Oh bum

[Bigbadbugga]

 

Ordered sone ER25 collets and a MT2 collet chuck off eBay. It all came today, fairly nice quality for the cheap price but the chuck came tapped for a 3/8 drawbar not an M10.

My fault really as I assumed it would be metric as all the sizes were listed as metric, it didn't state the drawbar size though.

I messaged the seller suggesting they might put the info in the description, and asking if they have a metric one to swap. Just wait and see what they say. If they can't I'll just keep this one for the boxford lathe and make a bar for it, then order the correct one for the mill.

[Arbalist]

If it's soft enough you could drill and tap M12 if it's any help. All my collets etc are threaded M12.

[chipenter]

10mm X1.5 is very close to 3/8 Whit , tapping drill for 10 mm is .3mm bigger .

[philf]

10mm X1.5 is very close to 3/8 Whit , tapping drill for 10 mm is .3mm bigger .

That's exactly what I did with my 2MT collet chuck. Run an 8.5mm drill down first (or slightly bigger if the shank is very tough)  then an M10 tap. The M10 is approx 16.93 tpi compared with 16 tpi for the 3/8 BSW but, as the M10 is nearly 0.5mm bigger in diameter you get several (and enough) perfect threads before the mismatch starts to show.

Phil.

[platypus20]

How long of a draw bar do you need??

I could send you a section of 3/8" hardened all-thread (same as grade 8 in USA or 12.9 in metric) and a few nuts. All I need to know is a length, and if its 3/8"-16 or 3/8"-24 thread


jack

[tomrux]

why not a couple of different draw bars.
I have M8 M10 M12 3/8 and 1/2 For my sx3
In the home shop I have even found normal threaded rod to suffice. No swinging on spanners, they appear to last quite well and at the price of a metre of rod from the local hardware easily replaced.

Tom R

[Arbalist]

Why not a couple of different draw bars.

Tom R

You could indeed but I plan to make a self extracting draw bar so will be sticking with M12 for my VMC as it will be less work!

Details of the process at the bottom of this page:

http://modeleng.proboards.com/thread/5804/mill

[Bigbadbugga]

10mm X1.5 is very close to 3/8 Whit , tapping drill for 10 mm is .3mm bigger .

That's exactly what I did with my 2MT collet chuck. Run an 8.5mm drill down first (or slightly bigger if the shank is very tough)  then an M10 tap. The M10 is approx 16.93 tpi compared with 16 tpi for the 3/8 BSW but, as the M10 is nearly 0.5mm bigger in diameter you get several (and enough) perfect threads before the mismatch starts to show.

Phil.

Thanks guys, I'll certainly think about doing this. I was wondering how close the threads would be.

[Bigbadbugga]

Why not a couple of different draw bars.

Tom R

You could indeed but I plan to make a self extracting draw bar so will be sticking with M12 for my VMC as it will be less work!

Details of the process at the bottom of this page:

http://modeleng.proboards.com/thread/5804/mill

My Chester mill has a self extracting drawbar, replacements may be a project for the future but as a complete noob I fear this option may be a little beyond me at the minute.

[Arbalist]

My Chester mill has a self extracting drawbar.

Nice, wish the Chinese would fit them on all their mills!