Author Topic: 626 Mill Riser Block (Read 24200 times)

Arbalist · « **on:** May 20, 2014, 05:29:29 AM »

626 Riser Block.

I'm not in a position to make one of these at the moment but I like to plan ahead!

I've seen a few other folks have made risers for their mills but I still have some questions and would appreciate your comments and suggestions guys!

First off I guess is which material to use. I've seen these made in both Steel and Aluminium Alloy. AA would be easier for me to machine as I only have a small Lathe but is it suitable and what's the difference in cost - cheaper is better in this instance!

I only have an 8 X 14 Lathe, is this big enough to do the job? I think I've seen one being made on an even smaller ML7.

Is six inch diameter (152.4mm) stock big enough, quoted dimensions for some folks risers is 155mm diameter?

I know folks have gone up to a six inch riser for their mills but I've done a fair bit of work on my machine and only plan to make a 3-4 inch version. It will be big enough for my needs and I'll still be able to reach the pulleys and belts for speed changes!

I think there must be some variation in these machines so I won't be blindly following anyone else's dimensions without carefully measuring my Warco VMC first.

Have I missed anything?

Thanks in advance.

John Stevenson · « **Reply #1 on:** May 20, 2014, 05:48:15 AM »

I'm part way thru doing two for two different people, both in steel as I have it and both nominally 4"

There is an article in the current issues of MEW on doing one but he's done his out of three parts all bolted together so he can use the original short holding bolts.
Seems far to much work to me so I'm doing a one piece with a set of new long bolts.

Unfortunately paid work keeps getting in the way so these are still a while off and will be for some time as June I'm away for most of the month.

What I have found out so far is every one that has been measured is different and I don't mean a few thou. The two I'm doing, same machine but from different stables differ by 12mm !!

Arbalist · « **Reply #2 on:** May 20, 2014, 06:28:31 AM »

I'm not surprised by the difference in measurements John, hence my earlier comment!

Can you remember how much the steel is for something like this?

Do you know the issue number for the MEW article?

I'm worried my Lathe is a bit too small for this project to be honest ...

Thanks for the reply and sorry for so many questions!

Update: found the issues, MEW 215 & 216.

John Stevenson · « **Reply #3 on:** May 20, 2014, 08:11:36 AM »

Don't know the price of the steel as I had an eight foot long left over of 6" from a few years ago when steel as a damn sight cheaper that it is now.

Bit heavy thought

Don't think your lathe will be big enough, Mine is 14 x 40 and it's not gripping on much with the jaws right out.

Arbalist · « **Reply #4 on:** May 20, 2014, 10:38:50 AM »

Sure I've seen a picture of someone turning one on a Myford ML 7 somewhere, I wonder how they were holding it?

Jonny · « **Reply #5 on:** May 20, 2014, 03:08:47 PM »

Probably cut it off to length and used tube held with conventional external jaws expanded up on the tube bore.
Been 15 years since scrapped my highly modded ML7 1hp, fairly sure 6" wont clear cross slide for o/d turning or have the power, just facing off and must have took an eternity.
Standard motor you would have to push start 2ft x 91mm o/d tube. Theres ways to face off longer than crs.

Arbalist · « **Reply #6 on:** May 20, 2014, 04:12:24 PM »

I wonder if anyone has tried making a tubular version like this?

http://bedair.org/Mill/6760mill1.html

I found the picture of the Myford turning a riser. It was bolted to a face plate and appeared on the Yahoo 626 group.

John Stevenson · « **Reply #7 on:** May 20, 2014, 05:33:14 PM »

Quote from: Arbalist on May 20, 2014, 04:12:24 PM

I found the picture of the Myford turning a riser. It was bolted to a face plate and appeared on the Yahoo 626 group.

Why didn't I think of that ?

If it's bolted it can't fly off.

Just put a spacer block on the Bligeport [ Taiwanese clone ] It's the same as a Bridgy one, in fact it came off my old Bridgy and before that it was resting in Mr Mawson's emporium of slightly soiled goods. I did have to have the register skimmed by about a mill as it wouldn't quite fit.

