Remove Seized on chuck ??

Gallery, Projects and General > How do I??

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Manxmodder:
Mick,while we're on the subject of Harrison spindles can I ask how did you determine how much to tighten the adjustment nut behind the timken head bearings. I've had to strip the L6 headstock down to remedy a couple of issues and just wondered how much you tightened your adjusting nut before tightening the second lock nut.

I do have the 2 proper Harrison peg spanners for the job,unlike the butcher who was in there before me with a hammer and punch.......OZ

vtsteam:
Phew! :clap:

BillTodd:
Great :) no damage done or blood spilled :clap:

BaronJ:
Glad you got it off without too many problems. I too would be interested in seeing any photographs.
A blow hole in the casting particularly if there is any loose debris in there would act like a wedge. Not something that would be very obvious.

Pete W.:

--- Quote from: micktoon on June 05, 2014, 11:32:34 AM ---SNIP
The Ba##### is off
SNIP

For anyone else with the same problem as I think it was Pete W said with the rifle barrels this method does work so well worth noting .

Cheers Mick

--- End quote ---

Hi there, Mick,

I'm pleased you've resolved the problem. :D :thumbup: :D :thumbup: :D :thumbup:

Regarding the above quote: not me Guv, I don't do guns!!

I understand what you wrote about having to make more things to do jobs. Still, I think making up a mandrel-gripper gizmo would be time well-spent.

eBay abounds with lathes with gears with missing teeth, usually due to using the back-gear to lock the mandrel. Geared-head lathes aren't immune to such damage, either, leastways if their gears are made of cast iron!

I'd start with a suitable length of large mild steel hexi bar and turn all but about two inches of it down to a snug fit in the rear end of the lathe mandrel. Drill through for a draw-bar and open out the end to form a slow female taper nearly the full diameter of the bar at its open end, then machine two or three longitudinal slits. Make a plug with a threaded axial hole to suit the draw-bar and a male taper to suit the bore of the gizmo's main part. Devise a suitable pin-in-slot to stop the plug rotating in the bore.

It's really a sort of inside-out collet. When it's locked into the rear end of the mandrel bore, the two inches of remaining hex enable gripping with a large spanner to prevent the mandrel from turning. There - it sounds such a good idea, I might even make one myself!

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