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| BaronJ:
Hi Rick, No problem using an existing arbour ! Just me typing some distracted thoughts. I really ought to go and delete those words. Sorry ! When you say "the diameter is pretty small" do you mean the arbour or the cutting diameter. I only used 16 mm silver steel for the spindle on the first one because it was to hand. The second one was 1/2" turned down so I could put a M10 thread on the end. |
| rick barnes:
No, the cutter holder will only have a diameter about an inch and 5/16th the cutter will be 1/8 square. Mostly because I enjoy making square holes... I was afraid it would jump off and bite me. I have the head socketed into a shoulder on the arbor, and a countersunk screw holding in place. I'm hoping it will run true. |
| BaronJ:
Hi Rick, It won't matter if it wobbles a bit. That is from side to side. If it wobbles up and down you may not get a surface that is square to the table. Re the arbour, I really would consider making one. That way you can ensure that it is true and square. I trued up both cutters in the lathe after attaching the spindle. Which reminds me of why I mentioned caution a couple of posts back. With an interrupted cut the spindle will get hammered once or twice per revolution. This will have the effect of tightening the countersunk screw to the point where you may not be able to undo it. On my slitting saw mandrel I have ground a pair of spanner flats so that I can release the saw when it tightens up to the point of twisting the hex out of the screw. Talking about slitting saw mandrels, I have to make a new one ! I got a new 150 x 1.0 x 72T x 32.2H today and don't have a suitable arbour to fit it. I intend to use a short length of 16 mm silver steel and use a threaded collar to retain the saw blade. :proj: |
| rick barnes:
Does silver steel need to be annealed prior to threading with a tap? When making the head, I finished it on the arbor. It is accidentally indexed with a drill bit. But I see your point about not having a dedicated way to mount it. I have some 0.685 drill rod I may make the mandrel with. |
| BaronJ:
Hi Rick, I'm not sure that there is any difference between silver steel and drill rod, either way the only time that I heat up silver steel is when I am making a tool that I want hardened so that it will cut BMS or black bar. The threads on mine were cut without any preparation other than turning to size and using cutting compound. The attributes of "Silver Steel, Drill Rod and Gauge Plate" are that as you buy them they are soft, ie machinable, ground accurately to size and able to be hardened by heating to a specific temperature, often described as "Cherry Red or Bright Red" and then quenched in oil or water. You can buy grades of these steels that are intended to be water quenched and those that are intended to be oil quenched. It usually specifies on the package wrapper exactly what temperature you should heat up to, to obtain a specific hardness and how long and at what temperature to anneal at. I have only used these steels because I happened to have them to hand. You could equally well use anything convenient to you, particularly if you have a scrapyard or engineering works accessible. I hope that you are going to take some photos of your work. It would be nice to see them. |
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