An Electric Bicycle

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An Electric Bicycle

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vtsteam:
Simon, the way it is usually handled is on a transmitter, the throttle stick is moved in a specified sequence to program in usually six to 12 variables. You listen for tones that the ESC emits in sequence, and then move the throttle stick to select your options. To do this you need to know what that code is. It usually is in the instructions that came with the ESC. Sometimes you have to do a little internet research if the instructions don't include this.

What is the brand of ESC that you bought, and where did you buy it from?

It's fairly likely that your ESC already is set up with usable default values, and you might not have to change anything. But you should have that documentation.

Your potentiometer will act as the throttle stick pot.

Incidentally, don't be surprised if on first trying your motor out for a bench test if the motor doesn't seem to respond. There is a lock-out feature that prevents energizing the motor if the throttle stick (or your pot) isn't set to zero throttle when you connect the ESC to power. You need to move the pot to zero to arm the ESC.

This fact is actually used to do the programming, too. Generally you put the ESC into programming mode by setting the stick to some specified positive position before connecting the ESC to power. The ESC responds by altering its initial musical sequence to let you know it is in programming mode.

S. Heslop:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261313678316
This is the model that I bought. It was cheap enough that I was willing to take the risk.

http://iforce.co.nz/i/pm4llk0z.r00.jpg
This is a scan of all that came with it, in glorious Engrish.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__7341__Hobbyking_SS_Series_90_100A_ESC.html
A post on a German forum says 'it looks similar to this' which it does. But that's all I could find from googling around.

vtsteam:
Working on it. It will take some sleuthing for this particular ESC.

First hit:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/brushed-brushless-motors-speed-controls-gear-drives-123/9046787-rc-smart-80-amp-opto-esc-programming.html

S. Heslop:
That's great, thanks!

One thing I was wondering about was how i'd deal with not running the batteries flat since I think that can ruin lipos, but it looks like you can program the esc to automatically cut off before that happens.

Also when I first heard about esc programming I was a little worried i'd have to buy some sort of accessory, but it looks like i'll be able to just do it with the regular servo tester/ throttle.

vtsteam:
Simon, yes all ESCs cut out when the battery nears the allowable limit. They often even have two styles of cut-out -- hard and soft. Soft means the engine slows down (to let the pilot know before cutoff that the motor will be cut. The hard cutoff just shuts the motor down.

When you set the programming for the number of lipos you are also setting the cutoff voltage.

Yes you can program an ESC with just tones and the throttle. It can get confusing at first, but once you "get it" it's do-able. I've never bought a programming card, and do all ESC programming "on the beep".

One more reference that might be helpful for programming this ESC, and seems to confirm is the link you gave me to Hobbyking for the "similar" esc.

If you go to that page, toward the bottom you'll see a set of tabs. Click on the FILES tab and you'll see support files for that ESC. The top two files (numbered) are in English and are instructions for programming that ESC. Download those and compare to the link I gave earlier.

Now as for actual settings -- Suggestions:

Set the number of cells in series you will have. Set lipo. Set no brake. You want probably soft start (usually used on helicopters -- a gradual ramp up n speed). Try auto timing. If that doesn't work (loud squeal when you crank the throttle) try soft or lower timing.

But please figure out why you had that short, if you haven't already. Was it really moving a bare lead or pin to contact something accidentally, or was it wiring hookup error. If the former, then things should be better now that wiring is soldered and insulated, etc. But if wiring was wrong, it will happen again (unless it was changed).

It looks pretty definite that your ESC has no on-board BEC. It therefore does not need the center (red) lead going to the servo tester, and absolutely requires a separate battery to drive the servo tester (assuming it still works).

It would be a good idea to test that servo tester somehow separately before trying to drive the ESC and motor from it. Or buy a new servo tester to be sure. They are the least expensive component.

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