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Labeling Wires and Cables |
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John Stevenson:
In a previous life when I used to work on Rolls Royce Merlins [ big huff and puff and pull myself up to me full hight of 5'10", {used to be 6' 1" before decimalisation }] :wave: We used to use yellow rubber ferrules that had the legend hand written in Indian ink by various ladies in a very broad sense of the word. This was in an era when Ross Courtney terminals flourished. and no he wasn't an author or bred race horses. |
z3t4:
I've just finished re-wiring an old Land Rover and found exactly the same problem. The clip-on labels are no use, unless you constrain them either side with heatshrink (otherwise they just slide axially into oblivion). Laser-print under transparent heatshrink sometimes works, usually doesn't. In the end I used an ordinary Brother hand-held tape printer set for small print, with the tape making roughly a 'P' shape around the cable; the cable in the circle of the 'P' with the print on the tab formed by the limb of the 'P'. The end result looks a lot like that in AndyF's linky. It's oil-proof, waterproof and cheap. |
Pete W.:
--- Quote from: John Stevenson on July 22, 2013, 04:56:49 PM --- SNIP This was in an era when Ross Courtney terminals flourished. and no he wasn't an author or bred race horses. --- End quote --- They'd still flourish here if I knew where to get them (in small quantities). :scratch: :scratch: :scratch: The modern crimp-on terminals are OK for some applications but they don't leave much room in, say, the terminal chamber of a 1/2 HP lathe motor. :bang: :bang: :bang: Ross Courtney must have been a diverse outfit - I still have a Ross Courtney hydraulic jack (only surviving part of the kit of the Alvis TA14 on which I learned to drive). I understand that it uses leather seals, I wonder if they're still available? |
PekkaNF:
I have seen several ones, but only durable one I have seen is Partex PA Use mix of: http://www.partexmarker.com/pa.html and: http://www.partexmarker.com/paginated.html Tool for insertting: http://www.partexmarker.com/applicators.html Don't use the clip-ons, they will slip when you have bunch of cables unistalled and you need it least. There is also an accessory - sort of tie wrap - to use the same markkers for cables. Best system I know has a cable label and then separate wire "number" that is cross-referenced with drawings. Trying to code information on wire number works only on small system that is hardly never updated or maintained, othervice legend gets too long and confusing. PekkaNF |
Mayhem:
May not be of use on smaller wires, but I use to run a DJ & Lighting business and all my cables were labelled using the following technique: 1. a length of coloured heat shrink was applied first (colour designated cable length) 2. a label was applied (smaller length than the coloured heat shrink) 3. with the exception of the text on the label, the remainder of the label, the coloured heat shrink and a 1/4" of cable each side were painted with vulcinizing fluid (puncture repair glue). 4. a length of clear heat shrink was then applied This resulted in a very hard wearing label that remained legible. |
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