MadModder
The Shop => Tools => Topic started by: sbwhart on October 02, 2009, 12:23:55 PM
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So far I've got these bits towards a Tool Post Grinder:- A sub spindle made her
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=1790.0 and a small electric motor
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2541.jpg)
First job work out some pulley sizes to give me the speed ranges I want 4000 rpm for external and 14000 for internal.
Motor pulley turned up.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2529.jpg)
I'm going to use 3/16 redthane belting, to cut the belt groove I will use a method John suggested, that is to mill it with a 3/16 end mill.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2532.jpg)
With the pulley still in place the chuck was removed from the lathe and mounted on my RT, then the cutter was fed in from the side and the RT rotated to cut the groove.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2534.jpg)
Worked like a charm it gave me an accurately cut 3/16 radius groove.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2539.jpg)
And here's the pulley on the motor, just need to drill and tap it for a fixing grub screw and to chew out some of the meat from the middle to bring the weight down.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2542.jpg)
Have fun
Stew
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Don't mince it out Stew.
Because you have a fairly small motor, the flywheel effect might help a bit if you hit a high spot.
Very nicely done BTW.
John
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This one is looking more tempting all the time.
Like the way you did the small round groove.
Gerhard
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Nicely done Stew :thumbup:
This however brings me to raise a question gentlemen :dremel: .......... I have an old Boxford "Little Giant" toolpost grinder, it runs just fine, but it uses a flat belt, looks like the sort of stuff they band stuff on pallets with, and the pulleys are convex ................ I have no spare belt and the one on there doesn't fill me with confidence, so ........ has anyone any info on these belts or would I be better making new pulleys and using similar belting to Stew ............... :scratch:
Thoughts appreciated chaps :beer: ................ I think ::)
CC
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Hi CC
John as one of those boxford tool post grinder with flat belts I bet he knows where to get them from :D
Stew
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Stew,
I bet you a fiver John doesn't.
My Boxford 'Little Giant' came with two belts, and they will last me until I snuff it.
John
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Stew,
I bet you a fiver John doesn't.
My Boxford 'Little Giant' came with two belts, and they will last me until I snuff it.
John
Whoops thats my beer money gone for this month :lol:
Stew
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So ............. it looks like plan "B" then :smart:
CC
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Nice 1 Stew, this is shaping, or should that be milling up nicely!
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Hey Stew - I like your method of grooving out the pulley. When I did mine and did the research I only saw it done on the lathe using a profile tool, never seen it done in the mill using a RT! I guess this would only work for round belts like you are using?
Chris
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That way of grooving is an old technique that I showed people how to do when they wanted to make the bending rolls for small tubing benders. It is a perfect method for small half rounds, or even big ones.
Grinding up a round nose tool of exactly the right size and shape for use on the lathe is a real PITA. Doing it on the mill is like a walk in the park, just find the right sized cutter and away you go.
Bogs
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Ok now for the spindle pulley.
So that everything will run concentric, I turned a mandrel that is a nice fit on the bore of the pulley.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2543.jpg)
Bolted the blank pulley to it.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2545.jpg)
Then moved the chuck with everything still in place over to the RT and milled the belt grooves as before.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2546.jpg)
Here's a little tip:- Keys set into shafts can be a bit of a bitch to get hold of to remove, put a little groove in one end of the key so you can prise it out with a small screw driver.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2549.jpg)
Next job cut some plate out for the base. I'm using some ally jig plate I picked up from the scrappy.
Find a bit of plate that doesn't have an existing hole in a strategic position.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2552.jpg)
Then with a jig saw with a metal cutting blade and with some help from WD 40 cut the bits out, if any one asks what the extra holes are for I'll tell them its to keep the weight down. 0 ::)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2553.jpg)
Ok first job with the bits of plate is to clean the burrs off as well as I can.
