out seventy two of, and have the end of the yard stick on one end of the strip, and the seventy secondth mark vertically in line using a square, with the other end of the strip, with both the strip and the yard stick well attached to the work table, use a straight edge under the strip, a square setting on the straight edge, and move it to line up with the chosen mark on the yard stick which should be at an angle to the strip, and draw a line down perpendicular to the strip, ending up with seventy one lines, and the two ends connected together being the seventy second line. This secured to the blank will allow you to index the blank, and drill indexing holes for positive stops to cut the teeth. Choose a gear pitch that meets your size expectations before laying this all out, and then you can use the gear tooth profiles in any good gear book or machinery's handbook, and grind a bit to match what is shown, which will cut well if carefully done. The blank its self can be drilled, a temporary angle plate jig set up, with a pin to match the hole circle, and the teeth cut on the blank. If you set the angle plate at the pitch angle of the worm you intend to use, chosen to match the pitch of the gear, the worm can be perpendicular to the gear, otherwise it will have to be set up at that pitch angle, to get it to interface with the gear. It is worth the trouble to get the worm perpendicular, usually. I just used this method, essentially, to make a replacement gear of fifty one teeth for a machine which wore all the teeth off its worm gear. You can use a large round piece of plywood for a temporary table for your drill press, and thus have the spacing of the dropped marks wider, and easier to make accurately, with the blank attached to the wood and drilled after you attach the strip to the plywood. I'd be happy to answer any questions regarding this, although I believe there is at least one place in this website where this has been demonstrated. :thumbup: mad jack
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If your photos are in Photobucket, you don't have to do anything but copy and past. You don't need to
use the IMG tags, as Pbucket puts them in automatically. Check it out:
Thanks for the correction, Dean :thumbup: . I was getting mixed up with inserting pics in posts to Yahoo groups.
Andy
Oh! Andy, I didn't mean to be "correctional". All these forums seem to use different software to decide how they want pictures.
It's confusing!
Regards,
Dean
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Oh! Andy, I didn't mean to be "correctional". All these forums seem to use different software to decide how they want pictures.
It's confusing!
Regards,
Dean
No worries, Dean - my post was a bit misleading, and needed correcting - as you rightly pointed out, I was overcomplicating the process.
Chuck, it's time you tried out a pic or two!
Andy
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O.K. Here's the pic's so far.
The Collected materials:
(http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss157/chucketn/Machining/Rotary%20Table/RTMaterials.jpg)
I got the origional 4" round split again:
(http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss157/chucketn/Machining/Rotary%20Table/Bigdisksplit.jpg)
This is the worm set I started with. Also shown are the axil for the rotating part and the bearings that will be used.
(http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss157/chucketn/Machining/Rotary%20Table/Selectedwormandgear-1.jpg)
I cut a piece off the treadmill elevation screw, bored it to fit an axil that would also fit a skate bearing.
Worm on the axil:
(http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss157/chucketn/Machining/Rotary%20Table/wormandbox.jpg)
The worm gear shown is an 80 tooth change gear from my lathe. I may go with a 60 tooth change gear, or develope a method of using either?
Photo bucket does make it easier when you figure it out!
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I am having problems turning the copy of my lathe’s spindle nose. I’m getting heavy chatter, digging in and even stalling the lathe. I made a rookie mistake by not asking the machine shop I got the piece from, what material it was.
I have reground bits, honed and reground the HHS bits again. I have tightened all the cross slide and compound gibs. The cross slide and compound have been lapped.
I am currently turning it at 300-320 rpm, and chips are short, curly, hot and blue.
I’m wondering if I need to invest in an indexable carbide tool set for this piece.
Any suggestions?
(http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss157/chucketn/Machining/Rotary%20Table/spindlenose.jpg)
Chuck in E. TN
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I'm a newb too. But blue chips from HSS tooling doesn't sound good. Hva you tried reducing the speed further? Or maybe smaller depths of cut?
