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| mattinker:
Now that I've established that the diameter of the spindle is final it's time to make the chuck mounting. I found this drawing on the web sometime ago, I don't know where I got it from, there was no signature. If it's a no no, I'll take it down with pleasure! I thought it might be usefull to somebody that has a Compact 8 To get a rough position for the top-slide, I G clamped a piece of 15mm x 15mm cold rolled to the side of the top-slide, and wound in the cross-slide. I couldn't see any light between the cone and the CRS. The method for finally setting the topslide came from John, Double Boost. The bolts holding the top-slide are nipped up lightly, the dial gauge is mounted to the top-slide at centre height, the top-slide is bumped gently to adjust. I got to within 1/100 of a millimetre, which I decided would be OK to start. I should have roughed it out on the Colchester, there was quite a lot to take off! Some time later. Getting nearer! Close enough to start bluing! "Muppet", it is easier if you blue the chuck rather than the shaft, that way you take off the blue and not where the blue isn't! My lathe is new, as you can see it cuts towards the spindle centre using the cross-slide. Delicately, a bit at a time. I have a little shoulder to remove from the corner. I recessed the shoulder. Closer! Ooops! I'd deliberately left it thick at large diameter to allow for taking too much of the cone! I'm not going to show you all the bluing, it's too monotonous! Now we're getting somewhere! The finish is better than it looks! A clean up with emery-cloth, coarse and fine, Knocking of the sharp bits. That's it for tonight, regards, Matthew |
| mattinker:
Hi, The split cotter. The cotter is removed from the bore. Cut in two. A piece of 18mm CRS round is chucked up, trued up and faced off. Centre bored. Drilled 5mm and tapped M6 Sawn off, I still haven't got around to making a parting tool holder! Faced off and the corners chamfered. The addition of a suitable piece of threaded bar. I'm out of 6mm round or a suitable bolt to make a "proper" stud! I have neither an Ebonite ball as per the instructions, nor a ball turning attachment but I do have a ball bearing that I've softened by putting it in the barbecue (heating red hot) and leaving it to cool slowly in the ashes. Turning a small flat on the ball. Centre drilling. Drill 5mm tapping size for 6mm. As the hole is short, I ground the point off a machine tap to make it a bottoming tap. Tapping the ball. Tapped! As I haven't got any 6mm round, I used a piece of 7mm, turning it down to 6mm and chamfering the end. Threading with a 6mm die. I had forgotten just how worn that die is, I had to put it on backwards to finish the thread. Not a pretty sight, but it should hold the ball! The other end I threaded 7mm, a size that isn't common even hear in the heart of Metric France! Bad planning, I could have done both ends 7mms! Cleaned up ready to install. With the split cotter now in place, the "closer" is screwed in and tightened by hand to establish where the position of the lever. Marked with a scribe. A 7mm flat is milled on the side. Kieth Fenner demonstrates this method in his Shafting video (youtube). When the milled surface is square, you "eyeball" the milling tool so that it's in the centre. Centre drilled. Drilled 6mm, Tapped M7. The completed split cotter and it's handle. That's it for now , regards, Matthew |
| vtsteam:
Looking good Matt! :thumbup: |
| krv3000:
thats cuming on nice a bit of topic have you got the travalnshons ofing stedy for your lathe if so can you do a diagram ofit so i can mack one for my lath |
| mattinker:
--- Quote from: krv3000 on October 07, 2013, 03:11:22 PM ---thats cuming on nice a bit of topic have you got the travalnshons ofing stedy for your lathe if so can you do a diagram ofit so i can mack one for my lath --- End quote --- Thanks KRV. Sorry, I can't help with either kind of steady for your lathe. Regards, Matthew |
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