Then set a parallel up square on the mill table.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2556.jpg)
And with the best edge hard up against the parallel clean up one edge, then with this cleaned edge up against the parallel clean the next edge up etc etc until all all four edges have been cleaned up are are square with each other, its easyer to start with things square than to try and get them square later.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2555.jpg)
This is the plate cleaned and squared up, the smaller piece will make the grinding spindle mountings.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2558.jpg)
And as its always nice to see how things are looking this will give you an idea of how the finished job will look.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2557.jpg)
Ok thats it for know the Grand prix is on the box the family have bets on which lap I'll fall sleep on, my record is the warmup lap.
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Stew
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Looking great Stew.
Just think of all those nice precision finishes and truing up you will be able to achieve.
Next time you call round, ask me for a dressing diamond, if you already haven't got one.
John
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That really is looking quite good now Stew, there is a sewing machine motor for sale near me.
Shame it's attached to the rest of the machine though ..... :doh:
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Ok now to mount the spindle:-
The chunk of plate was cut in half to make the two mounting, the cut ends cleaned up with the two clamped together so that they would be the same length. At each end of the mounting a 1/4 hole was drilled right through and followed by a 10mm drill 20 mm deep to take the head of the cap head, then the base plate was drilled 1/4 BSF:- why BSF well that was the size of the only cap screws I had that were long enough to go through the mountings into the plate.
I used the tapping feature on mY X3 to tap the holes:- getting more confident in doing this.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2559.jpg)
Now to open up the mounting to take the spindle, I could have done this in the four jaw just clamp the two plate together set them up in the four jaw and drill and bore them out to size as a pair, for a grinding spindle this would have got them close enough on the lathe centre height. But I though I'd do it another way that would get thing dead on centre, this is the best way for any of you making a cross hole drilling sub spindle.
Clamp the base onto the lathe tool post get it square.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2560.jpg)
Get it positioned clamp the cross slide up, then centre drill followed by bigger and bigger drill, this is the biggest drill in my armory 13/16 " .
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2561.jpg)
Then swap over to the boring head. To start with I took 1 mm ish cuts then as I got closer to size 0.5 mm cuts then 0.25 mm cuts until I was within 0.3 of size then I just ran this cut through 2 or 3 times to take the spring out.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2565.jpg)
Used the flash on this shot to freeze the action love the curl of swarf.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2568.jpg)
Thats it a nice snug fit
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2570.jpg)
I may split the mounting down the centre to make pinch clamps on the bearing, but I realy have got a nice fit so I'm thinking of just drilling and tapping for a grub screw to fix things.
Thats it for now
Stew
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Stew,
This is coming along really nicely. Great pics and nice write up too.
Nick
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Thanks Nick
I'm quite enjoying making it: I've had to use quite a few machining techniques you don't use too often.
Cheers
Stew
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I'm quite enjoying making it
I can tell :thumbup: ................ nice going mate :beer: cracking work
CC
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Quite a reach on that boring tool Stew, did it chatter any :scratch:
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Hi Darren
No it didn't chatter with the big cuts it gave a nice parallel finish, but I did get some chatter when I was doing the finish cuts taking the spring out of the bar, but having said that the finish was still quite good.
I've used the boring head with those boring bars a number of times and I've always been presently surprised at the result:- they are very easy to get an accurate result with.
I think I got them from RDG.
Cheers
Stew
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Now to open up the mounting to take the spindle, I could have done this in the four jaw just clamp the two plate together set them up in the four jaw and drill and bore them out to size as a pair, for a grinding spindle this would have got them close enough on the lathe centre height. But I though I'd do it another way that would get thing dead on centre, this is the best way for any of you making a cross hole drilling sub spindle.
That is a really good way of boring the mounting exactly on lathe centre height :thumbup: :thumbup: , I'll file that away for future reference as I'd like to make a toolpost grinder at some point in the future, thanks Stew :thumbup:
Tim
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I decided to clamp the spindle in the mountains with a couple of M6 grub screws I put a 4mm drill down the end of the grub screws and superglued a little slug of brass into for the screw to tighten down onto so it won't mark the spindle.
Then I made the mounting plate for the motor. I used a bit of 1/4" thick ally plate, it was a mater of drilling holes where required along with a bit of filing.