Carbide tooling would probably help, but make sure you get tools that use positive rake inserts, they cut much easier than the zero rake inserts. Should make a differnce if you have already had issues with stalling the lathe.
Nice project btw. :thumbup:
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Hi Chuck
As Trion said ,,,, Plus make sure if you lathe uses V-belts that they are tight , as slippage will cause poor finish and dig in , as the belt slips then re-grips ,,, you could if possible try and get the tail stock centre up to give the work a bit more support .
Regards Rob
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What a difference a day or two makes! I took a couple days off the RT project to plant my veggie patch, and to think about the issues.
Today I started out using lighter cuts, and cutting oil. After again changing and honing bits, and using cutting oil, I managed to finish the registration face of the nose.
(http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss157/chucketn/Machining/Rotary%20Table/spindlenose2.jpg)
I still had some chatter, and even managed to stall the lathe a few more times, but progress was better. You can see the chatter marks in the pic, but I'm still in the function/fit mode rather than pretty mode.
Next, I’ll flip the nose over in the chuck and attack the undercut for the nuts to attach the faceplate or chuck. Then, transfer the bolt circle, drill and bore for the axel, counter bore for the washer and SHCS to hold the nose on the axel.
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Chuck,
I'd get another piece of material. SOunds like you've checked all the possibilities. Have you tried another material to make sure it's not the lathe?
Bernd
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Hi Chuck;
Making some progress!
That chunk of steel you got hold of is probably common HRS (A36) or something like 1018 CRS. Neither are very friendly to smaller
lathes. They will surly cut fine, but smaller machines will want things to be "just so" to keep it from causing you headaches.
By the amount of chatter in your earlier pic of this stuff in the chuck, it could be the belt, like Rob says. There are a number of other
things to check, like gibs and your tool height. If your tool is truly sharp, then check the front clearance on it to make sure you have
enough. Also, this kind of steel doesn't like to be plowed by the tool tip. By that I mean, the side of the tool that travels toward the
chuck needs to be at less than 90° to the work piece.
If it's possible, try to use something other than the 80t gear. Either 72, 60, 30, or 90 will give you an even division when you go to
make your graduated dial, and will make your calculations much easier. The 80t gear will give you 4½° per rotation. Not handy at
all. If you use 72t, it will give you an even 5° per turn of the hand wheel. For 60t you get 6°, for 30 you get 12° and for 90 you get 4°.
Much handier to count up whole numbers when you go to index full degrees. A 72t would probably be best, but you have a 60t there
and that would still work fine.
Just something to think about.
Thanks for the progress report!
Dean
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More problems. While hogging metal off the spindle nose replica with a carbide tool from my inherited tool collection, the lathe started running rough, like a V8 with a loose spark plug wire…
I checked high and low range, same thing. Like someone was playing with the power switch, intermittent clunking and loss of power.
Since my lathe is a MicroMark with steel gears, I’m hoping it’s a bit of swarf in the gears somewhere. Today a tear-down and clean up, and I’ll see what’s up.
I like the idea of a 72 tooth gear, Dean, but I’m not yet set up for gear cutting. I’m wondering if it’s worth working out a system to be able to change the gears used. I’d have to come up with a way to move the worm in relation to the gear. Maybe the answer is to go with a 60 tooth.
Anyway, out to the shop for some lathe diagnostics…
Chuck in E. TN
PS: I seem to have trouble with previewing my posts here to check spelling, etc. When I hit preview, the post I composed disappears! I’ve gotten into the habit of composing the post in Word, copying and pasting to the post box. That way, if it disappears, I can do it again
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Stick to a tooth count that divides into 360, Chuck. As has already been said, 80T will result in it being hard to keep track of your dial. 60T would be a good choice if you wanted to include a detent in the rotab for simple direct indexing, where it would work for dividing circles by 2,3,4,5,6,10,12,15,20 and 30. Out of all the numbers you are likely to need in direct indexing, only 8 is missing.
