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awemawson:
Well done - smart and practical.

I've never put on a shingle roof so am talking about something I know nothing, but I had always presumed that the grain of the shingles was laid to the fall of the roof giving the water a far better chance of run off and better watertightness if a shingle splits. I'd also assumed that it would have sarking felt  or its modern equivalent laid to the roof before battening as you would with tiles or slates.

Pete W.:
Hi there, Ross and all,

I enjoyed this thread very much.  Ross, if only the car parking was easier around your gaff   :bang:   :bang:   :bang:   :bang: , I might have come over for a cultural exchange visit or two. 

I agree with Andrew about the grain direction of  shingles but also I understand that proper shingles are riven, not sawn.  I don't know what species of wood would be used for that, perhaps our American friends will tell us?
I bet there'll be someone making them at the next Milland Rural Fair!

On some jobs, my father would first hold each nail head down on something massive and strike the point with his hammer to blunt the tip - he reckoned this made the nail cut its way through the wood fibres instead of wedging between them, thus reducing the tendency for splitting.  I've tried it and it works!

RossJarvis:

--- Quote from: awemawson on September 07, 2013, 03:38:11 AM ---Well done - smart and practical.

I've never put on a shingle roof so am talking about something I know nothing, but I had always presumed that the grain of the shingles was laid to the fall of the roof giving the water a far better chance of run off and better watertightness if a shingle splits. I'd also assumed that it would have sarking felt  or its modern equivalent laid to the roof before battening as you would with tiles or slates.

--- End quote ---

 :Doh:

Awemawson, you have spotted two of my deliberate mistakes! :Doh:

I don't know much about roof coverings, so was using feather board,  as it's wedge shaped in profile I put it on thin end to the top, so the grain's across the roof.  If I did it again, I'd follow what you're saying, which seems right and probably use parallel faced board.  On mark 1 there's a lot of problems with splits and curling of the shingles.  I'd thought about some kind of barrier, roof felt or whatever, but couldn't be bothered if the truth were told.  I'm sort of hoping the overlaps will keep some wet stuff out.  However as I miscalculated the number of boards, twice :bang:.  the overlap actually decreases toward the top as I'm one run of shingles down.  However I think this blends the top run in with the rest.  Let's just hope the drying action of not-wet days, is compensation for wet penetration on wet days.  If you look at the inside photo of the roof, you can see the gaps!

Well observed and I'll follow your advice or look up a book :coffee: for mark 3.  Thanks for the comments :beer:

RossJarvis:

--- Quote from: Pete W. on September 07, 2013, 04:08:24 AM ---
I agree with Andrew about the grain direction of  shingles but also I understand that proper shingles are riven, not sawn.  I don't know what species of wood would be used for that, perhaps our American friends will tell us?
I bet there'll be someone making them at the next Milland Rural Fair!

On some jobs, my father would first hold each nail head down on something massive and strike the point with his hammer to blunt the tip - he reckoned this made the nail cut its way through the wood fibres instead of wedging between them, thus reducing the tendency for splitting.  I've tried it and it works!

--- End quote ---

Hiya Pete :wave:

I think cedar is a popular waterproof choice, though I can't remember if that's traditionally British (chestnut?), and it's split with a froe traditionally here.  That's another learning curve to go through :coffee: plus learning how to put them on and which way round.

I think I heard about the nail trick, but forgot it.  I'd love to learn all these old ways before they're forgotten.

cheers Pete and thanks for your kind comments.

Ross

DaveH:
Ross,
I think it is very well made with all the proper joints and all.
Being as you have shown me yours, I show you mine  :D
 :beer:
DaveH

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