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| tom osselton:
Exellent job your doing! :clap: |
| mattinker:
--- Quote from: tom osselton on October 12, 2013, 02:03:54 AM ---Exellent job your doing! :clap: --- End quote --- Well Tom, I'm not very convinced by the "Excellent job", I've been putting off boring out to sleeve as it's taken the wind out of my sales! Anyway, here we go! Before re-boring to sleeve, I decided to square up the two remaining sides. To do this I moved the locating pins to allow mounting 90°s from the boring axis. I had a bit of trouble seating, one of the pins was a little proud which made it rock. I didn't think much of this and proceeded to square up and clamp down. Fly cutting the first side. Checking the first face for square. The second face was very close to the carriage. Not much room for manoeuvre! It cleaned nicely. So, on to the boring bit. Centring the bore. I'm too absent minded to count the number of turns of the handle of the cross slide, so I "G" clamped a pair of callipers to the cross slide. Having found the first side with an edge finder, zeroed and and back to the second edge. Wound back to half the distance et voila, the centre. The crunch, not only was the bore over sized, it was also high on the left and low on the right!! I obviously hadn't screwed the guide dowels in far enough when I bored it first time round. I've been back over the photos I think I can see screw threads that show that both of the pins are proud! Result, I have to sleeve both ends and remake the split cotter.! To allow me to remove the casting and put it back in the same place (I'm going to press the sleeves in.) I made a stop with two bolts to be sure it won't move! This is my piece of Al for the sleeves, if you look closely, you can see "Perrier" written on it. I use "Soda" cans buried in in dry sand as ingot moulds, which also make nice "billets"! That's it for today I hope to get back to this soon as I'd like to start on the next phase! Regards, Matthew |
| mattinker:
Hi, I'm certainly learning a lot on this project! I don't think that this next bit is very interesting. You can see how far out the bore was. I wasn't sure whether it was worth sleeving or whether it would be better to go back to the beginning and cast another! I decided it was less work to bore it out. I bored out from both sides. I had to reface both ends so that the sleeves would fit flush. I made two sleeves, the one on the left is for the chuck end, I lengthened the sleeve so that the spindle would be offset to allow clearance for the chuck mounting nuts and studs, originally I had planned to add a steel spacer. The right hand one has the banjo mounting on it. I cut the banjo mount off the casting so that the banjo would mount square to the body and line up the gears. I also made another split cotter as lining up the old one wasn't worth the effort! I've already documented the boring operation. I pressed in the interference fit plugs in with my 16ton press. I trued up the end faces of the casting between centres and fitted the spindle. So, here it is, where I thought I was about a week ago! I managed to get a nice sliding fit on the shaft. Fortunately, the shaft is 30mm, so I was able to use one of my Moore & Wright bore gauges which helped a lot! I bought a cheap set of bore gauges that really aren't worth bothering with. I was thinking about a dial bore gauge anybody got any suggestions. Now I can get back to the project! regards, Matthew. |
| vtsteam:
Must feel good to know you've fixed a problem, done it right, and that it is what it is supposed to be. There is satisfaction in that, even though you wanted to move on. It's a good tool you've made, and are making. :thumbup: :clap: |
| mattinker:
Thanks VT, yes it's nice to have saved the project, to get it right when it was well off the rails! I'm looking forward to being able to use it. Regards, Matthew |
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