As to previewing posts, I think that normal operation is to compose your post, then click Preview and scroll up to see the preview pane above the toolbars containing all the smileys, dancing girls etc. You can't amend in the preview pane, but can scroll back down to the "compose" pane and make any adjustments before finally clicking on Post. Forgive me if this is too elementary, but are you scrolling back down again after previewing?
Andy
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Well, the lathe is fixed. A thorough inspection revealed the gears are fine.
Checked the controller connections, as that was a problem before. They were all tight. Checked the motor brush on the front side, naturally the hardest to get to, and the cap holding the brush had broken again. Previously I had glued the halves back to gether. Both brush caps were cracked, so I replaced them. I had ordered spares after the last failure. Oddly, as hard as I have used this lathe, I could see no difference in the origional brushes, and the new replacements!
Put the machine back to gether and fired it up. Nothin! Power lights came on, no fault light, but no movement either.
Took the controller back off and checked all the connections again. Nothing loose. Reassembled and still nothing. Took the controller off again and checked for burned components. This time I noticed one lead of the 4K ohm power resister was broken. Got out the soldering iron and added a piece of wire for a repair.
Reassembled and the old girl came to life again. No bumps, thumps, as smooth as a Cadilac at idle! Back in business.
Chuck in E. TN
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While troubleshooting my MicroMark 7x14 for jerky opperation, I found the controller (XMT-1135) had a lead broken on the Power Resistor. Anyone have the specs on this resistor? It's R17 on the board. I measured it with a multimeter at 3.84 K ohms. Color code is Orange, White, Red, Silver, indicating 3.9 k ohms at 10%.
What I need is the power rating.
My SWAG is (120vx120v)/3900 ohms=5 watt would be suffiient.
Chuck in E.TN
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I continue to have trouble posting. I compose the post, and when I hit the post button it disappears!
Anyway, the Rotary Table is functioning! Rough as a cob, and needing a dial, scale, crank handle, clamps, and bearings added to the worm screw, but it works, and I built it! The first job was to drill the bolt circle for the spindle nose piece. I have torn it down and refined the registration face as it was a bit tight. But, the face plate, and chucks fit.
I will spend time refining it more, and I want to shorten the body by ¾”, shorten the spindle nose, and the spindle axis. I will probably remake the top plate also, as I had to offset it ¼” to fit the worm.
Here’s a video of it clamped to the mill table, and being rotated via my cordless drill.
(http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss157/chucketn/Machining/Rotary%20Table/th_DSCF0956.jpg) (http://s571.photobucket.com/albums/ss157/chucketn/Machining/Rotary%20Table/?action=view¤t=DSCF0956.flv)
Thanks to all those who commented, made suggestions, and provided moral support through this project.
And thanks especially to Dean for posting his excellent project that was my inspiration.
Chuck in E. TN
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Way to go, Chuck!
I really like this part: "..but it works, and I built it!". What a neat thing, huh?
I don't know about your resistor question.
What kind of browser are you using to put up your posts? I have Firefox, and it works like you'd expect.
When I hit the preview, the new post pops in above the box you type in. Hope you get it figured out.
I wish I knew how to get a Photobucket video to show up in the post the way you've done it. Every time I
try that, it puts what looks like a video frame in the post, but when you click on it, it opens a new window in
Photobucket. That bugs me!
Thanks for the update. You sound happy!
