The Craftmans Shop > Model Engineering
Side Valve i.c. engine from Bar stock
Brian Rupnow:
For those of you who have been asking about how I will adjust the valve lash on this engine----This is it. The "tappets" will be of 3 piece construction, having an internally tapped bottom that will ride on the cam, an externally threaded top section which rides against the end of the valve, and a lock nut. The bottom section of the tappet is 5/16" diameter, and is hardened "01" steel. the top portion will also be hardened "01" steel. The internal thread is a #10-24. I left the cylinder head off in this model so you can see that I plan on using pressed in valve cages.----Brian
Brian Rupnow:
Well Sir!! I think that just about covers it!!! Oh, I've got to so something about a place for my started spud so I can use my variable speed drill as a starter, and probably add a few keyways and bolt holes, but I think the overall design is 99% done. everything on there I have built before on my previous 7 i.c. engines, except for perhaps the adjustable tappets----and that doesn't look like brain surgery. I think this will be a really neat project for a new engine this fall, and as usual I will be posting the engineering drawings fro anyone who wants to join in the fun. I guess my next step will be to make a list of all the bushings and bearings and go have a chat with my bearing supplier.---Brian
Brian Rupnow:
I am going to "borrow" the crankshaft design from Malcolm Stride's "Lynx" engine. The crankshaft will be made up from individual components which will be silver soldered together. However it will remain as two totally separate assemblies. The 1/2" shaft with keyway, the counterweight/web and the 1/2" diameter rod journal will be one assembly. The other end of the crankshaft will be 3/8" diameter and consist of only the shaft and the counterweight/web. This second counterweight/web will have a 1/2" hole reamed through it, which the rod journal will pass completely through, ending flush with the other side of the counterweight/web. The rod journal will be made from "01" water hardening steel, which will be quenched immediately after silver soldering to harden it. Both ends of the full crankshaft will be supported by two bearings, to prevent any potential misalignment. (The crankcase and outboard bearing support will be assembled, doweled, and all bored in one set-up.) This arrangement will allow me to use a sealed roller bearing on the big end of the con-rod. The width between the counterweight/webs when all is assembled is sufficient to allow a .015" thick spacer washer on each side of the con rod bearing.
Brian Rupnow:
This morning I got bored!! Daughter is getting married next week---whole week will be crazy. Customer is squealing like a pig wanting me to come over to his factory and do some design on a new machine, but I can't because I'm waiting for a courier to bring me a new Solidworks disc. A friend wants me to machine some mounts for his new fishing downrigger but I'n waiting on material.---And yesterday I just bought a second house!!!--However, being stuck between all things and unable to do any of them, I decided to machine something this morning.----So---I rooted around in my scrap bin and found a piece of aluminum big enough to make the spacer bar that fits between the backplate and the crankase on my fall project engine.
Brian Rupnow:
Sent out a list of bearings and bushings for the new engine to my bearing supplier.--Wouldn't you know it----Their system is down!!---I may just go upstairs and drink wine for the rest of the day!!!
REQUEST FOR PRICE AND DELIVERY
ONESEALED NEEDLE ROLLER BEARING .25 I.D. X 0.478 O.D. X 0.375 LONG #SCE46PP INA
ONE--- SEALED NEEDLE ROLLER BEARING .375 I.D. X 0.563 O.D. X 0.5 LONG #SCE68PP INA
TWO SEALED BALL BEARINGS ½ I.D. X 1.125 O.D. X 0.5 LONG #R1616-2RS RBI
ONE OILITE BRZ. BUSHING 3/8 I.D. X ½ O.D. X 1/2 LONG
ONE OILITE BRONZE BUSHING 3/8 I.D. X 5/8 O.D. X Ύ LONG
TWOOILITE BRONZE BUSHINGS 3/8 I.D. X ½ O.D. X 1 LONG
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