Parting tool question

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John Swift:

Hi Chuck

once you part off the last piece you could screw a stud / grub screw into the end of the bar
the knurled wheel can be mounted on the stock and wheel faced off to remove the burr

how about using a countersink ?

several years ago I repaired a EMI-MEC Sprint capstan lathe

I noticed one of the other machines used something that looked like a boring tool to cut a v groove in side of the bore in the part being made

when parted off the remains of the v grove broke the edge of the bore saving a second operation

one thing I noticed was the part off tool was very thin ( approx 0.05")
compared with the tools supplied for my C2 mini lathe

John

picclock:
Hi Chuck

I tried the angle on the end to get a clean finish on the part after I saw a youtube video (Tubal Cain ?). As always his stuff came out fine, but I had other issues. The parted surface was no longer flat, but slightly concave, and even worse I still had the burr. I think it may have to do with the blade bending sideways, although this was with a 3mm blade. The bending may be due to the edges of the tool cutting at different speeds.I just have them straight now. I think the angle was 5-10 degrees. i copied it from what I could see of the video.

If you succeed I would be interested to know how.

Best Regards

picclock

mcostello:
Excessive stickout of Your parting blade could also do that. In a previous occupation I was told something like 10% more stickout led to 33% more deflection, or something like that.

Jonny:
The only time I currently see concave is when using supposedly decent Eclipse 1/16" blades with ground relief and either ground right hand or neutral cut. No amount of sticking out will cure and highly visible the tool deflecting off right even 1/16" plunged in.

Never seen it on any other left, neutral or right hand tipped cutters but there again they are respectable brands like Iscar mainly.

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