The Craftmans Shop > PowerSports
Brake caliper piston
Brass_Machine:
So my truck has had some disastrous events happen to it lately. The front brakes on the passenger side started grinding, so I went out and bought a set of pads (cheap) to get me through tip I had the cash to swap the rotors as well (they were kind of ground up). Only did the one side because the drives side "seemed" ok.
Took the truck to my in-laws house and it the drivers side started grinding when I got there. No tools. The other pads were back in the garage at home. Figured since it just start grinding, I would be OK getting it home.
Well... I was wrong. Between the pads being nothing more than the backing plates and the carrier guide pins sticking, the inner pad (what was left of it) basically fell out. When I went to stop, the piston ground against the rotor. Had to get towed home. So I ended temporarily tossing the new pads on (again until I got the cash for the rotors) and drove it back and forth to the train station so I could get to work.
Ordered all the parts I needed to do an entire front end rebuild. Been working on it for the past week. Parts for my truck are like trying to find hens teeth, so I had to go to ebay to get a few things. One of them being a replacement piston for the one that had contact with the rotor.
So being the knuckle head that I am, I ordered the wrong piston. I got the one for the rear brake caliper (at least the rebuild kit was correct). I don't have the time to send it back and get the right one. So my question is this: The damage to the piston is very light. I am thinking of just cleaning it up and squaring it in the lathe. We are talking minimal material to be removed (maybe .0625"). Am I crazy to do this? I need to get this POS back o the road ASAP.
Eric
vtsteam:
Sorry that happened to you Eric!
Well, if you do face the piston down, seems like it ought to look to the cylinder like you have ,0625 wear on the pad, and ought to self adjust for that. But I would be sure to order the correct piston and replace it asap. Because it may get too far out of the cylinder when you get real wear on the pads, since you ahem, drive 'til they grind! :poke:
Did you hear squeaking of the wear indicators before the actual backing plate grinding started?
Brass_Machine:
--- Quote from: vtsteam on May 26, 2014, 09:57:14 PM ---Sorry that happened to you Eric!
Well, if you do face the piston down, seems like it ought to look to the cylinder like you have ,0625 wear on the pad, and ought to self adjust for that. But I would be sure to order the correct piston and replace it asap. Because it may get too far out of the cylinder when you get real wear on the pads, since you ahem, drive 'til they grind! :poke:
Did you hear squeaking of the wear indicators before the actual backing plate grinding started?
--- End quote ---
Nope. No squeaking. Whoever did the job before me cut them off! :doh:
vtsteam:
Oh, that's nasty!
Well, hope things get better for you -- I know the feeling when your wheels start making demands rather than suggestions!
I had a coil go out on my pickup truck a couple months ago. Started having misfires when it rained. Replaced plugs and wires first, but it got worse, finally I had to face the fact it was of course the most expensive part -- ignition electronics were potted into it. Well, anyway, got new wires and plugs in, too, so no worries re. ignition from now on.
My wife's Honda Fit has been giving us fits. The key will hardly turn in the ignition any more, The dealership wants $400 to replace the ignition lock AND she will then need two keys, since it will be different than the door locks. If she wants them re-keyed, it's $1000. But not only that, the hatchback door lock is now also non functional. Honda builds respected engines, but hasn't yet conquered door latch and lock design. This is a 2008 vehicle which is nearly inoperable by now.
Non-dealer and non OEM ignition lock replacement won't work because Honda won't release the digital codes for the anti theft programming. It's "proprietary".
Anti-theft means that street thieves have simply been replaced by the dealership. We will soon need another thousand bucks just to get into or drive our car.
Brass_Machine:
Hey Steve...
Dunno if this will help, but I fixed a sticking ignition key on a Porsche lubricating it with graphite powder. I was able to buy a small tube of it and was able to squirt it in. A few turns with the key helped with dispersing it through the tumbler and was soon working better than new.
Eric
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