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| An Electric Bicycle |
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| S. Heslop:
Been busy the last few days but got a bit done. I'm real glad I bought those burrs at the car boot sale, just used one as a sort of 10mm reamer to get the holes in those aluminium lumps to a sliding fit. Aluminium on steel probably isn't a great bearing surface, or great in general, but i'll see how it goes. Also note that I mucked up with the angle iron and they're not mirror images of each other. All i've got left on the mechanical side is keywaying the larger gear's shaft, making some bars to connect that forward hole on the box section to the frame (it should be strong enough without a second set of angle iron struts like planned), and making the contact rollers. I'm short on space near the tyre though so i'll have to make them a bit different than planned. I'll probably also want to fully enclose the gearbox at some point to keep doit out. Also in other news I hit my left ring finger with a hammer about 5 or 6 days ago, and it's not gotten any less sore. I'm starting to wonder if I've broken it but i'll give it a bit longer. I've been thinking about banjos alot lately but it's killing me that I can't actually play one without it hurting! |
| vtsteam:
Simon, you gotta take it easy on yerself. You're supposed to last a lifetime! Cuts, burns, and hammer blows are no good, man! :poke: Bike looks great. I don't think those particular alumin(i)um bearing block will produce much friction for the requirement Seems fine to me. |
| S. Heslop:
Got the gearboxes totally complete now with keyways and circlips. Might buy some loctite to stick the bearings in place though. I'm playing with the electronic side now. Ordered some 60 amp fuses and a fuse holder. I've had a problem with the ammeter not working (the needle just sort of twitching at the bottom of the scale), but by chance I had a 'spark' occur through what I think was the shunt contacting the wires I had leading from the shunt to the ammeter, although i'm still not sure why i'd get such a big spark (it blew the chrome off the side of the shunt and scorched the desk) from just that, but that's all that could've been touching. So I suppose the insulation on those wires isn't enough, and were shorting out before the current could reach the ammeter. The continuity itself tests fine. I'm gonna leave testing it any more until the fuses arrive. That spark gave me a fright. But at least the motor and controller seem to be working! |
| vtsteam:
Simon you've got the equivalent voltage and current capacity of a DC welder. So yes it could produce a healthy spark if you short something! In fact it's quite possible to make a DC welder from a couple of car batteries hooked in series, a stick holder and a clamp. A shunt is connected across (parallel to) an ammeter. A shunt and ammeter must always be used with a load that drops the current to the range they are rated for. Don't ever connect them directly to a battery with no load, since the battery can output hundreds of amps, and the shunt and ammeter are pretty much a dead short. |
| kayzed1:
Bit late but look what i found.. http://www.petrolscooter.co.uk/spare-parts/electric-scooter-hobby-parts.html Lyn. |
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