1954 Ford 850 Tractor w/blown Head Gasket (at the very least)

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vtsteam:
Andrew, yer gonna git yer wish tonight! :ddb: :ddb: :ddb: :ddb: :ddb: Soon as I get a video all sorted out and uploaded on this slow connection.

Today I got the muffler and headpipe off the old manifold an put it on the new one, connected up the thermostat housing with a new gasket, reconnected the radiator and a new temperature gauge and a new oil gauge, and then spent a good long while adjusting the valves.

You do this by turning the crankshaft with a wrench and watching the valves -- the manual spells out which two should be open, to adjust a different pair, then turn crank and repeat for another pair, etc. four times. Spec said between .016 and .018 so I used both those feeler gauges for go-no go setting.

Ran into a problem with one adjuster that had some kind of thread locker or something in it, don't know why, these all have lock nuts. Anyway got that cleaned out and cleared up.

Put new grommets on the valve cover studs, new cork gasket in the valve cover. Cranked that down. Then I went and found a new small engine gas tank for testing the motor -- I didn't want to mount the tractor tank quite yet -- it makes access a lot harder and the valves are supposed to be readjusted again hot (and idling!) Looks like I'll need 3 hands for that -- one on a screw driver, one on the lock nut wrench and one holding the feeler gauge while getting burnt on the exhaust manifold :scratch:

I mounted the small temporary tank with fiberglass strapping tape (the new bailing twine) added a new fuel filter to the line and added about a cup of gas, feeling a bit conservative. Poured water in the radiator to fill, and then tried to think of what else I should do, besides press the starter button.

mattinker:

--- Quote from: vtsteam on May 29, 2014, 06:41:53 PM ---Andrew, yer gonna git yer wish tonight! :ddb: :ddb: :ddb: :ddb: :ddb: Soon as I get a video all sorted out and uploaded on this slow connection.

Today I got the muffler and headpipe off the old manifold an put it on the new one, connected up the thermostat housing with a new gasket, reconnected the radiator and a new temperature gauge and a new oil gauge, and then spent a good long while adjusting the valves.

You do this by turning the crankshaft with a wrench and watching the valves -- the manual spells out which two should be open, to adjust a different pair, then turn crank and repeat for another pair, etc. four times. Spec said between .016 and .018 so I used both those feeler gauges for go-no go setting.

Ran into a problem with one adjuster that had some kind of thread locker or something in it, don't know why, these all have lock nuts. Anyway got that cleaned out and cleared up.

Put new grommets on the valve cover studs, new cork gasket in the valve cover. Cranked that down. Then I went and found a new small engine gas tank for testing the motor -- I didn't want to mount the tractor tank quite yet -- it makes access a lot harder and the valves are supposed to be readjusted again hot (and idling!) Looks like I'll need 3 hands for that -- one on a screw driver, one on the lock nut wrench and one holding the feeler gauge while getting burnt on the exhaust manifold :scratch:

I mounted the small temporary tank with fiberglass strapping tape (the new bailing twine) added a new fuel filter to the line and added about a cup of gas, feeling a bit conservative. Poured water in the radiator to fill, and then tried to think of what else I should do, besides press the starter button.

--- End quote ---

Waiting with bated breath!!!
Regards, Matthew

Manxmodder:
I didn't want to mount the tractor tank quite yet -- it makes access a lot harder and the valves are supposed to be readjusted again hot (and idling!) Looks like I'll need 3 hands for that -- one on a screw driver, one on the lock nut wrench and one holding the feeler gauge while getting burnt on the exhaust manifold :scratch:

Steve,I have built and serviced a good number of 4 cylinder pushrod motors and never heard of any procedure that requires pushrod tappets to be adjusted with the engine running,the normal method is the static one you have described where a pair are set whilst another corresponding pair are rocking at peak lift.(this paired sequence differs for engines with firing orders of 1342 and 1243)

I really can't see how any form of accurate adjustment could possibly be achieved with the engine running.....OZ. :scratch:

vtsteam:
Here is the video from today -- I hope I have the link right...

[embed=500,375] <object width="500" height="375"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=96871217&force_embed=1&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=1&color=00adef&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=96871217&force_embed=1&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=1&color=00adef&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="500" height="375"></embed></object> <p><a href="">1954 Ford 850 First Start</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user9419463">vtdiy.</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>[/embed]

awemawson:
No link showing for me :scratch:

edit later: It now shows for me on my laptop - earlier I was looking on my iPhone (in bed drinking coffee !)

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