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| machining wood :) help please |
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| Fergus OMore:
An addition to what has been said already. Mahogany is one of those cross grained woods. The description of mahogany isn't quite sufficient because there are literally dozens of varieties which used to be simply Honduras and African. So you need razor sharp tooling, small depth of cut and highest speeds to get anything of a finish. And don't end up like me. I was doing the pram front on a Mirror dinghy copy on a Myford PR11planer and ended up having more skin planed off - for the skin graft on my left hand. Norman |
| Arbalist:
I cut the joints and finger grips for my surface plate box on my mill. The grips (slots) were done with a bull nosed cutter. Wood is Poplar. |
| Meldonmech:
Hi Tony Rig up a vacuum tube as closely as possible to the cutter, all hardwoods produce fine dust which is toxic, wear a mask. The dust can also get into the moving parts of the machine. Take care Cheers David |
| Brass_Machine:
--- Quote from: Meldonmech on January 10, 2014, 08:27:20 AM ---Hi Tony Rig up a vacuum tube as closely as possible to the cutter, all hardwoods produce fine dust which is toxic, wear a mask. The dust can also get into the moving parts of the machine. Take care Cheers David --- End quote --- I second that. Easy to do and makes things a lot safer/healthier and easier to clean up. I was able to mill wood just fine on my X2, so 2200 RPM should e plenty fast enough. Keep an eye on the speeds. I got some burnt wood by going to slow. As others said, try a scrap piece 1st. Eric |
| AdeV:
I've milled MDF on my Bridgeport @ 2300rpm, using a single-bladed router bit, with no problems - other than the periennial dust, which the shop vac took care of. I didn't wear a mask because I like living on the edge... (actually, because it never occurred to me). Personally I'd recommend using router bits simply because you won't abrade your expensive HSS tooling. Plus router bits come in all fancy shapes & sizes for relatively little money. |
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