This is it fitted to the motor
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2572.jpg)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2573.jpg)
It certainly looks the part as for working well yes and no for the lower speed pulley selection it seem to work OK, but when I swap it over to the higher speed pulley selection it slowly turn over and starts to let the smoke out I guess the motor is stalling. It just doesn't have the humf to drive the faster speed, I guess the spindle is to heavy for the motor, I was a bit uncertain about the suitability of this small motor, but small motors with the speed (6000 ish RPM) and the HP just don't seem to be out there.
This what was on the motor I tried
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2576.jpg)
Perhaps some of you chaps who understand these thing can point me in the right direction as regard motor selection.
Cheers
Stew
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I have only just noticed that all the posts on this topic are from the UK.
What's wrong lads, cat got your tongue or are you all scared to death of this sort of thing?
I think I have shown this link before for the benefit of our US cousins (or anyone else in the UK who doesn't mind getting a cheapo site transformer to give the 110 volts, about 40 squid). Just in case you don't fancy making one.
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_category.php?category=-1731696149
Stew, if you come round sometime, we can have a root thru the motors I have, we just might find one that will do the trick. But make it during daylight hours, they are in outside storage boxes.
Bogs
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Oh dear Stew, and there's me having just come home with a sewing machine with motor .... :doh:
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Stew,
That motor has a max power output of 90w, which isn't very much anyway, and because that max power comes at 6000rpm this means the torque is very low since power is a function of torque and speed. Because you're gearing up even further, you'll need something with quite a high starting torque. But usually that means sacrificing some speed!
Nick
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Hallo Stew,
this is my very first post here and I’m absolutely not used to publish in English, so have a little mercy with my grammar, its rusty. So I will try to use more pictures and reduce my statements…..ha ha ha…..
Some years ago I began experimenting with sewing machine motors for the same purpose than you, it was really not very satisfying. Cheap okay, but a lot of noise and vibrations too (poor bearings), and the little types up to 90 Watt are too weak for the most of that jobs on the lathe, particular for outer grinding operations with wheels obove 1” diameter.
So, if it has to be a little bit nice, really low vibrating, very compact and silent too what’s about using that type of servo motor:
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/MAD_MODDER/MM_TOOL_POST_GRINDER_04.jpg)
This is a Nanotec DB42 Brushless DC Servo, 48 V, 150 VA, 6000 rpm, and it makes enough power for using 2” to 3” grinding wheels without problems. The only crux is the need of some special servo motor amplifier and a DC power supply. I use the Maxon DEC 50/5 amplifier and a switching power supply 50 V, 6.8 A.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/MAD_MODDER/MM_TOOL_POST_GRINDER_03.jpg)
Normally I use the spindle on my Mini_Bonelle tool and cutter grinder…..
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/MAD_MODDER/MM_TOOL_POST_GRINDER_05.jpg)
but it always does a good job on the lathe too…..
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/MAD_MODDER/MM_TOOL_POST_GRINDER_01.jpg)
Otherwise, for the limited purpose of internal grinding with small tools this little spindle with an Escap 36 V, 70 VA DC motor is really sufficient.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/MAD_MODDER/MM_TOOL_POST_GRINDER_02.jpg)
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/MAD_MODDER/MM_TOOL_POST_GRINDER_06.jpg)
The system is very compact and can be convenient used on even small machines in the class of 13” between centers. Every normal DC power supply with a max. out put of 36 V and 2 A is sufficient to run this high precision motor.
(http://pl-hi.de/JST/MAD_MODDER/MINI-2-SPINDEL-33.jpg)
Bye, Achim from Germany
P.S. more details can by seen on my web site http://www.metallmodellbau.de , sorry, but only German language there
P.P.S. oops...got some problems with linking the pictures??
P.P.P.S...problems with pictures are solveld...ha ha ha
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Stew,
Just been taxing my brain (whats left of it).
I am sure the brown stuff workers will know something about routers.
I bought one once, crippled some brown stuff with it, then duly gave it away.
What I am getting round to is that it had a very compact but super fast powerful motor on it.
