Looking to replace my aged and worn ML7

[NickG]

It'll work fine but just wondering whether the nvr switch gear will work or whether it needs 3 phase. The thermal overload things might kick in because think it draws more current single phase, that'd be a pain.

[Fergus OMore]

Nick, The wiring diagrams for Myford lathes are on the net. The symbols of the motors  wiring connections  are under the individual  motor covers.

Off hand, I suspect that most older drum type Myford switches are faulty because of arcing or wear.

[ParCan]

I'm well versed in turning things dry or using a spray bottle for coolant.

Now I have the required tray etc. I was thinking today (during a rather boring meeting) about a coolant pump.
I have a Motorcycle fuel pump kicking around.

Will that work ? It has a pressure switch on it, no idea what pressure though.....

What does the Tank need to be made from ? I don't want it to get eaten through.... It needs to be Low Cost ! Old plastic oil can ? Petrol Can ?
I have some Plastic pipe that would (Should) be suitable.

I guess i'll need to buy some sort of wiggly tube with a tap on it.

Comments and ideas welcome.

[Fergus OMore]

Myford/ Pressure pump/coolant??????


If you want to cover you and who and what- do it. In a rash moment, I bought one of those confounded things- and ended up with---- a rash.

Me? I have a cheap paint brush, a pate jar and some lard oil. 

[doubleboost]

I used a pond pump for years in my Colchester
Cheap on ebay 240 volt fully submersible
A large plastic tank is all you need
Buy decent soluble oil
I use water all the time on my boxford
John

[ParCan]

Got it all setup and tightened down.
From 4 loose nuts and a bit of bar in the chuck the dial gague on the end of the bar does not move as I tighten it down.

With a bit of 3/4 bar in the chuck and a centre on the end I have turned a 14" length.
End to end I have .007mm More than good enough for me

Hope to get some time to do some work at the weekend. May well look at the coolant pump idea.
Cheepo articulated pipe doofahs arrived today. looks like a 1/2" BSP thread on the bottom.
I'm sure I can bore that.
I have a bit of 3/4 square ally and some T nuts to make a clampy doofah whatsit.
I have something suitable for a feed pipe and some plastic tube.
Local shop sells a variety of plastic storage boxes for a tank.

I'll try and take some pictures as I go.

[awemawson]

The test for parallelarity is to turn a piece without a centre support from the tailstock - not so easy unless the bar is stiff enough. The cetnre will pull the bar considerably.

The classic method is known as 'Rollie's Dad's Method' and is linked here:

http://www.neme-s.org/Rollie's_Dad's_Method.pdf

[Trebor]

You lucky sod ! I would have liked one like this, what spindle bore size is this one ? I got my s7 out of the paper adds years ago local. Didn't know much about them at the time, still don't, otherwise  I would have saved up for a big bore one.

[ParCan]

Spindle Bore is the standard Myford 16mm so not a Big Bore.

Spent another 2 hours removing blue grease from various places.

Took the top off the gearbox and found more blue grease so drained the oil and there are (were) globs of it in the bottom.
After running the oil through a paper filter (cos most of it is brand new) to remove what I can the Paper looked very clean. Few large bits of swarf. Some large grease globs but no fine matter. I say the oil is good to go. I'll run it for a while and probably change it when all the grease contamination has washed itself into the oil in a few months time.

Chucked up a lump of 1" bar and used "Rollies Dads" method to true it all up.
It was about .2mm out over 400mm
A quick adjustment to the rising blocks and it's darn near spot on.
Thanks awemawson for the method.

I think once I redo the tail I'll be good to go

[ParCan]

Took apart the Fuel pump. It's quite a nice lil Pump / Motor all in 1 sealed unit.
It's also got a nylon bag type filter on the bottom which should keep the crud out.
A Suitable bucket which fits inside the cab was found.
A suitable bit of pipe that fits the drain hole has also been installed so it don't miss said bucket.
Bucket filled with a suitable mix of Coolant.

Pipework connected to check the pump and the pump works
Pump is dangling in the bucket secured with a cable tie or 3.
Electrical connections made.

Now to make a bracket for the feed pipe doofah...

A bit of 3/4" Square ally was put in the 4 jaw.
8.5mm hole was put in the side for a pipe connection and tapped M10.
Drilled 15mm deep X 10 dia and bored out to 11.5mm to meet with the M10 hole.
Found 19TPI on the gear box. 55deg threading tool fitted. Back Gear engaged.
Decided the forwards / reverse method was best for 19TPI (A BSP pipe Thread)
Managed to cut the thread really nicely, and without bottoming out !
Odd bit of 10mm dia brass drilled then the outside Threaded M10 for the pipe connection.
8mm hole and a Suitable Bolt to mount it on the cross slide.

Connected it all up and it's a bit to much flow and far to much presure.
Suitable 10R resistor wired in series and it's perfic

I have a coolant pump

[ParCan]

1st turning job under way.

I'm making cable nipples for the brake cables in my Car.

It has Manually adjusted Cable drums all round. No Hydrolics on that one!

Adjusters are made.
Cut M6 threaded brass to length. Drill 2.2mm through and centre drill Both ends. The end end should be deeper with a nice chamfer.
The cable is around 2mm outside dia.

Cut the cable and clean it. Flux it well.
Flux the hole well and feed the cable through + 2.5mm
Clamp the bottom and peen over the inner cable. It'll spiral and Mushroom into the chamfer if you get it right.
More flux then Silver solder it. Make sure it flows all the way through.
Put a nice fillet on the bottom and hey presto.
Clean ALL the flux off the steel cable or it'll rot through.

3 adjuster ends made and soldered. Still need to remake all the fittings and oddments.