Tramming an X2 without an indicator

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Brass_Machine:
I ended up buying a tramming tool off of EBAY. Some machinist was making a few... Cheaper than my time and parts to make my own. I can't seem to find him, but the Edge pro tool is on Sale on EBAY

We used to have instructions on how to make your own... But for $99 why bother?

Eric

MetalMuncher:

--- Quote from: Stilldrillin on February 18, 2014, 03:29:12 AM ---I used a bit of drinks can alloy, to shim in Y.

Later, replaced my spring saucer, with a 5/8" thick washer..... http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,7643.msg81954.html#msg81954

The column didn't move, as I trammed and tightened.
Also, it hasn't moved out of tram over the past two years. Fit n forget! :thumbup:

David D

--- End quote ---

Nicely done! I looked at a lot of different ways to do the column stiffening, and I am leaning toward the methods that fasten the column to the base casting. As many have mentioned, I've never found the need to tilt the column on a job. When you bored that hole on the lathe, did you use a 4 jaw chuck? I have one, but it isn't big enough to hold a 4" square. I do have a boring head for the mill, so I would probably have to do that hole with the boring head. Any thoughts on steel versus aluminum for these plates? I have a piece of 1/2" thick 6061 that is 5 inches wide I could use.

Do you think the fact they used the "spring" washer is what contributes to the column flexing, compared to using the flat plate?

Another thing I saw last night was some mention of the head to column fit, and bolts, not being very good on newly arrived mills. And that cleaning and tightening the head bolts on at least one rig totally eliminated the need for the Y axis shims we mentioned above. I know I was in the head once (had to replace a stripped gear before I got the belt drive). But I don't remember if I actually removed the head from the column or had it attached while lying on the bench. Wouldn't I have had to remove it to access the internal gears? Memory isn't so great anymore. :)

I did the cleaning suggested on one of the mini-mill websites during the initial setup, before using the mill. But that was almost 10 years ago. :)

MetalMuncher:

--- Quote from: Brass_Machine on February 18, 2014, 09:25:45 AM ---I ended up buying a tramming tool off of EBAY. Some machinist was making a few... Cheaper than my time and parts to make my own. I can't seem to find him, but the Edge pro tool is on Sale on EBAY

We used to have instructions on how to make your own... But for $99 why bother?

Eric

--- End quote ---

I've looked at these things several times, and the same question always came to mind. Perhaps you can finally answer it for me? When you mount a pair of indicators this way, aren't they somewhat adjustable as to being vertically plumb? And if so, how would one ever know they are adjusted perfectly? Or are they rigidly mounted, with no user adjustment for zero, and perfectly calibrated when made?

Thanks!

MM

Stilldrillin:
Eric.
Having been here, while those were Modder produced. I still don't get them. They seem a complicated way to solve a simple problem. Also, introducing their own problems. :scratch:

Unless, I'm mistaken....... :palm:

Lawrence.
I'm sure the spring washer, flexing the hollow column face, is a factor......

That is a big nut. I would use no less than 1/2" thick steel. Wider than the column.

Easily drilled/ bored on the mill.
My stud is 2mm to one side of the column centre line. Check before making an "offset" plate! :thumbup:

David D

BaronJ:

--- Quote from: Stilldrillin on February 18, 2014, 02:57:09 PM ---Eric.
Having been here, while those were Modder produced. I still don't get them. They seem a complicated way to solve a simple problem. Also, introducing their own problems. :scratch:

Unless, I'm mistaken....... :palm:
David D

--- End quote ---

I'm one who set to and made my own ! It terms of money £20 plus some time.
In my case the supplier of the dial gauges sent two slightly different ones. Apart from the differences that can be seen in the photos, the stem of one was 1/4" longer than the other. It doesn't actually matter if they are not exactly the same stylus hight since you just rotate the scale to get a zero reference. Obviously you have to calibrate each gauge but that is very easy. Indeed all you need to do is pick a point on the machine table and set one gauge to zero. Rotate the whole lot 180 degrees and zero the other gauge with the stylus at the same point. From this point on any head tilt will be shown on the gauges. One will be plus something and the other will be minus something. Now all you have to do is move the head until both gauges read the same.

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