It was only a cheapo Black & decker, but the motor was a self contained lift out unit in it's own case, not much larger than the sewing machine one you have already tried.
My neighbour picks them up from the Wednesday morning market car boot sale almost every other week for a couple of squid apiece.
John
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Joachim Steinke - your English is excellent, don`t worry about that. Just been on your website with a translator and your work is absolutely amazing! I`m new to this hobby but I think your designs, pictures and finished products are some of the best I have seen....
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Hi Achim
Thank you for showing your grinder and pointing me in the right direction in regards to motor selection.
Had a look through your site, you have made some wonderful bits of machinery :clap: :clap: :clap:
First class workmanship. :clap: :clap: :clap:
I'm going to go back to your site and have a closer look at some of the things you've done.
Thanks you for showing
Cheers
:beer:
Stew
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Joachim Steinke, welcome to our group and please do not be concerned at your skills in English. I presume you learned your English through careful study at school or university whereas I learned mine from the wife of a shepherd in the mountains of New Zealand and even now 60 years later I would still be like a helpless baby if I tried to speak your language.
I really admire your work and your photography too!
John Bogstandard, I have a rather nice 1/2hp router (superceded by a bigger one) which is getting measured up for the toolpost. The router name plate states 27K RPM and I am wondering what spindle speeds I should be allowing for in my design?
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I am sure the brown stuff workers will know something about routers.
I bought one once, crippled some brown stuff with it, then duly gave it away.
What I am getting round to is that it had a very compact but super fast powerful motor on it.
It was only a cheapo Black & decker, but the motor was a self contained lift out unit in it's own case, not much larger than the sewing machine one you have already tried.
My neighbour picks them up from the Wednesday morning market car boot sale almost every other week for a couple of squid apiece.
John
That is a very good idea, for about 40 quid you can pick up a brand new small 500-900watt variable speed 1/4" collet router, with a speed range of 1000-20000 rpm. Spend a few quid more and you can get over 1100 watts. Some of them even have a standard size of collar ( 43mm as I recall :scratch: ) that can be used for mounting it. Hmm, I think I might have yet another future project :proj:
Tim
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Joachim Steinke
You have some excellent work there and some great ideas. Also, Welcome to the MadModder Forum. There is nothing wrong with your english and since you already know that :worthless: you will have no problem. We hope your stay with us will be enjoyabe and I am sure that we will have much to learn in the future from your posts. :ddb: :ddb:
Cheers :beer:
Don
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Hallo to all,
thank you for your nice replies and encouragement, its really the first time taking an active part in a Anglophone (or some other foreign language) forum for me.
It costs me quite an effort, okay, now I am glad I did it…..ha ha ha……
Bye for tonight, and simply call me Achim, it’s the short form for Joachim
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Some very nice work you have there Achim :bow:
I'm going to try to study your web site, alas my German is about as good as my woodworking skills but the pictures say a thousand words ..... :clap:
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Some very nice work you have there Achim :bow:
I'm going to try to study your web site, alas my German is about as good as my woodworking skills but the pictures say a thousand words ..... :clap:
:offtopic: Daren, Use google to translate, worked for me.
Cheers :beer:
Don
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Welcome to our forum Achim, we all hope you enjoy yourself here :thumbup:
CC
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Achim,
Great stuff there. Welcome to the site and thanks for your input :bow:
Nick
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Lady luck smiled on me yesterday.
Visited an old work friend to pay my Lottery dues, and was telling him about my problems with the sewing machine motor and that I was on the look out for a router, I've got one you can have he said part of the table is broke but the motor stills runs
This is the beast
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2590.jpg)
850 watts variable speed between 11400 and 28000 rpm
First job strip all the bits that get in the way of a tool post grinder, this is what I ended up with.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2591.jpg)
And this little lot to be sorted out and stash away for other jobs.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2592.jpg)
Then spent the morning and some of the afternoon fitting it to the spindle.
And this is what I ended up with.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2593.jpg)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2595.jpg)
Works a treat only problem is the switch its one of those dead man switches but I'm sure I can get that sorted.
