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| AdeV:
Hi Dave, At least your car has green on it... mine only has brown... :ddb: Welding will be a mixture of TIG and MIG - mig for the easy stuff, tig for any aluminium welding I might need to do. My mig welder is a bit fierce for thin BL sheet metal, so I might TIG some of the body stuff as well, for better control. |
| DavidA:
...At least your car has green on it... mine only has brown... Problem is that the green has small live critters living in it. Like you, I will be using a mix of welding methods. I used to do a lot of welding, mostly gas. I did some TIG at the chicken factory, but it was mostly stainless; and quite thick (AKA easy). I do have both MIG and TIG, The TIG is a scratch start. May change it for an hf machine. But watching how the guys on these tv reconstruction documentaries I see that they tend to use MIG in a pulsed mode. Lots of small spots along a butt seam. Doesn't give the metal time to warp. I'm looking forward to the challenge. Dave. :dremel: |
| Kjelle:
Dave, those guys are simulating spot welding... I think it's called "plug welding" in the trade... Kjelle |
| AdeV:
--- Quote from: Kjelle on September 29, 2014, 11:19:59 PM ---Dave, those guys are simulating spot welding... I think it's called "plug welding" in the trade... --- End quote --- There are a couple of techniques - plug welds are the large circular ones which simulate spots; but pulse mode is basically seam welding, but leaving gaps. A good welding machine will let you set both the pulse and off durations so you can fine tune the amount of weld on any given length. Personally, I prefer a seam weld to be literally welded end-to-end, but I will manually pulse the machine rather than use its pulse feature, I guess I just prefer to be in control... |
| DavidA:
Kjelle, I know the technique you are thinking of, and use it a lot. But it is used where, as you say, you would preferably use a spot welder but either can't get to both sides of the job or, like me, haven't got a spot welder. It also needs an overlap at the joint so you can drill a series of holes in one side of the joint. As Ade says, the other technique, the one I will use, allows you to butt the edges together (leaving a small gap) and then apply a series of quick spots of weld to bridge the gap. I usually place them about an inch apart. Then either seam weld between them or carry on filling in with more spots. There are two advantages to this method, First it allows you to retain the original contour (no overlap) and second it greatly educes the risk of the metal warping with the heat. It's tedious, but very satisfying when you finish the weld and it is invisible. Dave |
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