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| billmac:
TIR stands for Total Indicator Reading. If you set up an indicator so that it bears on a shaft, then rotate the shaft, the TIR is the difference between the lowest and highest readings on the dial. Or you can find the minimum, set the dial to zero, then the TIR will be the maximum reading that you get on the dial. |
| John Stevenson:
Just my take on it when making flywheels with tapered crank pins is to make one side and finish both bores and skim the outside to be true. Leave the other side oversize but machined up all round. Then mark out and bore the other tapered hole for the pin, machine the mainshaft hole to about 3/4 finished size Make a dummy crank pin with just two tapers on it and virtually no parallel part, you need to be between centres to do this accurately. The idea is to get both halves to clamp together tight but with no gap. Then holding the whole assembly on the good mainshaft and clock the good flywheel side you can then bore the other mainshaft hole to finished size. That should get everything running true. |
| billmac:
John - Took me a few minutes to understand what you are saying, but I really like that method. Will file that away for later. |
| AussieJimG:
Following this one with interest Jim |
| OKTomT:
Thanks guys I had thought of boring the crank pin holes straight through with the fly wheels welded together and drill a hole in the ends of the crank pin for a tapered pipe plug to expand the pin for a tight fit. but I chose to go with proven method thinking that the plugs would not hold the pin tight. Press in plugs sound like a good idea but may be hard to remove. John your way sounds good but making a pin with two tapers that seat In there tapered holes and the face of the flywheels meet up at the same time in beyond my skills. but what I could do is leave one of the rod pin ends a press fit that way I could just press them together after I tighten up the taper end. I am going to do some checking and see where I am off then make a plan to repair. Tom |
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