Nice one Ian thanks a million :thumbup:
Cheers
Stew
As
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The arrow on the motor suggests that that the spindle turns anticlockwise!
Gerald
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Gerald
Your right didn't spot that.
Thanks
Stew
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Stew
Does it matter?
If the grinder wheel is going opposite to mandrel, just add the two surface speeds, ??
Why should it go clockwise ??
Or have I missed something ??
Dave BC
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As you can reverse the rotation of your chuck Stew, that should make no difference to you.
For external grinding, run the chuck in reverse, for internal, normal rotation, opposite to normal method.
The only thing to keep an eye on is the nuts or chuck that hold the wheels, they would need to be left hand threads.
Bogs
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Reading between the lines here, it seems it would not be a good idea to reverse the router ...... or the chuck might/would come undone ..... :zap:
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Nice find Stew :thumbup: .............. as for the switch it's simple enough I had the same on a router I fixed to a table. I just bypassed the dead man switch and used an in line on off one, though mine went on the wall, your a little more limited :smart:
As for rotation can you use a figure of 8 belt, probably need to offset the pulley a little.
CC
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Thinking about it a little more I guess you are not using the routers chuck, so it probably wouldn't matter if you reversed it anyway .... confused meself now .. :doh:
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.... confused meself now .. :doh:
and me :scratch:
:beer: CC
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Ok,
Wot I'm meaning is this, Stew can reverse the router motor direction because he's not using the routers collet which would come off in reverse direction as the threads would be the wrong handedness ..... I bet that don't help one iota :lol:
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I think it is a good idea to have the sparks going down, less mess. One of my books says to put a tray of water arcross the ways which will catch almost all sparks and grit.
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Why not do away with the spindle and use the router to hold your grind stone. The motor is rated at more than 1 HP and you are able to adjust the speed.
I have an old B&D router which I fit in a block of aluminium bolted to the crosslide. The aluminium block was bored out to suit the boss on the router, using a boring attachment mounted in the headstock spindle, which ensures that it is at centre height.
The collet on the router can accept a 1/4" spindle which means that Clarkson FC3 throwaway cutters can be fitted or suitable grindstones. The motor is rated at 480 watts and runs at 26,000 rpm, which I suspect is the light load speed.
Gerald
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Sorry to have addled your brains a bit lads.
I was refering to the lathe chuck not the router chuck.
The normal method is to have the two grind faces running with each other rather than against. So if the chuck was going in it's normal rotation (anti clockwise), for outside grinding, you would have the grinding wheel running clockwise.
Unless you can reverse toolpost grinder and of course the grinding wheel, then for internal grinding, you should run the chuck in reverse, to get the two faces running together the same way.
The reason for the difference in speeds between internal and external is because of the peripheral speeds of the wheels. Outside grinding uses a larger wheel, so the speed has to be kept lower to keep within the burst limit of the wheel. Inside grinding wheels (usually called a mounted points) are much smaller, so their burst speed is much higher, so are run a lot faster.
Hope I have got it all right.
Bogs
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Hi Chaps
Johns got it spot on correct :thumbup:
By mounting the Router the other way round I can drive the spindle clockwise, this will also give me a better view of the action.
I did think of using the router direct but it had two things going against it:- The lower speed of 11800 rpm is far too high for external grinding and may burst the wheel so I've got to gear it down:- I stripped the motor down and its bearing just wont be up to the job of grinding they are located in a plastic housing.
Cheers
:beer:
Stew
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Stew,
does the chuck on your lathe screw on and off or does it bolt directly to the spindle? I know some of the chester ones do.
Nick
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Nick
The chuck is held on with three M8 cap screws so no fear of it unscrewing.
Stew
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What you need to remember, when toolpost grinding, the grinder is going full tilt, but you only have the job rotating fairly slowly, and the grinding pressure on the job is miniscule, so there is very little chance of your chuck coming undone if run in reverse.
You are only removing very small amounts, maybe only 0.001" (0.02mm) or even less at a time. Some people seem to think it is a quick way to remove metal, far from it.
