Gallery, Projects and General > How do I??
Remove Seized on chuck ??
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awemawson:

--- Quote from: Fergus OMore on June 07, 2014, 02:36:16 AM ---
Sorry folks, but I did all this malarkey many years ago on an old ex-wartime Pools Major which probably none have heard about.

Regards

Norman

--- End quote ---

Sadly I have  :scratch:
vtsteam:
Can I retract my earlier opinion?  :lol:

I thought about restoring the thread after the epoxy fill and decided that picking up the thread and re-cutting, or making a tap to suit, etc. would be as much work as cutting a new thread, and I know in that case I'd just be visiting Lester at the Old Tyme machine shop and buying a lump of steel for maybe $20 or $10 depending on the stories swapped, to make a new plate by preference. Because that would be fun for me!

But I wouldn't bin the old one. Cast iron is a valued scrap material for building something else, or re-melting and pouring it.


ps. next time I'm at Lester's I'm going to have to remember to bring a camera and post some pictures here. They will sort of look like Jackson Pollock paintings in various shades of black, in which you can just make out the shapes of ancient machinery and tooling and materials. As if arranged by a tornado.
Manxmodder:

--- Quote from: Fergus OMore on June 07, 2014, 02:36:16 AM ---In my earlier 'Number4' in this saga, I referred to two different threads on my Myford bit. I think that it was a Dividing head spindle- but no matter. Two issues arise- not one.

There is the question of the register which has not been addressed.  The threads on the chuck are academic and secondary . All that the threads do is hold the chuck onto the spindle. For what it is worth, you could file off the tops of the crests- so long as the chuck holds its register- and doesn't rotate off.
 
Sorry folks, but I did all this malarkey many years ago on an old ex-wartime Pools Major which probably none have heard about.

Regards

Norman

--- End quote ---


I agree with Fergus here. There are 2 separate potential problems that caused the backplate to jam.

If the thread was the cause then galling or tearing of the thread would be evident. If the thread had galled then relieving the axial force as Mick has done with the parting tool would not have enabled him to undo it so easily as he did.

Looking at this now,I think the locking on problem has been in the area where the register face meets the spindle shoulder .  The use of JB weld or metal repair putty is a very acceptable and well documented method of repairing voids or blow holes in castings and threads.....OZ
Fergus OMore:
Thanks Oz for supporting my views. There seems to be  a need to check exactly how round and how parallel the register on the spindle is. Again, there seems to be a need for the mating surfaces on the chuck body part of the register. It suggests making a go and no go gauge. If it jams somewhere, it can be belted out. Obviously I am not 'au fait' with Mick's lathe but making up such elementary test gear goes a long way to avoiding the same old problems arising- again and again.

Clearly it is not in the book for run of the mill model making but my suggestions are commonplace in an inspection department.

Me, I'd like to know if my memory is still in one piece. It's a Looooong time since I played with a guessing stick- sorry , slide rule.

Meantime, cheers.

Norman
vtsteam:
But the register wouldn't have changed suddenly -- this chuck had been put on many times before with no problems, and this time was put on lightly, cleaned, oiled and not run against anything. A register problem would have acted differently, I think. Maybe it was a combination of things.
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