Dean
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Hi Dean, a couple things, to get your postings down, go to my build log, the nine cylinder radial, in the beginning, as I had the same problems, and was aided very well by Cedge, who explained and demonstrated how to get pictures from photobucket posted with minimum problems, and real clarity. With regard to tooth count, I would strongly echo all the advice, and stay away from that eighty tooth gear. I'm satisfied with my table with seventy two, but would have prefered 90, looking back. If you'd like, I can run a log on how to index a plate, and use it to cut a ninety tooth gear, or for that matter, a seventy two tooth. When I had to make a couple of dials for a couple machines, I ran across a two hundred tooth plywood blade for a Skillsaw, and bought it for about three bucks, and made a simple indexing arrangement in my lathe spindle to index the dials with a hundred lines of three different lengths, if you found such a blade at Wally world or the like, that was a multiple of either 72 or 90, putting a blank on a spindle between centers on your mill, and cutting the teeth with a flycutter ground to fit the eighty tooth gear you have with some calculated "slop" to compensate for the slight difference in tooth count, you'd be in like Flynn. If you can't, like I said, I'd be glad to lay out the means, and put it up in a log. You are not going to want to redo this later, and if you use the eighty tooth gear, you will curse it often as you look back and still conclude you don't want to redo it, none the less, you will be happier with what you have, and doing it, than doing without because you don't have exactly what you want. I almost made a rotary table with a 39 tooth worm wheel, but resisted for years because it would only be good with special calculations each and every time it got used. Again, read through the beginning of my engine log and you'll find good clear instructions on putting up pictures and posting that work for this non-computer mechanic. :headbang: :lol: mad jack
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Last night I turned a pair of bearing holders for the worm axil. Today I made a clamp set from 1 1/2" steel angle. and milled slots in the body of the RT to clamp it flat and vertical. I'll post pictures later.
Dean, I added the video to my post from Photobucket, just like adding a regular picture. I save the video from my camera to the album, I Clicked on the img code box and copied the code and pasted it into the post.
I don't know what it is about clicking preview, sometimes it works fine and my preview window apears above the post composition window, sometimes the post reply page just disapears.. Seems to disapear if I compose a long post directly without using word to compose and copy/past to the post window...
mad jack, I did go with the 60 tooth gear. Next, I think I will start over on the top plate, if I can figure out how to locate the bearing so the axil and thus the gear are positioned correctly to the worm.
So far, I have learned lots, broken a drill bit, a tap, and a 1/8 end mill. Material costs total $24, broken tools about $15, and I have a basic RT!
I'm really enjoying this!
Chuck in E. TN
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Hi Dean, a couple things, to get your postings down, go to my build log,
Hi Jack; I don't have any troubles with stills and Youtube stuff. It was the Photobucket Videos that didn't do right. They put a frame in the post just like Chuck had in his earlier post with his R/T Movie, but when you click on them, it goes to Pbucket to show it. It just bugged me!
Anyway, I think Chuck has me straightened out on that. Thanks, you two!
Glad you settled on the 60t gear. It will make things worlds better for you than that 80t beast! It makes it more like using a lathe dial when the numbers all come out even. Less chance to make a bad mistake trying to count half turns and all that nonsense.
I type up all my long posts for my project threads in Notepad, too. Just in case...
Keep on having fun!
Dean
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Well Chuck, its good to hear you decided on the sixty tooth, I think it will make you happy in the long run, those little glitches like broken drills and taps don't matter much when the project works and meets the challenge you put before yourself, with success. You'll probably spend more time making tooling and accessories for it, than you spent making the table its self, before you're done I wager. I wish I had v-belts to worry about slipping, my flat belts slip all the time, and I'm looking at putting in a transmission from a lawn tractor so I can shift gears instead of deciding what pulley I want my flat belt to "slip on for this turning". As far as the resistor goes, if it is about three eights long in the body, with coaxial leads and a color code, it is a quarter watt resistor. If it looks the same only twice the size, as in a little longer in the body than half an inch, and with coaxial leads and color code on it, it's a half watt resistor. If it's a power resistor with real current requirements/limitations, it will be a rectangular block of ceramic with a wire wound resistor inside, and ceramic goop fired across covering the wire, and its resistance and power rating would be printed on the "top" of the ceramic block. If you have problems finding the right one, e-mail me, and I probably have one I can send you, being as you're in Tennessee, and just a few hours away. By the way, if it is a quarter watt resistor, and it burned out, replacing it with a half watt would be a good idea. I spent about thirty odd years in electronics so I probably have the parts you need, or at least know of easy access. let me know, I'd be happy to help. good job on the table, and good to see you have it under your belt, so to speak :mmr: I like this club :headbang: mad jack