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Brake caliper piston

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PekkaNF:

--- Quote from: Sid_Vicious on May 27, 2014, 08:27:43 PM ---VT Steam...The antitheft system is very often a sensor near the ignition that reckognise the code in the key and send a signal to a box on the carb or fuelrail opening for the fuel to flow. If you smashes that box and take away everything there you will end up with one wire you shall connect with positive. It's just an elektromagnetic shutoffvalve. There are some Youtube videos about it. Then you can use aftermarked keys and locks.

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My wife had a cheapest Nissan ever and it's antiteft system was spawned by beleseebub himself. Ignition switch communicated to key and send the code to ignition module that did (or did not) accept it....and ofter that gave (or did not) signal out that enabled crankking and such. Once I had some slight trouble with in in -27C temperature and it was not much joy of trobleshooting it


--- Quote from: vtsteam on May 27, 2014, 09:16:52 AM ---I had a coil go out on my pickup truck a couple months ago. Started having misfires when it rained. Replaced plugs and wires first, but it got worse, finally I had to face the fact it was of course the most expensive part -- ignition electronics were potted into it.
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I had some intermitent problems too, I had replaced plugs three months ago and the trouble disapeared until two weeks ago. Then I replaced HT wires (two had break on low voltage) and the coil, this is the system that has two coils pottet together and fires two cylinders simultaneously. Helpped a little while, but I found the original fault: there are some press-on steel plugs at the same plane than plugs, they seeped a little coolant, not much but eneough to keep the whole lot moist and because the whole lot (plugs/caps) is under seals it stays wet. When accelerated hard sparky finds alternative routes.

I had my share of brake problems, I'll try to replace parts, whenever thay are reasonable price, here they rust and if you'll touch anything you won't get it back. On one ford the pistons were pretty much rusted outside perimeter and did not go back when I were chancing the pads, I don't remember did I try to remove the rust or did I get the repair kit. I rmemebert that the pistons were surpricingly thin and had very weak top.  I have a look on brakes twice the year (when I change summer/winter tires).

Pekka

vtsteam:

--- Quote from: PekkaNF on May 28, 2014, 01:29:00 AM ---...On one ford the pistons were pretty much rusted outside perimeter and did not go back when I were chancing the pads, I don't remember did I try to remove the rust or did I get the repair kit. I rmemebert that the pistons were surpricingly thin and had very weak top.

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Well that would argue against turning the piston in the lathe, to answer Eric's original question. I guess you'd have to look at it and judge for yourself, depending on the vehicle. But it seems like new pistons should go in there after any temporary repair to keep the truck briefly on the road.

Brass_Machine:

--- Quote from: vtsteam on May 28, 2014, 10:47:16 AM ---Well that would argue against turning the piston in the lathe, to answer Eric's original question. I guess you'd have to look at it and judge for yourself, depending on the vehicle. But it seems like new pistons should go in there after any temporary repair to keep the truck briefly on the road.

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yeah, I wouldn't be turning it. Just facing it. Thankfully being a truck, it is a big thick piston. I am going to rebuild the caliper tonight (or tomorrow) and had planned on doing a thread on it...

Steve... Don't worry about hijacking the thread!

vtsteam:
Well Eric, you'll know better when you look at it and decide. It's always second guessing out here on the internet compared to what a person has in front of them on the workbench.

I once owned a 1941 Plymouth pickup truck that I bought at a junkyard and gradually restored. The brakes were shot (rear slave cylinders a mess) and I couldn't find a source for replacements, so I went down to the local parts place (this was about 1971 when they were still old fashioned, non-franchise, around here) and together we searched through boxes of slave cylinder to come up with a close match from something more "modern".

It had the same diameter and throw and fit on the plate with the same bolt locations, but the pushrods were obviously a little different than the stock Plymouth truck ones. So I just made up new pushrods to fit. Back then I didn't have a lathe (or know anything about them) and I just used a hacksaw and files on a piece of round bar. The brakes worked fine. A couple years later I came across a classified ad in Hemmings Motor News for proper replacement cylinders, sent for those, and replaced the converted ones. But they probably would have worked fine for a lifetime if I hadn't.

Brass_Machine:
I have been finding the franchised parts stores around here very unhelpful. Fortunately I found one a few towns over, while still franchised, has the old school feel to it. They even have stools in front of the counters and the parts guys know what they are talking about.

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