Bogs
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Yeah, the only time I used a surface grinder I seem to remember taking cuts of 0.0001" ! I made finished off a 4 way tool post I made for a small lathe on it, it made even my machining look good!
Nick
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I bet you thought I'd given up on this, you should know me better than that.
Any way wasn't too happy with the base plate tried to repoistion the motor on it and made a right cock up of it:- it now had more holes than a piece of Swiss cheese.
So re made it and positioned the rotar so that it drove the spindle clock wise.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2596.jpg)
Now to sort out mounting the wheels.
I made some blank quils with a female fixing.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2598.jpg)
To mount the quils the shaft required turning down for a male fixing
To do this I decided to try my ER32 collets on the lathe, I had to turn and drill the adaptor plate so that it would fit the lathe and my RT, for the ER32 mount instead of fitting it on a spigot I just fixed it to a flat face with the three fixing screws, I just nipped up the three screws clock the bore up dead true tighten the screws clocked the bore corrected the error tightend the screws some more so that it was realy tight clock the bore again spot on.
Took the shaft out of the spindle and mounted it in the ER32 clocked it up it was running dead true
Gently turned it down so that the concentricity wouldn't be spoilt.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2599.jpg)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2602.jpg)
I can mount external wheels on this.
Then mounted one of the blank quils to it and turned this down to a Dremel mounting.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2604.jpg)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2607.jpg)
Her it is with the chuck and point in place.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2600.jpg)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2605.jpg)
Thats all for now next job put some spanner flats on the shafts, sort out the dead man switch and thats just about it.
Stew
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Stew, have you run your router motor yet? I have great difficulty in finding a suitable belt for the speeds involved. A 6mm urethane round belt just expands into a big elliptical shape then flies across the room! The most effective so far has been half a dozen individual strands of cotton fishing line.
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Hi John
Yes I've ran the router low and high speeds the radthane belt copes OK, it does throw a curve up on the slack side but so far its been OK, tried loading the system by getting hold of the shaft still ok until my hand starts to burn then I let go. Only fun I had was when I ran it with the bearing too tight I didn't noticed it had picked up on the pully, it burnt the belt through in less than a second.
Cheers
Stew
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Nice going Stew :thumbup:
CC
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OK first trial run, I saw some belts at the midland show for £2 each for the enco lathe just the right size for the grinder and a bit harder rubber so they don't balloon out the same as the redthane belts.
Rigged up a dimond for dressing the wheel (thanks John)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2615.jpg)
For want of something to grind I decided to give my centre punches a clean up.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2617.jpg)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2618.jpg)
And this is the result:- real nice finish and good sharp point.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2627.jpg)
Quite pleased on how it went :thumbup:
I think I need another way of mounting the internal points other than the dremel collets system I've got.
But that job can wait until its required.
Cheers
Stew
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Very nice Stew,
Very inspiring :bow:
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Stew,
You can't be that far off regrinding your endmills, add another angle, index the lathe chuck ?
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Darren
Thats my next project, I think I'll call it the "Potty Tool and Cutter Grinder" :lol:
I wont be using the lathe, and I don't think I'll be using the tool post grinder, I'll be using something far more simple. I will use:- a Table, a Verticle slide, a bench grinder, a Stevenson Indexer, all put together using the sony walkman school of design principles.
:D
Stew
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Nice one Stew, that is one of this clutch working, are any more members having any luck.
With regards to the Dremel chuck, I thought I had advised you to use a pin chuck. A normal chuck will try to vibrate itself apart and come loose very easily, and also it would soon lose it's accuracy because it is a nice haven for grinding dust to settle inside it.
But well done on your success.
John
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Hi John
You did indeed advice a pin chuck, but I stubidly though you ment the dremel pin chuck, having fitted one I soon realised I got it wrong I'll have to have a look at what you mean by pin chuck.
Thanks
Stew
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No gears or key on a pin chuck Stew, just a threaded nut like a collet holder.
The rotation, if in the right direction, can only cause it to tighten. :thumbup:
Edit, looks like what you have, so I'm lost now too :scratch: Maybe takes a small collet?
