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| Jaguar XJS V12 racing car |
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| AdeV:
--- Quote from: DavidA on October 18, 2014, 05:52:08 AM --- But , and I think Ade will agree with me on this, the most important thing is to really look at what you are going to replace before you cut it out. And ask yourself 'is there something I can fix my new part to ?' Just chopping out great swaves of rusty metal will leave you with no reference points, or anchorage places for the good metal. You have to plan well ahead. --- End quote --- Yep, I definitely agree with that... I'm very nervous of moving stuff around on the chassis; even though I don't plan to use most of the original anchor points (unless absolutely forced to). Also, you'll notice that all the bits I've replaced so far (including the 2 floor panels that I've not photographed yet) are pretty easy shapes to produce. There's some interesting recurved pieces to come which I've no idea how I'll make.... I'll probably outsource them to the chap next door, who loves doing this sort of stuff. I also want to widen the back of the car by about 2" each side, to fit wider wheels, but I need to (somehow!) keep that iconic XJS profile. I'm thinking of ordering a few kgs of plasticine and doing the classic car design thing - lump it on there, shape it up; and once I've got it spot on, I'll make a fibreglass mould, and use that to make a carbon fibre panel. Then, either cut out the original metalwork; or just leave it in (weight over the rear wheels isn't necessarily a bad thing on a rear-drive car), and bond the CF panel to the original metalwork. Ambitious, I know.... but I like the idea much more than I like the idea of trying to form it in steel... |
| nel2lar:
It is a great thing when something that will never be made again is brought back to life. A Jaguar XJS V12 race car is a special mo-chine. I live in the USA and the cars sold here are not the performance models, they are the cut back standard with all the emissions that rob horse power and performance. Many years ago a man I knew bought a Porsche 911 Targa Carrera while in Germany. He brought it back to the USA and came to the relization it was a race car and not legal in import. The last time I heard it was still in his garage under cover. When driving you could shift 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear and never be able to sit forward. It had so much torque at 55 mph you could pull it back into 2nd gear and take off like a rocket. Too bad the Jag has an automatic but much nicer when touring. Looking good, keep us up to date I would like to see how it comes out. On another build, check out this site, it has some 36 pages but it is more than worth it. The site is: http://forums.aaca.org/f190/construction-continental-mark-ii-model-scale-278354.html Cheers Nelson Collar |
| AdeV:
Thanks Nelson, I do intend to stick a proper manual gearbox in - either an American Tremec (which is a bolt-in replacement for the autobox, apparently); or I might put the Toyota Supra R154 box I already have in (but that will need engineering work at both ends to fit properly); final option would be a 6-speed BMW box, but that's earmarked for the Granada project now... So, we shall see. I'd prefer to get a 'box with straight cut gears, for that authentic race-car whine (and better strength, of course). Meanwhile.... more of the same old, same old. Find rust, tidy up around rust, make plate, weld plate in, blow over with zinc primer, rinse & repeat.... Pics show: The plates I made up to close the holes I cut in the floor. A new plate on the inside of the cabin which go where the front of the back seats are. I'm not sure what that bit's called. Anyway, it's frilly as hell, so it gets beefed up. Finally, the rear seat back corners are holed on both sides, so a plate is made up to cover the damage. Lacking the properly shaped hammers, my colleague used the back of an impact screwdriver to make the basic curve shape, tack welds were used to keep everything in place while the next bit of corner was made. Just visible in the last picture, is a V-shaped piece which ties the wheel well back to the body of the car... I haven't started on the floor pans yet.... |
| DavidA:
Just decided I need more cornflake boxes. Dave. |
| AdeV:
Since the last update, a couple of months ago, a lot of thinking, planning and general other things which don't involve any actual progress have been going on.... First up, to stay in my chosen class, I am sorely restricted on what I can do. So, widening the car is a no-no, as is fattening and lowering the sills to contain the exhausts. I can't say I'm totally surprised at this, but it's a tad disappointing nonetheless. So.... I have to work out what size wheel I can fit under the arches as they are, and work accordingly, I can still tweak the offsets to fit slightly larger width wheels in the back, not sure what I can do with the front. Time will tell... So... I've been thinking about engine stuff. Having decided a complete strip down will be essential (if nothing else, the chain tensioner is likely to want replacing), then I might as well go bananas on the engine instead of the body work. That way, if this one bites the dust, I can use the engine in something else... As it happens, the racing car show is on in just over a week, so I'll be going to that, and I will be tackling people about ceramic coatings, fancy pistons, custom ground cams, etc... I figure a budget of around £5k for the engine should see me getting between 600-700bhp, depending on how well I can make it breathe. And, conveniently, that brings us on to some actual photo progress :) Having made the lower part of the inlet port adapter plate some time ago, I finally got around to making the upper part of the plate - still in wax, this is just a prototype. As usual, I drew it first in SolidWorks, then imported to CamBam, a spot of fettling in CamBam, make the "G-code" (Heidenhain code actually); throw a wax plate I'd made earlier onto the machine, line it up, and go! Almost unbelievably (not quite... I'd used paper test prints) the throttle bodies fitted right on, and sat nicely over the existing plate. The green one is the new plate, the cream coloured one the old "underplate". The two will bolt together to form a complete piece. I have to make it in 2 parts because there's all kinds of interference going on - the head bolts get in the way; the heads themselves are in the way, the mounting bolts on the under plate are mirrored in the middle of the engine, it's chaos down there. Meanwhile, the BMW throttle bodies all sit in a nice line with all the bolts in the same direction, which just causes problems: Overall height was a concern - but it turns out that the top of the highest point of the inlet is still (just) below the top of the filler cap; so I should have some room under the bonnet. If it's a bit marginal, I'll cut holes in the bonnet to let air in that way. Also, I can shave about 8mm off the combined height of the two plates, and still just about have enough metal to do everything I want to do with it, so that'll be done for the final versions. I've still got the flywheel to design/make... that will be interesting... |
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