Gallery, Projects and General > The Design Shop

revisit A1-4 Spindle nose

<< < (2/3) > >>

Swarfing:
Joe this is were i have to be careful, you are right in matching the design but unfortunately :-) this is where standards are great....Sooooooooo many to choose from :-)

The principle pattern and layout plus spigot are identical between them all, but mounting holes and pins are different. The A1-4 is a good example. The American standard shows in UNC sizes, mine is M10. An American chuck i'm sure would fit on my nose but i'm not sure a D1-4 would mount to a metric spec nose? Not owning one i can't say. I'm hoping this sort of info wall fall out on this thread. I even looked at the option of ordering chucks for from the states but by the time i add the P&P i might as well buy from here. A 6" 3 jaw will set you back above the £500 mark,  not including VAT and postage, way to rich for me. That's more than i paid for the lathe.

hopefuldave:
Hi ;Paul,
The.dimensions that matter - taper, camlock pin diameter and PCD - *are* the same wherever they're made, the.differences will be in the pins' threads and the size of the capscrews preventing the pins rotating.
I have a 60 year old English lathe, new far-eastern chuck's fit straight on!

Swarfing:
Dave it's good hear that and what i expected. Sometimes you just need to hear it from the horses mouth. This should be easier than what i'm probably expecting. The weekend i will make the plug as i have some metal for that. will need to get my hands on something to make the D1-4 mount. Should i worry too much about whether i use bright steel or something that should be hardened?

hopefuldave:
Hi Paul,
If the nose is going to get a lot of use, I'd use something hardenable, but beware dimensional changes during heat-treatment! You may need to finish the taper by grinding once hardened and tempered, so leave a thou" or so allowance and hope nothing distorts too much.
Grinding to size with a toolpost grinder will give you the certainty that all's concentric too, very light passes (a few tenths of a thou") until there's a couple if thou" gap between original spindle face and the flat back on the D1 nose, the mounting bolts' tension should then close the gap and give the right interference fit.on the A1 spindle to eliminate any problems with rigidity etc.

Then repeat and grind the taper and flat on your new D1 nose, Robert's your parent's sibling!

Pete.:
And be bloody careful when cutting the taper. If you over-shoot and cut it small on the OD you'll have to cut the mating face back four times as much to bring it back to size.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page

Go to full version