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| vtsteam:
Steve a cross pin is far more likely to shear than a round key -- think of the cross sections! |
| S. Heslop:
--- Quote from: vtsteam on June 25, 2014, 06:54:16 PM ---Steve a cross pin is far more likely to shear than a round key -- think of the cross sections! --- End quote --- Would there be a risk of a round keyway 'jacking' out and putting radial pressure on the gear? The keyway in the smaller gear is cut relatively close to the edge and id be worried about it cracking. The bigger complication though is that there's quite a bit of shaft beyond where i'd want the keyway to be, since a bearing supports the shaft on the end opposite to the motor, which would make it hard to drill a hole parallel to the keyway. I still think compared to a set screw a pin would be adequate though. --- Quote from: RussellT on June 25, 2014, 06:48:13 PM ---You could make a tool to cut a slot using a bit of silver steel - or even a broken drill bit resharpened to give a flat end. Russell --- End quote --- I've only got 8mm silver steel on hand unfortunately, too small to make an effective cutter. I'm thinking now that it'd be worth giving the shaper idea a go, drilling a blind hole in the shaft to give a place to start the cut. |
| S. Heslop:
t=4m20s Heres a video demonstrating the keyway thing. Shouldn't be too hard to grind a cutter to do this. I could just use a parting tool i've already got ground too and make multiple cuts. Hopefully the 4 way toolpost on my lathe will give me enough room. |
| vtsteam:
Steve, I didn't realize the gear already had a square key slot. Seems best to mill the shaft to match then. |
| vtsteam:
Steve, you don't have to use the scraper method on the shaft, if you have a boring bar (as in the video). You can mount the boring bar in the chuck as a fly cutter, and the shaft to be milled in the tool holder, and mill it. The boring bar is just a one tooth woodruff cutter. Lathe in reverse so you aren't climb milling. Very light cuts and slow feed. Try on a practice piece first. |
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