Gallery, Projects and General > Oooops!
This is getting infectious - stuck chuck
PekkaNF:
I thin I had one Jacobs taper chuck ever, it was holding pretty well.
I am pretty happy with Din tapers they seem to work. Before I just slammed them manually, but once it came free and after that I have been giving them a gentle tap.
Here is pictures of before and after
awemawson:
Glad that you got it off. I keep a set of wedges for each taper size in a linbin for emergancies
Steve, perhaps a smear of loctite next time you need to reseat your wayward taper?
PekkaNF:
To my knowledge reaming or grinding is only way to make inside tapers work. I had an HD and it had a taper on crankshaft, it had moved just a few decrees and I asked one racing mechanic. He told that no glue will hold it. clearance is too small and shock loads are too big.
I don't know the newest glues, but I'm sceptical.
Once I did the unthinkable and used very little of valve grinding paste to matte the drill chuck taper (I have no reamer). I was pretty sure I'll ruin it, but it did work. Generally you don't want lap using the actual parts, because grit will embed in some decree, well this is not a sliding fit. Also tapers will generally bellmouth if you try this. And generally tapers will get worse if you lap them, lapping seems to work best on cylindrical and flat, not easily other forms.
Trying to read, experiment and lear about tapers a little. Planning to make a little spindle.
Pekka
vtsteam:
Well Andrew and Pekka, you guys have me thinking about improving it instead of just living with it.
Maybe I'll just wipe some blue on and see what's happening. If the fit looks good, it's a basic design problem and about the only thing that will help would be Loctite.
If the fit isn't good it's a manufacturing defect, and then material ought to come off.
But at least I'll find out which it is.
(I do notice that electric hand drills with Jacobs chucks sold here have retaining screws. Why a drill press with a vertical shaft wouldn't need that is a mystery! The weight of the chuck is always applying loosening pressure, the chuck is heavier, and the power is much greater.)
Dollars to donuts, I won't be able to get it off to blue it! :lol:
PekkaNF:
--- Quote from: vtsteam link=topic=9861.msg110321#msg110321 dateD=1404045703 ---Well Andrew and Pekka, you guys have me thinking about improving it instead of just living with it.
Maybe I'll just wipe some blue on and see what's happening. If the fit looks good, it's a basic design problem and about the only thing that will help would be Loctite.
If the fit isn't good it's a manufacturing defect, and then material ought to come off.
But at least I'll find out which it is.
--- End quote ---
I'm really pleased if my ramblings are of any use. Once I had a dent on one MT3 taper drill and it would not hold, one quick swipe with a file took the bulge away and I still has drill in use.
--- Quote from: vtsteam on June 29, 2014, 08:41:43 AM ---(I do notice that electric hand drills with Jacobs chucks sold here have retaining screws. Why a drill press with a vertical shaft wouldn't need that is a mystery! The weight of the chuck is always applying loosening pressure, the chuck is heavier, and the power is much greater.)
--- End quote ---
Hand drills have often that screw there, because people do goofy things with the drill - like use hammer-drill or apply side load - often simultaneously and while sinning latest tunes, tap-dancing and moving drill energetic manner. Normally you don't do that with a pilar drill.
--- Quote from: vtsteam on June 29, 2014, 08:41:43 AM ---Dollars to donuts, I won't be able to get it off to blue it! :lol:
--- End quote ---
Drill chuck tapers are designed to make very firm contact and they will hold when they are clean. They are not "transitional tapers".
Pekka
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