The Craftmans Shop > Model Engineering

Side Valve i.c. engine from Bar stock

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PekkaNF:

--- Quote from: Brian Rupnow on August 08, 2014, 12:25:19 PM ---Sent out a list of bearings and bushings for the new engine to my bearing supplier.--Wouldn't you know it----Their system is down!!---I may just go upstairs and drink wine for the rest of the day!!!

--- End quote ---

Bit like my day at the office. We need 6-7 systems to do the work. Each of them is can of worms, inherited, outsourced, offshored....uptime something like 90% - EACH. Meaning all is up and running about 50% of workday. MAX. Unless someone on HR ot IT has revoked all priviledges. And by 10:00 we had fire alarm and everyone had to leave the building. Half an hour later burnt light on the storage was found. Rest of the day went downhill....

Pekka

Brian Rupnow:
Damn!!!---And I mean that with all my heart!!! Three weeks ago I called Canadian Bearings and inquired about the sealed needle bearings, their sizes, and the fact that they could be sealed. Got the green light on everything, so went ahead and designed the engine based on that info. Today I sent out a request for quote for all bearings bushings, etcetera on the engine to Canadian Bearings. Just got an answer back----The 1/4" needle bearings I planned on using for the wrist pin  (gudgeon pin) are not available anywhere in North America. The 3/8" needle bearings for the big end are available, but they are no longer selling them as "sealed" bearings. This doesn't totally beat me, because I can still go to a 3/8" needle bearing at the wrist pin--(I do have sufficient room). The only pain in the arse is that now the rod bearings will have to be manually oiled. Oh well, none of this is a deal breaker, but it sure annoys me!!! (All the bearings and bushings including taxes came to about $40 Canadian, including taxes.)

Brian Rupnow:
So here we have a pair of gears being born!! I had a 7" length of 1144 stress proof steel x 1 3/8" diameter left over from making the crankshaft for the Jaguar/Canadian Cub, and the o.d. of the timing gears for my side valve engine is 1.33 major diameter. I cut the 7" length in half, turned the short end to 5/8" diameter, turned the o.d. to 1.33" diameter, and drilled and reamed the 3/8" bore 2" deep all in one set-up. I then reversed the part in the 3 jaw chuck and turned the other end to 5/8" diameter. Next step will be to set it up in the chuck on my rotary table and make one long gear, then saw it in half in the bandsaw and turn the face of each remaining gear half to the correct length, then cut off the long hub to leave a .343 long hub. Then I will add the set screw holes.

Brian Rupnow:
I got thinking about how I was going to loosen off the gears on the cam-shafts to adjust the cams, and realized that there would be no portion of the shaft (which has the cam fixed to the end of it) available to grab hold of and turn. So---I extended the shafts to extend through the backplate 3/8", and made up a couple of knurled caps to fit over the ends of the shaft and bolt on with a #8 shcs. This will act as a retainer washer to keep the shaft and cam from sliding out of the bushing, and will give me something I can grip to turn the cam and shaft manually when the set screws holding the gear are loosened off. There is no danger of getting my finger sucked down between the knurled rollers, because they both turn the same direction---they don't roll in towards each other.

Brian Rupnow:
Last night I lay in bed thinking about the crankcase for this engine. It looks kinda neat with that rectangular hole all the way through it.--But I am beginning to think that perhaps it doesn't need that big rectangular hole through it. That big rectangular hole, which would be a bit of a pig to machine, doesn't serve any real purpose that I can see. (except to give access for oiling the big end of the rod with a squirt can)The crankshaft is two piece, and can be inserted through the big round hole in the side for the bearing housing.(I designed the hole to be 0.030" greater in diameter than the largest diameter on the crankshaft.) So, for assembly, the driven side of the crankshaft that eventually has the cam gear mounted on it would be inserted first. Then the con-rod (with piston attached) would have the big end lowered down through the hole in the top of the crankcase, then the main (dark blue) section of crankshaft would be inserted,with the rod journal going through the rod big end bearing and passing on through the reamed hole in the web of the first piece of crankcase--(that hole is just a sliding fit, not an interference fit). Then the bearing housing and bearings would be slid on over the end of the dark blue crankshaft and bolted up to the side of the crankcase. Of course all of this depends on whether or not I can find a sealed needle bearing or not.

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