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Dividing head

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mattinker:  Krv, plodding along! By multiplying my gear potential by three, I'm also multiplying the gear mounting bits by three! So I'm plodding along! Quit a lot of little bits to go. All the best, Matthew

mattinker: Hi, I realise from the number of photos that I just uploaded to Botophucket (dyslexia rules!) that I haven't updated in a while. In addition, I've decided to make it  so that I can use three different sets of gears. Two disadvantages,:- I. I can't drill for a draw bar to enable me to use a Morse taper which could have been useful. II. I have a lot more little parts to make! So here it is, starting with the gear carriers. The top slide on the lathe still being  set up with the taper (about 20°) it's a good place to start. By turning the end of the 17mmØ down to 14mm and flipping it round, I could then cut the taper in the same direction as it was cut on the inside of the spindle. Cutting the M14 thread. I made four as who knows what gears might turn up in the future! Three blanks plus the one that I already  reduced to 14mm. I set the spindle up in the fixed steady to use it as a mandrel to reduce the ends of the carriers and to drill and tap to M8 for the gear retaining bolt. The 12mm carrier test with a plastic gear! With the spindle once again set up in the dividing head, I centred with a centre finder and centre drilled for an M6 thread. Without moving the setup, I drilled all of the carriers 5mm . Tapping the spindle M6. The drive belts arrived today, now I can use that nice precise little three jaw and the power feed again! In addition, I can use my ER32 collets, handy when shortening and reducing grub screws. Grubscrew, now there will be two Allen key sizes  on the dividing head. The finished product, just needs deburring. I forgot to take pictures of cutting the keyways. I was nervous, having never cut 3 and 4mm keyways with a 2mm slot drill before, my mill seems enormous with that tiny little end mill in it! No problems encountered! All three of the key-ways are different! This is the Emco one which is four mm wide. Milling the keys to size. The three carriers finished with their respective gears and keys. I may soft solder the keys in place so that they don't get lost. With the gear carriers done, I can get on with the Banjo. Spot the mistake! Carving out the slots. The set up is flawed, having not tried to cut slots this way before, I hadn't thought about the fact that I was squeezing up on an area that I was removing metal from! The Banjo gently started to rise in the vice, no damage, but another reminder about how to set up! The slots are finished, Al that the Banjo needs is a clean up and chamfer. I'll be back later, I'm not even half way through the photos that I've taken! Regards, Matthew

mattinker: Hi, the next chapter is the plunger assembly. A piece of 25mm cold rolled is reduced to 12mm over a length of 20mm. Drilled 6.75mm, tapping size for M8 and tapped  to a depth of 25mm. This allows fixing in either slot of the banjo. The centre is found and a centre hole drilled. Pilot drilled. Drilled 14mm, tapping size for M16, a flat is milled to allow the plunger to seat ot 90°s to it's support. Tapped M16. A second flat is machined on the other side an the circular portion that had been supporting the end turned off in the lathe. In position on the Banjo. Plunger body, reduced and threaded M16. Shoulder turned at the end of the thread to allow to seat on it's support. Drilled through 7mm. Setting up square to correct an error! The flats were not parallel, I was asking too much of my collets. Re-milling the lower flat. I haven't got a 10mm reamer yet, so I used a 10mm Slot Drill to drill the larger diameter in the plunger housing. Centre drilling and drilling an annealed ball bearing to make the handle for the plunger. Centre drilling a piece of 12mm cold rolled to make the plunger. First opperation, reduced to 6mm in diameter and threaded M6 to accept the ball bearing. Preparing to reduce the plunger to 7mm and 10mm diameters. 7mm Spring winding, thanks Tom Griffin for your recent video contribution! I ended up making 3 mandrels, the first, 7mm, produced a spring that was nearly twice the mandrel diameter, A 4mm one was well undersized, a 6mm would have been best, but I made a 5mm mandrel as I had some 5mm in stock. I had to open up the coils slightly by hand. I got good results from 6thenths of a mm piano wire. Plunger with it's spring. Milling the plunger point. I used a 17mmØ mill, which was as rear as I could get to the radius of the gear teeth. The fit is reasonable, especially bearing in mind that the radii change with the diameter of the gears. Plunger assembly nearly finished. Lining up the plunger body to slot the guide. Slotting the plunger. Dialling in the plunder to drill for the pin at right angles to the point. Centre drilling the plunger. Drilling plunger, 2.5mm. In place on the lathe. Drilling the spindle. Final drilling. The chuck in place, one of those nice moments! Nearly finished! To be continued. Regards, Matthew

doubleboost: Very nice Well documented and photographed John

mattinker: --- Quote from: doubleboost on November 12, 2013, 03:23:40 PM ---Very nice Well documented and photographed John --- End quote --- Thanks John, I wasn't sure whether or not I'm putting too much detail in! Regards, Matthew

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