The Shop > Tools

Mini Mill Drawbar Problems.

<< < (2/4) > >>

HS93:
My X1 is the same I have to change between collets chuck and boring head so it is not an option for me Ill just make shure I have hold of the chuck when I remove it after last time when the chuck shot of its taper and got my foot, I find if I just unscrew  by about a mill or two and hit it with my steelmaster hammer 16oz it normally works, I asked Arc if they had another way and they said they just smack it as well I just have to rember to take the fine feed off first.

Peter  :hammer:

sbwhart:

--- Quote from: bogstandard on March 11, 2009, 03:47:06 AM ---David,

If you don't do this, you will be knocking crap out of the quill operating system, and you will eventually damage something.


--- End quote ---

Hi David I've probably added to the confusion  :scratch:, what I ment was lock the vertical quill movement there should be a clamp to do this.

I've got M3 on my mill I chose this because I already had the tooling, when changing tools I just lightly stab the tool into the taper then nip the draw bar up finger tight, this works for most aplications, if I know I'm going to give it some welley I'll nip the draw bar up lightly with a spanner. To release I lock the vertical fead up, undo the draw bar a few turn and give it a light tap.

Hope this helps.

Stew

Stilldrillin:
John, Peter, Stew.

Very good advice from all of you.... Thank you!  :thumbup:

I wondered if a knurled 2" (?) dia hand driven, "socket spanner"  might give sufficient torque?

But, the spindle really needs supporting, during the tool ejection process.  :scratch:

There is a vertical stop clamp bracket...... Probably what it`s for, but not explained in instructions......  ::)

I really don`t like working with a lack of finesse.......

Thanks again for your ideas.  :clap:

David.

John Stevenson:
Tap the top part of the spindle with a left hand thread.
Make a new drawbar where the bit under the nuts has the same LH thread

Screw new drawbar into spindle with about 1/2" of LH thread left.

Screw collet INTO drawbar NOT drawbar into collet, as far as you can, then tighten drawbar.

You need to initially play with the settings so that you still have some LH thread exposed when tightened, you don't want the head to bottom out.

That will hold the collet as tight as you need, when you come to extract it unscrewing it will eject the collet by the action of the LH working against the RH of the collet thread. Once free then unscrew the collet and don't disturb the position of the drawbar.

Sounds long winded but it's quick, it works and you don't heen to ever use a hammer.

JS.

sbwhart:
What a Good idea John  :thumbup:  :bow:

Yes I can see how that would work very neat and tidy and with some finesse  :headbang:

I'll try Tracey tools to see if they do a suitable left hand threaded tap, we can pass it rounds the lads.

Cheers

Stew

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page