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Building a Penny Pusher Arcade Game |
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cidrontmg:
Noitoen mentioned about magnetic materials, as some euro (or euro cent) coins are, and also the British coinage. Good point. 1p and 2p are copper-plated steel, 5p and 10p are the new coins made of nickel-plated steel. The rest (bigger denominations) are not magnetic (all others are varying percentages cupronickel, £1 is nickel-brass). Depends on what you want for these magnetic materials. E.g. you might want a "clean and level field", like a formica or corian table tops, or stainless steel might be feasible (it slides easily). But a steel plate top might not be a well-received idea. Some Neodymium magnet "pills" would accumulate for enormous coin mounds... That's a very good idea, your penny pusher! :clap: |
NickG:
Yeah i think the wiper motor will have enough torque, the worm and wheel Will give quite a reduction would Imagine in the order of 20:1? Imagine that with conventional gearing ... A 20 tooth going to a 400 tooth. |
John Rudd:
--- Quote from: NickG on August 06, 2013, 06:18:42 AM ---This is a great project Chris but have to admit am glossing over the electronics bits - straight over my head! --- End quote --- You only have to shout out if you need help.... :zap: There are plenty of knowledgeable folk on here, someone is bound to have an answer to a question ( err...just dont include me...I know nothing... :scratch: :zap: ) |
srm_92000:
Hi, When I started reading this thread I was doing a job on my little X0 mill that needed a lot of slots cutting in it, I also plan to make quite a few of these and was thinking how great just some basic power feed would be.. :proj: So when I read this thread a big light went on. I could use a wiper motor !!!!!. So not half an hour later a few ebay purchases were secured. Yesterday these turned up. The motor cost £6 inc postage as it didn't park the wipers any-more - no problem for me. It's from a Corsa C, comes apart easy, is well built mechanically and shows hardly any signs of wear. The controller is the £8 one from etang. It has well specified parts and works great with the motor on both the low and high speed connections. I've included a schematic I drew for those interested, it includes all the protection required with no extra parts needed. Base frequency measured on my scope is about 16.5 Khz. I hope the manufacturer/seller doesn't mind me putting this in but there is no way I could build this for £8 anyhow so I can't see it can harm. (untested circuit - build at your own risk values etc may be wrong.) |
vtsteam:
Thanks for the schematic -- that should be useful for mine if it needs repairs some day! I'd love to see your final setup on the mill when you build it. That's what I bought mine for, as well. Hope you saw this for additional info: http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,8810.0.html also of interest: http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_mill/Modifications/Power_feed/power_feed.htm There are other sites on the net and I think a series in HSM magazine some time back -- mill drill adventures? |
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