Gallery, Projects and General > How to's
Making a flywheel
<< < (6/16) > >>
bogstandard:
Glad you guys are enjoying it as much as I do. :thumbup:

Now a question for yourselves, to help me in the future.

On the last bit of this post, I showed measurements using my DRO.

To those who don't have such things, did it detract or help the post by seeing it displayed like that? or did it come across as if I was just boasting I have DRO's (that is one thing I don't want to do).

This is a rather important issue to myself, as it is very difficult to explain about putting on exact cuts using text only, and if people do find that pictures like that help, without feeling 'substandard', then it will help me a lot in explaining in future posts.

Thanks

John

sbwhart:

--- Quote from: bogstandard on March 18, 2009, 07:01:37 PM ---Glad you guys are enjoying it as much as I do. :thumbup:

To those who don't have such things, did it detract or help the post by seeing it displayed like that? or did it come across as if I was just boasting I have DRO's (that is one thing I don't want to do).

This is a rather important issue to myself, as it is very difficult to explain about putting on exact cuts using text only, and if people do find that pictures like that help, without feeling 'substandandard', then it will help me a lot in explaining in future posts.

Thanks

John


--- End quote ---

Cracking write up John  :clap: :thumbup: :clap: :thumbup: :clap:

Any one who's met you would know you havn't got a boastfull bone in your body.

A few creaky ones yes but no boastful ones.

Never used a DRO  (hoping to fit some in the near future) I understand that as well as accuracy the other advantage is that they eliminate/reduce back lash effects, and I think dealing with back lash is where a newbie will strugle.

I've only ever used dials, the way I deal with back lash.

1:- Always come on position from the same direction where posible.

2:- Zero dials where you're going to repeat moves ie 0 move 5mm move 6mm etc mark dials with coloured crayon

3:- When you have to change direction of fead to avoid climb milling again use coloured crayon to mark dials.

4:- Plan ahead do a sketch what you going to do direction of fead etc and have this andy to refer back to.

And be methodical

Cheers
 :wave:
Stew
Stilldrillin:
VERY well put Stew,  :clap:

I`ve just come back to dials & backlash, after 1/2 a lifetime spent with CNC & DRO.
It`s like being an apprentice all over again.....

Your comments mirror my thoughts exactly.   :headbang:



John,

I`m sure DRO makes the tale much easier in the telling...... Keep on keeping on mate!  :thumbup:

David.
Darren:
Hi John,

I have started to read this section a couple of times. I have to admit that it got a bit heavy going for me.

NOT, your fault, it's mine. I've been working hard outside whilst the weather has been with us and I'm very tired by the evening to concentrate properly.
This is a very involved thread and needs careful study to comprehend it properly, I will get to it... :thumbup:

As for the DRO's, carry on. I think most of us would like a similar set-up and to see it in action is very enlightening.

You do it your way, we have the  :borg: to adapt it to our equipment. Well some do, not necessarily me  :doh:

Very nice thread BTW  :ddb: :ddb: :ddb:
Bernd:
John,

Aftering working on the Grizzly mini-mill w/o DRO and then having the Bridgeport with DRO I'd say what you presented was excellent. One needs to work with what ever equipment they have at the present. If they can't figure it out than we as a collective can help out. Remember 1000 words = a picture or something like that.  :)

As far as boasting, I never thought you were boasting. You showed what can be done with a machine equiped with a DRO system and that it makes it easier. And now with our comments added here a newbie should understand that.

Keep at it John. I want to see what the finished product looks like. :thumbup:

Bernd
Navigation
Message Index
Next page
Previous page

Go to full version