Author Topic: Faceplate sanding disc.  (Read 10571 times)

Offline DickDastardly40

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Faceplate sanding disc.
« on: March 11, 2009, 02:13:56 PM »
Take one 7" disc of plywood

Drill 8 holes to the pitch of the slots on your faceplate not quite through

Adjust for length 8 suitable wood screws and find some suitable spacers in this case nuts and washers

Screw disc to face plate

Skim edge and face lightly to true up

Stick on some abrasive paper with spray mount and trim edge


Yet to make, a work surface.

Offline John Hill

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Re: Faceplate sanding disc.
« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2009, 05:04:26 PM »
They are going to be right onto you Dick for allowing abarasives near your lathe!

I am only mildly paranoid on the subject but I do believe in taking precautions and I have been warned NOT to lay a cloth over the ways to protect them, the danger is that the cloth could be picked up in the machinery and maybe drag a hand in with it,  ouch!  I suppose newspaper would be OK and you could hold it in place with magnets.  Mr Sparey (?) author of the amateur lathe users Bible (c 195x ?) says to use damp rags.

BTW, does anyone know if a lathe coolant system is likely to recirculate abrasive particles?
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bogstandard

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Re: Faceplate sanding disc.
« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2009, 07:13:11 PM »
Al,

Nice post.

It wasn't long ago that metalworking machines were sold as dual fuel. They could be used with both wood and metal, with the ones designed to handle metal as well, having ball raced bearings to take the extra speed.

I personally have no issue about using abrasives on a lathe, as long as the bed is protected as well as possible. I use a toolpost grinder, which I am sure will bang off a lot more abrasive than a sanding disc. Some people go way over the top and won't even allow a bit of emery near a lathe, quoting that it will remove x amount of material from the lathe bed at each operation. All I can say is that they are talking thru their a**e. Those sorts of people need to get into the real world, and stop polishing and start using their machinery. Without having abrasives near a lathe, most manual production shops would soon go out of business.
It is all to do with common sense, if you don't have any of that, you shouldn't be using machinery anyway.


With regards to your question John.

Lathe coolant systems usually work with an impeller type centrifugal pump, and will quite merrily pump anything that is put into it. I used to work with one that pumped hot liquid solder.

To prevent contaminants being pumped about, usually you have a couple of good quality fine mesh filters in the line from the lathe drip tray, and the last stage is to send the liquid to trickle over a barrier plate that allows solids to settle out before reaching the pump sump. That is why you should always have a regular regime where the filters and settlement tank are cleaned out. Your pump should be like mine, and it has all the necessary requirements.

John

Offline sbwhart

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Re: Faceplate sanding disc.
« Reply #3 on: March 12, 2009, 03:03:22 AM »
Good project Al:- thats a real useful bit of kit :thumbup:

Putting a magnet in the suds tank will pick up the iron bits  :headbang:

Stew
A little bit of clearance never got in the road
 :wave:

Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline John Hill

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Re: Faceplate sanding disc.
« Reply #4 on: March 12, 2009, 03:59:33 AM »
Thanks John for the practical opinion on the question of abrasives though I am rather upset that you think it is not necessary to polish my lathe!  Over the last few weeks I have managed to get all the showroom rust off and got a nice shine on all bare steel using a Scotch Brite pad and WD40/CRC.

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bogstandard

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Re: Faceplate sanding disc.
« Reply #5 on: March 12, 2009, 04:53:08 AM »
John,

This is going a bit  :offtopic: here, but you can spot them a mile off.

They only ever make tooling for their highly polished Monarchs or Hardinges', Myfords et al, and other such useless jobs that could have been done with a bit of wire and a stick, instead they take months to make something to do the job, quoting specific threads and countersink angles, surface finishes and numbers for every bit of metal they use. But never make anything useful for anything other than their own little world they live in. They think nothing of reading a 10,000 page bible, and quote everything from that, even though they have no idea about what they are on about.

As you can see, I despise people like that, they have put model engineering back many years, just by back biting and shaming newbies, to such a point that the newbie wants nothing more to do with engineering. There are times that things have to be done by the book, but it shouldn't be forced down peoples throats. There is nothing wrong at all with using your own common sense to get the job done, and most times you will succeed. As long as you and other people are safe when doing it, then stuff the book monkies and posers, and get on with it. Get your hands and machines dirty, it soon washes off.

It has been that way for thousands of years, and we are not doing too bad at it.

I had an old saying that used to be my signature.

If it looks right, feels right and runs right, then it is right.

Sorry Al, for hijacking, but now that is off my chest I feel a lot better.

John

Offline SPiN Racing

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Re: Faceplate sanding disc.
« Reply #6 on: March 12, 2009, 05:59:50 AM »
One little comment to back John (Bogs) with this one...

Most people on this forum make all sorts or really cool stuff. And some things that are very precise... BUT.... Looking at John's stuff, all his posts and vids since I got here... and I only remember a couple instances of being very specific about tolerences..  Repairing Darrens lathe.. ONLY in certain places were there critical tolerences.  And the tramming tool.  Everything else can be good as you are capable of. A few things have to be spot on. And they are mentioned specifically.

I think the US Army my best friend was part of in the desert a dozen years back must have known Bogs. He always had a quote.. "If it looks like ****.. but it works.. then it isnt." (I think thats the correct verbage.. gonna e-mail him and doublecheck)
SPiN Racing

Offline John Hill

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Re: Faceplate sanding disc.
« Reply #7 on: March 12, 2009, 02:15:11 PM »
Good comments John, I might just have a tale to tell in the smoko room but back on topic.

Dick, I think this project is one of those things that is so simple and easy to do yet the potential for its use is tremendous!  Thanks for showing it here.
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Offline DickDastardly40

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Re: Faceplate sanding disc.
« Reply #8 on: April 04, 2009, 04:34:12 AM »
Following on, I knocked up a rest at centre height out of some ply and bolted it to the saddle:



It works quite well for my purposes so far.



Al

Offline sbwhart

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Re: Faceplate sanding disc.
« Reply #9 on: April 04, 2009, 05:07:03 AM »
Nice job Al

That looks like an excentrick for some sort of engine you've got there.

 :worthless:

Lets see what your up to then.

Stew

« Last Edit: April 04, 2009, 05:08:39 AM by sbwhart »
A little bit of clearance never got in the road
 :wave:

Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline Darren

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Re: Faceplate sanding disc.
« Reply #10 on: April 04, 2009, 06:14:18 AM »
That looks very useful Al, tidy too  :thumbup:
You will find it a distinct help… if you know and look as if you know what you are doing. (IRS training manual)

bogstandard

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Re: Faceplate sanding disc.
« Reply #11 on: April 04, 2009, 06:39:27 AM »
Al,

Quote
It works quite well for my purposes so far

If it does that, then it is a job well done.

Nice one.

John

BTW, you're not holding out on us are you? I think my little eye spied something off a steam engine.
« Last Edit: April 04, 2009, 06:41:33 AM by bogstandard »

Offline DickDastardly40

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Re: Faceplate sanding disc.
« Reply #12 on: April 04, 2009, 07:57:43 AM »
I've hesitated to post regarding manufacure of my steam engine components as I didn't want to be :offtopic: