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| Sharpening a cylinder mower - hows it done? |
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| David Jupp:
Looks like my information on this was incomplete - I stand corrected. One thing to look out for on lower cost mowers, the bottom blade can become distorted (some are just a piece of pressed steel) - if the bottom blade isn't straight, no amount of grinding the cylinder will get it to cut well. |
| RussellT:
I've just been thinking about this. I would have thought there is no need to provide clearance behind the cutting edge on the cylinder because it would be much easier to do it by setting the bottom blade to provide the clearance. The cutting on a cylinder mower is by shearing so the cutting should actually take place in font of the blade. I think the clearance is to minimise friction rather than improve cutting. Russell |
| Manxmodder:
--- Quote from: stig on March 25, 2014, 05:13:37 PM ---Thought i'd ask you knowledgable lot first.... Its probaly been mentioned before somewhere Traditionally i've used a file and gauged the amount being removed by the cutter bar...not entirely accurate but it ultimately cuts the grass Anyone any idea how the pro's do it and if it could be replicated easily at home. i own a Harrison L5 lather so could remove and spin the cylinder between centres. i thought of making a traversing angle grinder holder but need ideas/inspiration --- End quote --- Hi Stig, I own an L6 Harrison and I have trued and sharpened a couple of mower cylinders in the past by mounting them between centres and driven by a dog and faceplate setup,though a 4 jaw chuck would also provide a satisfactory mounting arrangement. All I have ever used for this operation is a brazed carbide lathe tool and taken small cuts using the longitudinal power feed until the cylinder is cutting on all blades,then a final sharpen of the lathe tool to take the final cutting pass. You need to spin the cylinder at fairly high rpm and feed at a slow rate to ensure the tool doesn't dig in. If you go this route do some static checks on each blade with the cylinder mounted btwn centres to determine any abnormally high spots.....OZ. |
| tumutbound:
Is this the style machine you're talking about? Not sure of the brand on this one. |
| stig:
--- Quote from: Manxmodder on April 04, 2014, 09:58:36 PM --- Hi Stig, I own an L6 Harrison and I have trued and sharpened a couple of mower cylinders in the past by mounting them between centres and driven by a dog and faceplate setup,though a 4 jaw chuck would also provide a satisfactory mounting arrangement. All I have ever used for this operation is a brazed carbide lathe tool and taken small cuts using the longitudinal power feed until the cylinder is cutting on all blades,then a final sharpen of the lathe tool to take the final cutting pass. You need to spin the cylinder at fairly high rpm and feed at a slow rate to ensure the tool doesn't dig in. If you go this route do some static checks on each blade with the cylinder mounted btwn centres to determine any abnormally high spots.....OZ. --- End quote --- Thanks for that, will give it a go when i get 5 minutes to tear down the mower. i'm also looking at creating some kind of jig to hold an air powered grinder run off the compressor and mount it to the lathe carriage...but that'll be another project for when I'm bored of sitting about on a sunny day |
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