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| FJ Edwards 4ft x 14G Box Pan Folder |
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| Pete W.:
Hi there, Andrew, --- Quote from: awemawson on September 02, 2013, 02:43:32 PM ---Steve, SNIP Also one of the counterweights on the hold down levers was mounted backwards - a previous re-builder got it wrong I reckon ! --- End quote --- Slightly :offtopic: Some years ago, one department of my then employers down-sized a drawing office and disposed of a few drawing boards and stands. The company had a very civilised system through which employees could legally acquire redundant equipment and so one of these boards and stands duly arrived, in pieces, in my 'study' (actually the half bedroom of our 2½ bedroom house.) I think the maker of the stand was 'Allbrit', it was mostly cast iron with a series of levers to allow the actual drawing board to be adjusted in both tilt and height, controlled by a foot-pedal. I put all the various parts together but, not having seen the stand before it was dismantled, I fitted the two very large cast iron counter-weights the wrong way round. When I tried operating the foot pedal, the board moved into the flat & level position and shot upwards at an alarming rate. The front edge of the board missed my chin by a couple of millimetres! Phew!!! |
| vtsteam:
--- Quote from: awemawson on September 02, 2013, 02:43:32 PM ---Steve, I was thinking of you when I was blasting the four weights that counterbalance the arms on this folder! As I blasted away I was blasting away loads of filler that was covering up blow holes in the castings ! The main body castings are good and sound, but at least two of the counterweights have some nice holes that would keep you and Ironman tearing your hair out. Also one of the counterweights on the hold down levers was mounted backwards - a previous re-builder got it wrong I reckon ! --- End quote --- Haha!! :lol: good to know blowholes will always remind people of my casting efforts! |
| awemawson:
Time to start de-rusting the 'fingers' or 'teeth' that do the box pan hold down job. There is a considerable weight of them - I decided to use a small plastic cattle trough that I bought for a similar purpose to de-rust bits of my 'Dominion Universal Woodworker' (16" Planer / thicknesser with 20" rip saw and pull over saw) that I rebuilt early last year The bits are all rather 'pointy' for a plastic tank so I sat them on wooden battens - this also lets the fluid get at the undersides. |
| awemawson:
In an ideal world I would have de-greased the bits - they weren't actually too oily as it's sat in a cattle byre for many years with straw blowing around. I decided to put a good few squirts of Fairy Liquid in the mix to lower the surface tension. No doubt I'll have to give them all a good scrub with a nylon 'sink brush' The good thing about Citric Acid is that you can put your hands in it without harm - they will all need removing, scrubbing and re-stacking in a different order so the bits currently touch can be treated. You can also pour the citric acid down the sink with impunity - after all it's only lemon juice! I included a couple of pictures of the Dominion Universal Woodworker that I referred to. It has proved really useful in our recent house refurbishment - amusing to see it placed where the Traub lathe now sits, that's the end of that 'project space' |
| awemawson:
I decided to add a bar across the front joining left and right legs. Not only would this stop the tendency for the legs to fold when moving the machine, but also allow me to slip a pallet truck under it for local moving in the workshop if I mounted it at the same height as the rear folded panel. I did consider that maybe there was a good reason for there not being a front bar - access perhaps. The bar has 5 1/2" clearance from the floor so adequate room for toes to go under if working close. I did however decide to bolt it on rather than weld, just in case there is a reason I haven't thought of for not having a bar ! |
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