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| Chuck in E. TN:
[font=]I am making a custom 1/4" x 40tpi tap for a friend. He had the change gears for his lathe disappear during a move. I have the threads cut, and a 5 deg taper on the end. I'm getting ready to mill flutes and the square end for the tap wrench. Can I cut the flutes with a regular 1/8 end mill? I don't have a ball end that small. How deep should they be? He'll be cutting threads in cast iron. I have to also make a matching screw, so I will be taping a piece of hex steel stock for a test nut. I have printed out an article on making custom taps with just a filed obelisk (think Washington Monument) shape for the tapered start and no flutes, but I think flutes would be better. Chuck[/font] |
| tom osselton:
So why a 1/4 x40? |
| Chuck in E. TN:
It's what the plans call for. The plans are for a model airplane engine, running diesel. The plans are from a guy in PA. MLV something. Can't remember his name. Anyway, got the tap made and heat treated, a nut made with the tap, and am now working on the screw to match the nut. I think it's for metering fuel. Chuck |
| mklotz:
For $15.60, I'd just buy it... http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=891-4928&PMPXNO=3904763&PARTPG=INLMK32 |
| Chuck in E. TN:
Where's the fun in that, Marv? I went ahead and made the tap, cutting the flutes with a 1/8" end mill. I hardened it, but did not temper it. I made a nut from some 1/2" steel hex I had in the junque box and cut it's thread with the just made tap. I had to go slow with lots of cutting fluid, but it worked! Chuck |
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