The Shop > Our Shop
New Workshop Addition
Joules:
vtsteam,
prior to me getting the stove I had designed and started to build a charcoal stove for external use, it was going to have a coaxial jacket and through the wall pipe so workshop air was blown through the outer pipe into the jacket and the central pipe returns hot air back into the workshop. There are some marine stoves that use charcoal and I had based the design on them, but designed my own coaxial wall fitting and jackets. The fans used are just PC fans, and the charcoal should have been good for several hours burn unattended. I had looked into water jackets and using a car radiator, but it just gets real messy real quick with plumbing, anti freeze and venting the system externally.
The flue pipe for a small charcoal burner only needs be about 1.5" diameter as the charcoal smoulders rather than burns that means you can use stainless vehicle exhaust tubing and the stove body can be made from stainless tube used to build exhaust silencers. The whole lot gets insulated Rockwool/vermiculite then jacketed in more thin stainless sheet or use spiral wound galv tubing. The output was calculated at about 2-3kw and I guess would have taken quite a while to heat my workshop in comparison to the stove.
Many years ago I installed a multifuel stove in a log cabin, it had wooden floors so we built a hearth from ceramic fibre board and granite worktop to insulate the stove from the floor insulated stainless splash back (used in kitchens behind the cooker) protected the wall. This stove had a stainless flue through the wooden roof and used spiral wound galvanised tube for the outer twin wall. The twin wall was uninsulated as the whole building would rise and fall over an inch during the year so the internal flue could move inside the spiral tube that was attched to the roof. The flue was capped with a top hat arrangement that kept the weather out the spiral tube and allowed movement. That was many years ago when I was learning about heating systems and flue designs. The stove was only taken out of commision last year and is waiting to be reinstalled, no problems in 10yrs use other than the first year discovering how much the building moved!!! and redesigning the flue.
vtsteam:
Joules, thanks for all those ideas, very helpful! And interesting.
I do happen to have everything needed for a hydronic installation already on hand, from disassembling an earlier HAHSA outside woodburning unit for my house -- one I built from plans. That was a monster and had many problems. I later built a green wood chip burning furnace that was much simpler and more effective, but had its problems as well. I'm onto my third generation of ideas about external furnaces. The shop might be a better experimental size for that than the house!
But I'm beginning to come around to hot air instead of hydronic heat -- mainly because I'm thinking about space considerations. I can't use a baseboard radiator -- benches and machines in the way. A suspended radiiator is just an additional object and project.
On the other hand, hot air doesn't need any heat exchanger in the building, just an entry vent, so really it makes the most sense where space is restricted. I'm just wondering how much heat loss it will have in severe winters. Ducts are much bigger and harder to insulate than water pipes, and losses will be substantial. A small duct won't do to heat my 200 sq ft space on piers.
Anyway, back to your topic. It's such a beautiful piece of heating equipment and setup, and man. you're baking bread! Absolutely enviable!
Jonny:
Joules I have never had any condensation using the Calor.
Know you can get the flue pipes and bends cheaper but not by much.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/search/filter/vitreous-enamelled-flue-pipe/type/any/module/shopcategory/page/1
They dont do or recommend 90 degree bends and I would have needed 4 off plus a top hat. Tube I would have got from stockholders about £20.
4 of these for better flow £208 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-90-Degree-Bend-Vitreous-Enamel-for-Multifuel-Stove-/350153950035?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Other_Fireplaces&hash=item5186cd4353#ht_1096wt_932
Cheapest seen bends is £25 each.
The only place it could have gone is similar to yours but flue straight up to ceiling 90 degree, carry across inside of roof then 90 degrees up through inner wood roof and floor, 90 degrees out through brick wall followed by 90 degree to straighten back up vertically outside clearing the 18" eaves, brackets and top hat.
To cap that I use the ceiling to store longer lengths of materials and chuck empty boxes and light unused machines etc above it to keep noise down.
vtsteam:
I think what he means is that an unvented gas or kerosene heater increases the moisture content of the air and condensation, not a vented heater.
SwarfnStuff:
I would love something like that. BUT, then I would have to stand outside me shop cos there would not be enuff room inside. :clap: Kinda defeats the purpose. Oh well, at least I can reach all my tools and stuff an arms length or one step away at most.
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