Only problem now is I used to have a small pallet to stand on to swap tools, now It need two.

Pre the riser block.

Post riser block. Incidentally if you wind the ram forward as far as it will go and bolt a hollow box table to the mill table and then to the ram, once the 4 bolts are removed the kneee is more than capable of lifting the head and ram so you can slide the spacer in.

Bit this on the old bridgy and also did it on this one which is actually bigger than a bridgy in size and weight and this also has a slotting head on the back end.

Thanks again for the faceplate trick, that will speed things up no end but safely.

awemawson · « **Reply #8 on:** May 20, 2014, 05:42:48 PM »

Glad to hear you kept that riser John

I've yet to fit the one I kept back - how many years ago was it ?

Being a short arse you'll need to wear your high heels to change tools

John Stevenson · « **Reply #9 on:** May 20, 2014, 06:23:33 PM »

Bastard..............

Arbalist · « **Reply #10 on:** May 21, 2014, 03:44:50 AM »

Good idea on using the knee to lift the head John, thanks for that.
Found some alloy bar big enough at £38 so not so bad. Much prefer the idea of using some thick wall steel tube if I can get some though.

Meldonmech · « **Reply #11 on:** May 21, 2014, 05:40:07 AM »

Hi
You can bore the block under size, for an inch or so using your mill, then hold it in the lathe chuck using internal jaws on the Myford. The o/dia of the block was approx 6inches on my Chester 625, clears the bed by half an inch. When first mounted in the chuck, you realize what a big lump you have revolving in front of you. I wasn't happy so made a wooden vee block with a tenon to fit between the bed shears, to give the job some support. It worked quite well. I agree that a steel or iron block would be a much better choice, even if it does cost a bit more.

Cheers David

kayzed1 · « **Reply #12 on:** May 21, 2014, 03:29:13 PM »

If you are going to make them for sale John,,,i would buy a 4" lift for my Chester 626..

Lyn.

John Stevenson · « **Reply #13 on:** May 21, 2014, 04:16:14 PM »

I may do at a later date.
June is out as I'm in China for the best part of that month. July will be playing catch up so it looking to be later in the year.

Arbalist · « **Reply #14 on:** May 21, 2014, 04:20:08 PM »

Quote from: kayzed1 on May 21, 2014, 03:29:13 PM

If you are going to make them for sale John,,,i would buy a 4" lift.

So would I but the postage would be a killer ...

John Stevenson · « **Reply #15 on:** May 21, 2014, 04:37:16 PM »

Depends where you are, I travel about a lot and often leave bits with other people for safe keeping

Arbalist · « **Reply #16 on:** May 23, 2014, 05:43:02 AM »

I'm about 200 miles due south John!

One of these would save an awful lot of work.

kayzed1 · « **Reply #17 on:** May 23, 2014, 04:01:36 PM »

Quote from: John Stevenson on May 21, 2014, 04:16:14 PM

I may do at a later date.
June is out as I'm in China for the best part of that month. July will be playing catch up so it looking to be later in the year.

put me on the defo list please ..
Lyn.

Joules · « **Reply #18 on:** August 03, 2014, 01:58:02 PM »

Another possible here....

Joules

Kevin Edwins · « **Reply #19 on:** October 02, 2014, 12:22:20 PM »

Hi all,
I'm new to this forum as found it whilst searching for info on how to raise the head on my chester 626, would anyinr have any details on how best to do this or photos please of best way?

Many thanks

Kevin

12345678910 · « **Reply #20 on:** October 02, 2014, 11:16:23 PM »

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/6x26millingmachines/info

Lots of info on the Yahoo group, photos of the machines and risers, plus a drawing which gets you close

Plus watch the Doubleboost youtube video
Trouble at mill

and well screwed

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Author Topic: 626 Mill Riser Block (Read 24200 times)