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A0 Bonelle TCG - Metric drawings

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NeoTech:
For us who are imperial impaired.. I found these after some extensive google-fu

http://www.mosoft.nl/slijpmachine/A0%20Bonelle%20TCG%20drawings%20Metric.pdf

Fergus OMore:
Actually the Bonelle is a fabricated version of Professor Dennis Chaddock's Quorn tool and cutter grinder.
Probably it is slightly easier and a little cheaper as it avoids castings.
Really, the Imperial/Metric comment is not too important because the main three pieces of precision ground steel- ie 1.000" and 1.250" are easily changed. Chaddock in his blurb goes on to suggest that the clamps and the ball handles can be made in any old thread- imperial BSF/BSW. SAE and whatever.

Long before all this, one of my old matey's made one up a Quorn from welded up scrap. I think that I upset a few purists( actually a lot) by saying that it was better.

Mine- made from castings but avoiding the dreaded closing of nipping from split holes( a la George Thomas) is rusting under the bench.

It's interesting work which teaches many lessons.

tekfab:
Well Fergus I'm sure it would be better not rusting in a nice little spot I have in mind so if you want to sell it i would like to have first refusal ?
Keep up the good work !

Mike

unc1esteve:
I completed the Bonelle T&CG.  I posted pictures of it on the Quorn owners site.  I would post a picture here but my life is too short to invest time trying to learn, understand and follow the recent instructions on this site.  The little smiley faces say this thread is worthless without picts but I just do not get it.

During this build I ran into the same discussion about imperial/metric dimensions and thread sizes.  I do not understand this either.  If I need a particular system of measurement I press the button on my digital caliper.  I do not understand the need to make totally new drawings.  I write the required dimension next to the offending one.  I use a thread conversion chart printed off the internet.  Should I not have the called out thread I use the next closest one from the chart and make the notation on the drawing.  I am not an engineer so I do not understand the many, subtle nuances of screw thread design.  There are many things I do not understand.

I live in Shreveport, LA, where we benefit from the constant high humidity of the Gulf Coast.  One of which is it is a perfect environment for iron oxide.  My machine sits on the top of my bench rusting away.  I used a black oxide coating on every part I could and used chrome bars and brass.  But the items not protected or changed rust.  I try to avoid wiping with oil because of the grinding dust.  I long ago gave up the idea of keeping metal parts in this environment bright.  Dust is another problem.  My area is air-conditioned but the outside dust still gets in and settles upon everything.  Being an old man and living alone, I just let it settle.  A cover would help but not with the rust.  I prefer to see the enemy.  Your machine would fit right in.  Were I closer I would try to talk you out of it.  I have found many uses for the grinder and have had occasion to make more accessorizes and modifications.

Am reading Thomas's books and just read about the superior wedging effect of the split cotters.  The Bonelle uses all split cotters.

I made mine from scrap bar stock from an hydraulic repair shop.  The shop lets me take whatever I find in their rubbish can.  The only expense was for the motor, belt, wiring.

The Bonelle is much better than the Quorn for making modifications as you are not limited by the castings.

Fergus OMore:
Two answers- I hope both are constructive :loco:

The first is the Quorn itself and from time to time, I want a little grinder on my mill and detach part of the Quorn to do this. The late Philip Amos did something similar- and wrote it up.

And so to Uncle Steve( greetings and welcome). AS you know, the normal way to do the bed bars is to bore and then split the casting. My experience was that my first Quorn ( there are or were two) nipped up once the bore was done. It's a so and so and I'd hit it when I did the Westbury mill and scraping the round column in was nigh impossible. Digressing, but you did raise dear old George Thomas, he hit the same problem with the Mark One castings for the Universal Pillar Tool. When I did mine- to Bill Bennett's book and not George's original, I had no problems with the Mark Two's.

A little aside- I'can't do photos :doh:

Kind regards

Norman

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