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What Stew has is a mini chuck, slidy bits wiv springs inside.
This is a pin chuck
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?sessionID=QOL&pf_id=33442&name=pin+chuck&user_search=1&sfile=1&jump=0
But unfortunately it doesn't go up to the size required, but they are very accurately made.
These are pin vices
http://www.axminster.co.uk/sessionID/QOL/product-Axminster-Pin-Vice-Set-33440.htm
Not as accurately made as a pin chuck, but do go up to the size required. With a little bit of work, they can be made accurate enough to do the job.
Before doing any of the below, you will have made one of your adapters to fit the grinder and drilled a nice concentric hole in the end, say 1/4".
Find the pin vice you want, say to fit a 1/8" mounted point.
Get rid of most of the handle and leave about 1/2" under the thread.
Mount a short length of 1/8" silver steel into your lathe mounted ER collet chuck.
Then grab the stub of SS sticking out of the chuck with what is left of the pin vice.
Using you newly made toolpost grinder, gently grind back the stubby area under the threads until it is nice and concentric and is a nice snug fit in the hole in the end of the adapter you have made.
Stick the two together with loctite.
That is basically how the one on my grinder is. :clap:
Bogs
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Ha Haaaa the penny has dropped :thumbup:
I can remember you showing me this but it was all too much for me to take in at the time.
Thats a real neat idea John, When I got the mini chuck it just didn't seem right, and when I fited it I knew it wasn't up to the job.
I place an order for some pin chucks.
Thanks John
Stew
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Excellent work Stew! Meanwhile I have a little way to go with mine.
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Thanks Chaps
I hope to make good use of it in future projects, they realy are a usfull bit of kit that helps you to take on jobs that you would have strugled with.
Cheers
Stew
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Wow what quick delivery
Ordered a set of pin chucks from Axminster yesterday lunch time, came in from the shop today to have some lunch and look what was on the door mat
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Modmodder/100_2669.jpg)
:D :D :D
Stew
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Ok after the desaster with the Dremel chuck, had a go making a grinding point chuck using a pin chuck as suggested by John.
Make another quil this time I drilled it out 9mm
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2604.jpg)
Then get rid of the parts of the pin chuck not wanted.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2671.jpg)
Then grip a bit of 1/8" silver steel good and tight with the pin chuck, then gripping the silver steel with an ER collet gently turn the end down to 9mm + 0.20mm, then gently flash down to size with the tool post grinder so that it fits nicly in the quill.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2672.jpg)
Then supper glue the pin holder in the quill and thats it job done, the points run dead true. :thumbup:
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2676.jpg)
Well pleased with the result 1000 times better than dremil chuck.
Cheers
Stew
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"Super glue", he says in a high pitched voice.
I told you to use hi strength loctite.
I told you it should work better than that grotty chuck.
BTW. This message is now being sent with my all singing, all dancing, new desktop computer.
From a bare bones box, to being on the net, 1.5 hours.
Bogs
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When I was gluing it I thought Supper glue or loctite one of them is brittle :scratch: which one did John say:- eene, meeni, mine, mo and I got the wrong one :doh:.
:lol: :lol:
Happy new computer John :thumbup:
Stew
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That's great Stew, you'll be able to do all sorts of stuff with that.
Nick
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BTW. This message is now being sent with my all singing, all dancing, new desktop computer.
From a bare bones box, to being on the net, 1.5 hours.
Bogs
:offtopic:
Nice to see that you have the new computer up and running. Just remember that now you it can make can make bigger screwups faster. :lol: :ddb: :lol:
Cheers :beer:
Don
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Stew,
If it falls apart, just reassemble it with some some good stuff.
Don,
I said onto the net, not finished.
I have another couple of days getting it how I like, then I am going to try the new windows 7.
It is supposed to install directly over XP 64.
John
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then I am going to try the new windows 7.
It is supposed to install directly over XP 64.
John
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Not laughed so much in years .... Thanks ...and good luck
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then I am going to try the new windows 7.
It is supposed to install directly over XP 64.
