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| mattinker:
Thanks John, at least, of all the things that could have gone wrong, that's the easiest thing to correct. I just have to make sure that I never go without checking, measuring the cut when so close to the end! Over confident! regards, Matthew |
| Chuck in E. TN:
Mathew, Don't give up! You're doing great. I'm watching your build closely as I hope to make the same DH. Bought the book, followed John's build and following yours. I'm still at the point of building my foundry to make the casting, so am way behind you and John. Chuck |
| mattinker:
Chuck, thanks for the encouragement, I never even thought about giving up! Regards, Matthew |
| vtsteam:
Matt, just a point of interest about the Gingery boring bar gauge in case anyone reading wants to make one -- I was just looking again at your picture and noticed that you are using the head of a bolt for contact with the feeler and cutter. I think the original used the other end of the bolt, rounded slightly to give a distinct contact point for the feeler gauge and cutter for highest accuracy. However that assumed a square cutter, as shown in the Gingery lathe book, which couldn't rotate in the square hole filed into the boring bar. With a round cutter in a round hole which might rotate slightly during adjustment, I guess you need a flat end for the gauge anvil. If so, It might help to keep the flat as small as possible, though -- it doesn't have to be a greater diameter than the cutter is. It would probably be helpful to machine that flat to make sure it absolutely square and smooth with the bolt axis. Bolts on this side of the pond have raised letters and grade symbols formed on the top of the head, and you'd want that off, and the surface to be really true as well, since you rotate it to make an adjustment. Half a thou difference side to side in the bolt head could mean half a thou difference in depth of cut. |
| PekkaNF:
How about flat/domed point set screw for adjustement screw? PekkaNF |
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