Since this is the last we'll hear from you for a (long) while, John, I just wanted to say how nice it's been knowing you. Best of luck in your new career as a Micro$oft beta tester.
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Could this off topic discussion please be continued here
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=2015.0
And let Stew get on with this most informative post.
Bogs
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Ok I'm going to get on my high horse:- (high horse smilley)
When at the midlands show the other week I was on the look out for a green cupped wheel, but I was a bit p****d off that none of the suppliers seemed to sell them with the paper discs, these disc are relay important for two reasons it should tell you the type of wheel grit size bond hardness etc and the maximum safe speed of the wheel, and its important for safety reasons and the security of the wheel that are between the wheel and the clamp washers.
Her's a pic of the green wheel I bought and the card washers I've made for it along side a UK manufactured white wheel correctly supplied with washer with all the correct info on.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2677.jpg)
So the massage is USE PAPER WASHERS TO MOUNT GRINDING WHEELS
I'm off my horse now
Some of the wheels I want to use have a bore larger than my spindle, so I made some bushes for them along with some clamp washers:- its good practice to use washers that are the same diameter so you get even clamping on the wheel
Her's a pic of all the kit to fix a wheel, Spindle I made an extension to the spindle with a male and female mouting so that mount a wheel further out) Washer, Paper washer, Wheel with bush, Paper washer, Washer, Nut.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2679.jpg)
And this is my collection of wheels and quills.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Tool%20Post%20Grinder/100_2683.jpg)
The small wheels were kindly donated by another madmodder.
Cheers
Stew
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Stew,
am getting quite jealous - even more so when we see some of the results of this. It's like you've got a whole new machine tool!
Nick
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Hi Nick
I'm hoping to be able to do quite a bit of interesting work with the grinder, but we will have to see how it goes.
Thanks for taking an interest and posting comments.
Cheers
:beer:
Stew
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Cant wait to see the nice shiny ground parts
Very nice Stew
Gerhard
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One thing a grinder really helps with is when you have that bit of material that you can never get a good finish on. It can turn a real crappy bit of turning into a work of art, and accurately dimensioned as well.
What people also don't realise, grinding can also be used on materials that you wouldn't be able to shape otherwise, rubber and glass to name a couple. One of the jobs I did entailed surface grinding a rubber block to an exact size and shape.
Bogs
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Stew,
was just thinking, is there any way you could mount the spindle on a verticle slide so you could grind small bits flat in the 4 jaw?
Nick
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Nick
Thats going to be the next project I'll be posting, I'm planning on using a vertical slide of a lathe for this :- Your starting to see the posibilities from this bit of kit, I'm not shure if it will work but it will be fun trying :D :D :D
Cheers
Stew
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It's brilliant Stew.
bit :offtopic: I am seriously thinking about trying to turn adapt my horizontal mill into a surface grinder to give it surface grinding capability. I think it was Darren that pointed out, it's already half way there. There is a pulley on the back of the existing spindle (not sure if that could be utilised directly though as the spindle is driven through the gear box which would only give maybe 1000rpm. There are dovetail slides on top of that so the grinding spindle could be mounted there. The table can be moved longitudinally by a lever ... will put that up in another post when I get round to it!
Nick
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Stew,
am getting quite jealous
Nick
Me too, :clap:
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I have a Boxford Little Giant tool post Grinder and I need to make a collet chuck attachment for it to grind the taper on my new ER32 collet chuck which is eccentric by .003"
The thread on the spindle is 1/4" 32 tpi. Can anyone tell me if the thread is 55 degrees or 60 degrees. For my collet chuck extension I intend to drill and ream 1/4" for the entry and tap the in board bit of the hole to match the thread; is this the way its done? If any one out there had a drawing or a sketch it would help me a lot or even better if any one had a spare little giant collet chuck that would be even better.
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I have the same toolpost grinder except I had to remotor mine as when the other went wrong, I was quoted over 150 squid for a rewind, and that was years ago.
ME threads are based on standard Whitworth, in fact some actually ARE Whitworth sizes, so the angle you require is 55 degrees.
Bogs
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Very nice design!